ChrisVR4

Hey guys,

I've got two manifolds here that are taking up shelf space.
Both in Horsham VIC. I travel to Melbourne regularly, so I can do a meet up if needed.

One is an Evo 3 stock manifold. 
Good upgrade from a stock gvr4 manifold, because they are a little bigger on the outlet to the turbo, but mainly because they dont seem to crack in the webbing like the stock vr4 manifolds.
This one has had an EGT sensor, so there is a bolt plugging the hole in one of the runners. Also has a couple of bolts broken off in the heat shield mounts.
Price $70



The other one is a used GT Pumps aftermarket manifold.
Very beefy compared to the evo and vr4 manifolds. 
I believe that it is probably the best manifold to use if you want to keep your engine bay looking standard.
it has heaps bigger runners and turbo outlet, but is a bolt on replacement.
Price $150


I am neIgotiable on price.
If anyone shows interest, I will get some pictures up ASAP.
My contact number is 0447 0440 62

Chris


 

I have K-sport coilovers in my Galant.

Try them

I'm a believer in BOV's.
Its a tricky subject, because everyone has an opinion, that they "swear by".
Do a bit of research if you think its worth your time. But don't treat any random forum info as golden. (including this. hahaha)

Last time I went down the local strip, I had just made up some new piping, and didnt have a BOV installed.
The car felt awful. It wasn't a subtle change, it was very noticeable. Like hitting a wall when I changed gears. Then wait. . . wait. . . wait, oh, there's some boost, off we go again.

I like blow-off valves.

Tried this but the 63 alternator bolt is too long, won't fit.


I finished doing the timing belt, took the car for a drive and everything seems ok. But my paranoia is now getting the better of me and I'm fighting the urge to take the front cover off again to check it's all hunky dory.

The space between tensioner arm and body should be between 3.8-4.5mm. I just managed to squeeze a 4mm allen key in there, and i could slide the pin in and out with a little bit of friction.

Just one question. Is 3.8mm a tighter belt? Or is 4.5mm a tighter belt? If i dive back in there i'd just like to know which way i should go because i suspect the belt is too tight for my liking.

I dont think the belt tension will change 'significantly' with the change in the hydro-tensioner plunger stick-out.
The idea of the hydraulic tensioner is to keep a specified tension on the belt over its life span.
I believe the 3.8-4.5mm spec is just to ensure there is enough travel-room left in the unit, to take up the belt stretch.

But 3.8mm would be the tighter side.

http://forums.evolut...-regulator.html

Cool. So It actually DOES come off haha.
My next idea was a collar with multiple teeth/arms, that slides over the hub, then twists to get under the teeth of the hub. But It just seemed too much of a task.

I'll try to get some 2 or 3 leg pullers to fit.

Cheers for the help

Chris

How'd we go with 5th gear and the sychro assembly?
I'm trying to get it off on a w5m33, and its painful.

Can anyone explain the procedure/ best tool to use? or link a picture of something?
I made up a puller set to grab the synchro hub, under the teeth, but its really fidgety to get on properly and the arm tips keep bending!
My service material skips this bit for some reason. Shows the shaft lock-nuts being taken off, then the next step already has the gears and main casing off. Very frustrated.

Road Race Engineering has some info on their site about the step height, and the figures they recommend are very tight tolerance, so if the height hasn't been set properly that could be adding to the problem.

But it sounds like the main issue might be that the clutch fork is hitting the transmission casing before completely disengaging the clutch.
If thats the case, you would need to pull the box again, and shim up the clutch fork pivot ball. . . .