Dave_GSR1.8

I recently got hold of an EVO4 steering wheel and thought (as I always do) should be a straight swap into the GSR. Clearly I have not done too many mods.... LOL

Anyway, got it done and thought the following might be of minor interest (sadly this does not add kilowatts...)

1st and 2nd photos shows the issue, as the power contact ring does not exist on the EVO4 wheel.

Next few shots show the contact ring cut out and attached to the EVO4 wheel.

Final few show wheel fitted and last two show access hole without, and with, grommet fitted (for the anal retentive type, like me, this is an important detail... LOL!).

Verdict? Sooo much better than the factory wheel, and oddly satisfying to bodge up the power supply for the horn.

For an el cheapo option this is what I did - intercooler is out of a XR6.

Probably not adequate for big power but for my current situation does the job  

Good ol Team4G days are long gone.
I'm surprised some of the older blokes still check in.

A good point, I have thought a bit about this as I have watched the forum for the last few years; problem is that blokes like me come along and do stuff that was being done 15 years ago, by the time I get to do my 2 lt conversion the car will be well over 20 years old, so those older gurus don't get to see much new stuff. And whilst I try to post useful stuff when I can I usually find its all been done before so no point in adding repetitive posts on things such  as brake stoppers, EVO4 steering wheels on GSR's (LOL!), camber kits, brake upgrades, ecu upgrades etc...   

Sometimes I feel a bit guilty as I seem to take more that I can contribute, so I am always grateful for any help from those that know what they are talking about.

And yes, posters like the OP can be... bizarre...

Never mind the mounts. I want the shed!!

Seriously, great video

Ok, doing the sums

450awkw is about ==>> 603 HP awhp

If one assumes 33% awd power loss (as previously suggested in another thread) this comes to

603/.66 ==> 913hp at crank

for a 9.2 second pass, so to get into the 8's, gonna need more, so 1000hp at crank sounds about right

Re "Theree was another email/caller who claimesthat he had his clain refused due to an undiscloesd sterio upgrade

What would have been your take on that in your assessor role??."

Yes, tricky but one needs to know the full facts, if the caller had put a $2000 sound system in without telling the insurer then the insurer could claim loss of stereo not  covered because you didn't tell us, sounds bad but probably they can get away with it. 

If the stereo was a $100 special who cares... you would not stress since the excess would be more.

I think the key here is the callers "undisclosed stereo upgrade"; basically your hosed if you don't tell your insurer.

Looks good in the picture, and the motor seems to be sound.

Good one!

I do like that bonnet with the standard bar, its a shame space is so tight there!

All in all drool worthy!

So, I started on a bone stock lancer CC GSR 4g93t, and over the last few years have gone down the path of the standard bolt on mods that one can do on these cars, worked out from the forums here.

Now I never started with a plan because I was ignorant of these cars at the time, its only as I have done stuff that I have found out what you can do to them and so have only been able to work out what to do next as I have worked on the car.

Note that my particular plan is to keep the car looking as low key as possible, use the engine I have to extract as much reliable power as possible (so only going for 160kw atw), make it steer and stop and have some fun.

I am about 2/3 of the way through the mods to do this, once these are all done I have a dream to forge or convert to a 4g63, but along the way, so far, some of the things I have done have been good, some less so and so here they are (with my thoughts against each item) to look at, for people starting out and to take from them what learnings they want. Upon reflection there can't be too many of these sorts of people left, these cars are old!

- ECMLink V3Lite;

yes most definitely a good move; even with my limited experience I have been able to do some basic tuning to get it running well enough for a daily.

- Walbro 255 in tank pump

Yes and no, would not recommend a Walbro, too noisy, but definitely a required upgrade; if I had my time again I would do this, just would pick a quieter brand.

- Fuel pump wiring upgrade

Yes

- 540 cc injectors

- 609 AFM

Yes to both, lots of variety here, this is what I have chosen to support my modest power gains

- FMIC from an XR6

Ok mod, cheap, $80, no idea if a bigger FM would make a useful difference, but this fits behind the standard bar, is almost a direct bolt in and is OK for the modest power I am making. I suspect once one gets over 160 – 180 KW atw it will be a good idea to improve on this, but it does come from a car making 240KW at the flywheel (from memory), so good enough for starters.

- 3” mandrel bend turbo back exhaust

For the power I am making, and will make for the forseable future, OTT. I reckon a 2 1/2“ would have done the job and I could have saved some folding. This is one that befits from some thought.

- New polyurethane bushes throughout front, with castor correction and anti dive, with camber bolts as well.

Not so sure about this one. By the time I'd bought the front bushes, the camber bolts and had them all fitted, it would not have cost much more to get a K-MAC Suspension Camber and Caster adjuster kit. True the new bushes have tightened up the front end, and the original bushes were 20 years old, so really can't decide if this was the right thing to do. Certainly some careful thought required here as well.

- Front strut brace

Christmas present, so not complaining! When I fitted it it seemed to make a difference, as measured by the backside meter; I would do this again.

- EVO 1 enki wheels and EVO1 front brakes

Yes, Yes, Yes

- whiteline 20mm rear sway bar

Yes

- All rear suspension bushes replaced with SuperPro polyurethane items

Yes, if a weekend fun track car

No I would not do this again, as I drive the this car 20K kms a year, ride is too harsh, absolutely love it on smooth roads, anything less than that though, and it crashes, bangs and rides like it is on wagon wheels.

I think you can get rubber bushes stiffer than stock, which would be ok for me.

My advice (which is worth what you are paying for it), is if you do lots of road miles, stay with rubber bushes in the rear.

- Short shifter

Yes

- Replace all gear linkage bushes in cabin and at gearbox

Yes

- EVO1 seats

Yes, but, maybe look at later EVO model seats. The EVO1 seats are so much better than stock but still not good enough (which surprised me) when you start to throw it around.

- New carpet from Knox auto carpets

Yes

Still have to fit WB, bigger turbo, boost controller, and get a proper tune. If I have any useful thoughts on any of these I will add another post but sadly I don't get seem to get to new mods as quick as I would like, so it may be a while.

Hope this gives anyone interested some useful info.

Re "im still sitting on the line whether to do it or not...."

Tricky... here are some very rough calculations, if you get a 10% improvement, as Jack suggests, that equates to, say 385km a tank, so you are effectively saving 4 or 5 litres per tank, which is around $7or 8 a tank. Dunno what ECMLInk costs these days, but guesstimate around a grand to purchase, install, tune, maybe more, so you have to buy 140 tanks (1000/7) to make it pay... but LOL, does one think like that ?   Plus how does one resist tuning for power ('cause you can!)...

I put a 20mm Whiteline rear swaybar in on my 1.8T CC GSR, well worth it, did not touch the front swaybar though.

Understeer much reduced but, FWIW, front caster correction bushes made an equal difference as well.

Drool... 249.2KW... atw?

Re "...the best thing to cut the polycarb with is a multi-tool.  The blades are usually fine enough and the vibrating action doesn't splinter or crack the plastic."

Thats what I ended up using on my front bar when trimming it to fit my front mount, tried a few other things and that turned out to be by far the best; it didn't damage the surrounding plastic with heat etc

I put BKR6E's in, and then bought some BKR7E's thinking I would swap (as per EVL20T's advice), but I haven't yet as the 6E's seem to be working well so far. The previous plugs must have been really bad as the new plugs eliminated the miss (as hoped for) and all knock CEL's (completely unexpected but very happy!).

Not running much boost (15psi), and I've sprung another boost leak, so that may explain why the 6E's are OK.

I know its all sorted but if your interested for future reference, here is an extract from the manual that shows how to decode the ABS warning light.

I can attach that chapter of the manual if you want, let me know