mat

a few modded evos/gsr from new zealand 

http://www.trademe.c...n-956032515.htm

http://www.trademe.c...n-840851883.htm

http://www.trademe.c...n-956253384.htm

I just replaced mine with ones from meek, they are similar to the stock ones as i drive on alot of dirt roads etc so the ones tbowgn sell would have been a bit to hard (nothing negative against them as i have never used them)

anyway the rubber in the original mounts had snapped so the engine was moving around a fair bit, which to me made that car feel sluggish and not as good on cornering. the damaged mounts would also make it difficult to get into/change gears depending on how the engine was sitting at the time, if i was lucky the engine would move a little around a corner and id be able to change gears nice and easy

from my experience, if you go with stock mounts and you do them yourself you'll need access to a press and you need to be careful as they can get damaged quiet easily trying to push them in

so yes, they are important to replace if they are damaged/cracked, if there not damaged/cracked then there no real need to do it

looks nice

i can see the picture in the first post and your last post 

nice wheels, do you have any pics of your car? or are you waiting to get the wheels on first 

raised the height of the car, feels like a 4wd now which makes me sad but this sort of makes up for it 

yeah it is the plan, i already average 80km/hr on the dirt roads as it is, I dont think its possible to go much faster without it starting to be dangerous as the roads are to narrow for cars to pass in some sections and being mostly forest its hard to see around the corners but even if it helped prolong the life of the bushes would be a good start, as i dont think the bushes are doing to well at this ride height.

also if i hit that bridge at more than 5km/hr i think it would collapse lol 

hehe good luck with it 

this is my tj magna sitting in the paddock so it may be a little different to the gsr but it should give you an idea

back of brack caliper, undo the top and bottom bolt:

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only need to do the next part if you are doing the rotors:

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you shouldnt go this far, you should still have the brake line connected, this is just to show you the piston that needs to be pushed in to fit the new pads

I've seen different ways of bleeding the brakes on youtube. Can I ask how your bleeding yours? I think I'm confident enough to replace the pads and rotors on my GSR but I dont want to get the 'bleeding' part wrong...

you shouldnt have to bleed the brakes when replacing pads and rotors, unless you have another issue you are trying to sort

you only need to bleed them if you have a leak that you fixed or you disconnect a brake line which isnt necessary for pads and rotors

Is it necessary to replace the fuel filter while replacing the pump as well?...or at all for that matter?

I dont think its necessary, but if it hasnt been changed in a long time it probably wouldnt hurt

The car looks great, i think it was one i was interested in but it was too far away

I think a lot of guys have upgraded to the 4g63t, but im the same as you, just want to have a little fun without having to buy shares in the fuel company!

Anyway i asked a similar question not long ago, this is the reply i received from Dave_GSR1.8

Improving you GSR but staying incognito...

If you are after just a moderate power increase with some handling improvements in your GSR you can do this without drawing attention to yourself, these are the things you can do;

- fit a bigger rear sway bar - whitleine 20mm is one option, dials out understeer

- fit caster correction bushes to the front, these add more caster for increased dynamic camber

- fit camber adjusting bolts to front wheels for more static camber

- fit a bigger turbo back exhaust, just keep it as quiet as possible!!

- fit a bigger AFM (609 or 055), injectors (eg 510cc)

- fit a bigger turbo (16g as you have mentioned above) and set max boost to 15psi

- fit a front mount intercooler behind the standard bar (remember, incognito!!) 

- chip the ecu (eg ecm link) or fit an evo ecu, I can't remember the exact details for this second option but plenty of info in the forums 

- fit some green stuff brake pads (or do lots of research to see what else is out there)

- replace all suspension bushes not already touched

- fit a short shifter

All this should take you to around 160kw atw (give or take a little, depends on so many things) with improved handling and stopping and... most importantly... your car still looks completely stock!

looking good, keep up the good work