Mr Gears

Hi Aldo,

 

Without searching, do you know if awd and fwd's are the same front diff PN?

FWD uses bigger shafts. 27 spline instead of 25 spline from memory. I think you will find that your magna box also has the big diff. This could add some difficulty to your conversion. You may be better off using the small diff that Aldo suggested. However, the big diff would be a nice upgrade if you can get away with it.

New products...

TPS Connector

CAS Connector

VR4 ECU Header... anyone planning a patch loom?

Thanks for your interest.

Over the years I have seen some dodgy cars and lots of confusion related to Vehicle ID.

Most of the problems stem from the Aus system being different to Japan.

If there is a specific topic here related to Vehicle ID, would someone direct me to it please.

In the meanwhile I will try to provide some information right here.

Firstly is is important do differentiate between the VIN No. and the Chassis No.

The VIN No. is located on the aluminium plate that is fixed to the firewall with rivets (Compliance Plate). The same No. is stamped on top of the passenger side strut tower. (This no. was created by Mitsubishi Australia for the Dept. of Transport or vice versa?)

The Chassis No. is stamped on the firewall above the master cyl. (This No. was stamped at the factory in Japan)

For Australian delivered vehicles the VIN No. and The Chassis No. will not match.

Imported vehicles the Vin No. and Chassis No. do match.

If you are buying a used car it is important to realise that the ID plates can be swapped BUT the Chassis No. should match the vehicle description.

This is not a complete list, just the Sedans relevant to our market.

Chassis - VIN - Model

CB2A - CC1 - CC Lancer 4G15 Sed.

CB5A - CC5 - CC Lancer 4G93 Sed.

CD5A - CC7 - CC Lancer GSR 1.8T AWD 4 Dr Sed.

CD9A - CD9A - Lancer EVO1

CE9A - CE9A - Lancer EVO2/3

PS. For those of you that think that you can attach Aus build and compliance plates to a race rally import EVO and the Authorities don't know what the Chassis No. should be.... guess again.

http://www.rms.nsw.g...ta/pdf/9189.pdf

Conclusion, If you are a looking to buy a GSR or EVO type of thing here in Australia, then you need to be able to decide if what you are presented with is worth buying. There are 6 types of cars.

1. Genuine EVO. This is only available as a personal import (yellow plate). May not be registrable in all states and territories. This is the most valuable.

2. Genuine EVO - Reshell, Victoria had a scheme where you could rebody a car that you own with REP type chasis No. As above, not registrable in all states.

3. Genuine EVO - With Number Job. Is an EVO, but registered as a GSR. Chassis No. will not match VIN or Chassis No has been cut out and welded in.

4. Genuine EVO - With Number Job. Is an EVO, but registered as a CC FWD. This is the worst type as it needs to be engineered. You wont get an engineers report cause the main mods are the Vehicle ID numbers.

5. Replica EVO - GSR converted to EVO spec. This is the best type. No engineers report needed for the 2.0L engine conversion.

6. Replica EVO - CC FWD converted to EVO spec. Some of these are very good (especially the ones that I built). If it is engineered there should be no problems. Would not be worth as much as a converted GSR.

Based in Western Sydney. Brand new Aftermarket connectors, terminals and seals. Check it out if you are interested in this sort of thing.

https://sites.google...sterconnectors/

When you drive until the countershaft completely drops, you will need another gearbox. There is too much damage.

That center diff is toast. I would save that until its the last one in the world before attempting to clean up any of it. (the damage would be caused by mismatch ratio, VCU will also be fried hence black oil). 

It looks to me like you have a VR4 gearset or some combination of. This can happen (I sometimes mix things up a bit myself).

Actually I have documented a common W5M33 failure, that will confirm the same damage as yours.

http://mrgears.50webs.com/VR4.htm

I would stop buying parts and start looking for another gearbox - Be sure to confirm your Final Drive Ratio. 

Ok... so the plot thickens...
If I start the car in 1st, it changes gears fine, and clutch disengages properly. However if I start it in any other gear (or neutral) it feels like the clutch isn't fully disengaging (i.e. revs drop when in gear and the car crawls forward) and it won't go into 1st at all (feels like something is blocking it) or reverse (just grinds when I try reverse).

This has me really stumped.

Oh and the master and slave (did have a slight leak but i got a new one) are fine... no leaks.