doommachine

It was pretty damn cheap, only cost about $160 to get the turbine housing + the dump pipe cleaned, prepped, and coated.

 

I think the housing by itself was about $120? But they charge by the metre for things that are basically straight pipes so it was only $40 or so for the dump pipe.

I header wrapped and exhaust painted my front pipe to keep the heat out of the oil pan but I kind of regret not making the effort to take it to get coated when I had it out of the car cause it's so cheap!

Well, I had to service the car since it had been sitting for so long, and I figure since I'm replacing the coolant I may as well pull out the turbo and get it ceramic coated since I can't install the lower heat shield.. and.. well, if it's apart why not try a new CHRA?

 

Mamba turbos (apparently the guy from Kando/Kinugawa) 11 blade billet GTX wheel + a 9 blade turbine.

 

I'll keep you all posted, I'll likely have it dyno tuned after I get it back together, rego'd, and buy some new tyres.

 

(Also thanks to Dale at Ceramic Coat Australia, he did a great job and even re-tapped the O2 sensor bung hole for me!)

Thanks guys! appreciate the feedback.

 

Is there any chance the CTS brakes are the same as HSV ones?

 

No, the spacing on HSV calipers is different. CTS-V calipers have the requisite 140mm centre to centre spacing, apparently they bolt up with zero modifications. I'm having a look on ebay and at least for the calipers in comparison to the cobalt the CTS brakes are cheaper BUT you will need massive wheels to clear . I think your goal is to have it fit under your accumulated wheels

 

I'm liking this cobalt upgrade. 296mm rotors are a fairly sane upgrade given how small the wheels are. As per the original DSMtalk thread outlander rotors also fit (And I'd assume they would have the same centre bore as the evo, just have them redrilled 4x114.3).

 

http://www.dsmtuners...s.476695/page-3

Looks sexy! Love it in silver. Good luck with sale.

So, for all interested in doing the evo 3 lsd conversion for 3 bolt VR4s (and if you have a 4 bolt with viscous), I have done a fair bit of detective work on this and I believe that these febest parts

 

http://www.ebay.com....6-/171863640353?

 

are correct for the application. I managed to luck out on ebay and scored a pair of evo 3 rear inner axle cups, and I will measure them and confirm with Febest if they are correct when they arrive. Keep your eye on this thread if you're interested.

 

Cheers all

Ring up haltech direct and see who are haltech proponents in your area. Someone who has dealt with haltech for years will do old and new stuff no problem. Even if you find someone willing to do it and it costs a little more, it will still be cheaper and less of a pain in the arse than replacing it, and the E6k is still, in my opinion, a fine ECU.

OK so just noted something interesting. I made a note of how the carrier bearing bushings were installed; when I cross ref'd them with the service manual the spacer was actually installed upside down.

I have a receipt for the carrier bearings being done, I'll let everyone know which shop it was. The 2 rear unis were fairly floppy (the middle uni I actually removed with my fingers - no pressing needed) - pretty hopeful that my diff isn't ruined and the input clunking was just the tailshaft binding.

 

To update - the diff input bolt is fine, there is no play at all on the input flange any direction. While the diff does "clunk" when turned and it feels like there is some play when the tailshaft is turned, the wheels still turn. With the handbrake on there is still the same amount of rotational play, the axles do appear to rotate ever so slightly when the tailshaft is turned.

 

But at least now the tailshaft is super tight.

Hah! Nice. Looks very similar but now I have the ralliart rims, bigger exhaust, intercooler... plus its been partially resprayed, it's slightly cleaner.

I had a look and measure at u-pullit, also checked out a bunch of service manuals (I compared the TR 4 cylinder to the 6 cylinder specs). It seems to me that the inner axle part of the V6 front CV is the same as the VR4 (not the regular galant) - so I had thought that you could disassemble the CV's and swap the outside of the TR magna axle onto the VR4 axle. Thus you get better and bigger front bearings, 5 studs, plus the 160mm brake ears...

 

Not sure if this would work, someone who has a spare VR4 front axle could have a bit of a u-pullit trip to find out hehe..

Yes, the birfield joint is the joint on the outer axle, ie, it goes into the hub, and the axle goes into it. The stub axle/ joint itself obviously has different spline counts but its possible that even though the internal splines of the specific application joint differs (ie, the part that goes on the axle shaft, and then into the joint), the joint itself is the same and can thus be adapted.

I'd prefer to retain ABS for legalities sake, even though its crap, but of course I'd rather have huge brakes. I think going this direction makes it impossible to retain it, the VR4 abs depending on year is either a 2:1 ration with an 86/43 tooth, or the later models are 43/43. I believe this has something to do with the LSD on later models?

Anyway, if you could get a later model, LSD equipped ABS computer, and swap the front and rear sensors (to get 48 teeth in the back you would need to do the 3000gt rear arm swap, or you could swap in rear hubs from a DSM with 48 teeth.)

This post details the theory behind this - > http://www.galantvr4...&page=8&fpart=1


Anyway, it's likely that I will go with a CTS-V setup so I can retain ABS easily, but I'm trying to work out a more legal way for people to upgrade to evo brembos/3kgt brakes than using an adapter. Those caliper adapters scare me, and really, my personal preference for modifications is to use OEM equipment with minimal actual modification. I just think its cooler if everything bolts up, and you gain an improvement in something without any disadvantage.

Well people have been running brembos on magnas,

http://www.aussiemag...hp/t-66818.html

Seems to not be much of an issue? I think most of the issues people have with 3kgt calipers is that they want to run 16's for some reason.

Wouldn't the prefacelift legnum calipers be VR4 2 pots anyway with different brackets?

Also I've been looking into other possibilities, for example porsche 911/964 nonturbo brembos.. 130mm bolt spacing. Also the cadillac CTS-V brembos are the same spacing, and very cheap (around 150USD each new) however they are HUUUUUUUGE, and I suspect that disc rotor choice is not easy (they are huge and I would imagine getting the right rotor height isn't simple. I haven't really decided a direction yet and it's hard to find dimensions on the internet.

Ahh what else.. oh yeah lexus LS430's have radial mount rotors which, although they still require an adapter, it's a less dodgy adapter. (Added bonus, you can play with the location of the caliper to suit a specific rotor) And those calipers are also enormous, and fairly cheap.