dsm2evo

Update, Hope you like pictures!

 

well finally got the car on the road just in time for winter, so decided to bust out the camera and go grab some shots. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope you liked the pics!

No protons are not a thing in canada, sad because I'd love to own a proton jumbuck, I'd also wouldn't mind a Mitsubishi Lancer wagon both are really cool vehicles we never got.

So good and bad update today.

First the bad,

The cars power steering rack decided it hates life and is leaking again, as well as my front main seal, turbo drain and I think my trans is leaking from a possible crack. Car will be getting looked at as soon as my buddies eclipse is finished in the paint booth.

Onto the good,

ECM link was ordered and should be here Monday, turbo plans have changed and I have decided to keep the holset for my talon and run a bolt on upgrade for the Evo instead. This time I will be running a gt3076r that has a Mitsubishi hotside. I have talked to a few knowledgable people in the DSM community about the turbo I have and they said it's very capable of hitting my goals for the car and all I need to worry about now with my setup is my pump fuel ( never checked to see what's actually in the car it's just super loud like a Wally 255) . I have also found a Mitsubishi valve cover, all the proper badging for the back of the car , and the decals for the side. Once I finally have the car mechanically sound it will be off to paint hopefully in the spring.

Well well well...so you actually have not done the complete job after all. I'll be fucked.......Not such a dumb statement after all it seems.

not sure if your just giving me a hard time or being an ass but I don't recall saying anything on this thread was a dumb comment or statement but yes it seems I may have missed a few thing but that is also why I'm sitting here asking what else it could be. I know I don't know everything but I was fairly confident that I had addressed the main issues as to where slop would normally occur.

You got any spare sets? What did you do with your damaged set?

I still got it, but I have to hold onto until the PayPal dispute is over and done with. If I still got them by then there yours if ya want them haha

Well we arent mind readers are we.....
You would seal them as per factory....if they have silicone you use that...if not...do as the factory do....that would be the most obvious train of thought? Would it not??

Lol yes that would however usually parts that require some sort of seal also come with said seal . Like when was the last time you bought a water pump, oil pump, water tube, or even a throttle body that didn't already come packaged with a means to seal it? Personally I have never experienced that and was always supplied with something. Even my cheap eBay manifolds came with some gaskets. So that's why the whole question is being posed I want it done properly and so it doesn't leak and I have to pull my dash a third time to fix it.

Hoses for what?
Bong??
Watering garden??
Washing the dog??

fixed, although I dont really know any other part on a car called a matrix besides the heater matrix

 

also for reference,

 

http://www.viamoto.c...ishi EVO 1 CD9A

I figured my last update post was kinda lazy because I was pretty tired so this time I will add the pics I never did.

 

here is the motor I had picked up, its out of a 99 GSX so its the 7 bolt you want to have with the revised thrust bearings.

 

 

Here I am just putting on the front case / oil pump gasket, you can also notice that it is re lubed with nice red bearing assembly lube.

 

 

new case and front main seal good to go.

 

 

different view.

 

 

Water pump on.

 

 

We got a bit of a time warp here but you can see that the girdle splash guard, oil pickup tube, hydraulic tensioner, oil filter housing, and motor mount bracket/ tension arm is now installed.

 

 

another view.

 

 

And I had also had the oil pan on as well and it was at that point I noticed the gash in the mating surface for the head.

 

 

so as of right now the motor is once again completely stripped and sitting in a machine shop, hope to have it back on on the 15th of December. 

 

I also managed to retrofit a 1999 Mitsubishi GSX radiator into my car, all that needs to be changed is I needed the GSX rad hoses, upper water neck, and had to make a set of upper radiator brackets but she fits pretty nicely!

 

 

I am still waiting for my valve seals to show up but those should be here in between Monday to Wednesday so I should have my head back fairly shortly. I also Picked up my copper heater matrix pipes and those should be in before my block is back. All that will be left after that is I need is my block and I can start re assembly! I am getting excited to get the car all buttoned up I have always wanted an evo and now that its almost finished I am starting to realize that dream actually came true.  

Well I am a little past a month since the last update so here is whats new,

 

After purchasing the new motor I Disassembled it to re lube the bearings, upon doing this I noticed some scoring on one of the cylinder walls and managed to track it down to a cracked piston ring from poor installation. After seeing that I ordered a new ring set and re did all the end gaps.

 

With that out of the way I then continued to Re assemble the motor but soon realized I had a bit of an issue. The previous owner had installed ARP main bolts which is great and all but I did not know what torque spec they used when they had it line honed. A bit on the fence I decided to torque it down to what ARP recommends Hoping that any reputable shop would do the same.

 

Motor finally nearly completed with all accessories awaiting the head to come back from the machine shop I discover that a new gash had appeared on the heads mating surface on the block, still unsure how this could have happened as it has been very well stored and out of the way from anything ( so I had thought ) . Realizing that now it is the best time to kill two birds with one stone I re disassemble the entire motor for a 2nd time to have the head surface decked, and get the mains line bore honed. 

 

So as of right now I am currently waiting on the following,  Ordered valve stem seals, waiting on the head from the machine shop but they cant finish until the valve seals show up, Ordered Authentic HKS SSQV to match the HKS intercooler pipes, Ordered brass heater core pipes to replace my cracked plastic ones, Waiting on the block to be re machined and for me to re assemble it again, finish debating if I should order the Cusco motor mounts or not.

My evo is a 7 bolt but my talon is a 6 bolt. I'm just getting the head and putting the parts on my evo .

With that out of the way we can now take off a few electrical connectors but first we need to remove another trim piece. Get your trim removal tool and gently pop out your rear wiper button trim. 

 

 

Then simply unhook the connector. 

 

 

Now you will to unplug the folding mirror button, I couldn't get a good picture but just reach your hand behind the dash and unplug it.

 

 

Now we will unscrew the speaker that's above your gas pedal leg, just two screws holding it in place and it will pop out and you will see a connector that needs to be removed. 

 

 

Now looking through the hole where the speaker used to be you should see a relay box and a bunch of electrical connectors, we only need to unhook 2. I took two pictures one showing the connectors attached and one with them unhooked so you could see the difference. 

 

 

 

Next up is the gauge cluster, to do this you will need to remove a piece of trim being held in by two screws. Undo those  then drop your steering wheel and gently pull forward and it should pop out.

 

 

With that out of the way you will now see 4 screws holding in the cluster take those out and the cluster will be free. You will need to do a bit of maneuvering to get it out but be careful and take your time and you should be ok.

 

 

Now you will see two plugs and your speedo cable, you will want to push the two tabs holding the speedo cable towards each other and it will pop forward.

 

 

With that done now you will wand to grab these speedo cable in one hand and the piece with the tabs in the other and push it back it will release it from the cable if done properly. 

 

 

Now with the two electrical pieces all you need to do is push the little tab marked in red to the left and they should pop out of place.

 

 

after that just push them behind the dash and you should get something like this.

 

 

 

Now with your trim removal tool take off the vents by your A-pillar, pry gently and pull towards you they should pop out. There will be a 10mm bolt hiding behind it, Yup time to bust out that ratchet! Oh and the extensions haha.

 

 

 

 

Next down by the speaker we removed is another 10mm bolt that needs to go, and another by your clutch pedal leg along with a screw right above it. 

 

 

Next we will head back to the spot where your stereo used to be, there is two more 10mm bolts to come out.

 

 

Now you will need to open your glove box, and push inwards on the two sides to release it and let it hang. This will uncover a hidden 10mm bolt and a screw that needs to be removed. 

 

 

You will need to locate this wire behind the dash and unplug it, it was a real pain to unplug just a FYI.

 

 

Above the passenger side kick pannel you will see another 10mm bolt that needs to be removed.

 

 

With that bolt out your dash should finally be free just give it a gentle tug towards the rear seats and it should come loose.

 

 

Head back to the drivers side and remove 3 screws from the underside of the steering wheel cover.

 

 

Underneath you will now see two bolts holding up the steering column these are 12mm remove these and it will give you a bit extra room to get the dash out. There are also two more further back but removing these is not recommended and thus optional by you.

 

 

And now with a little patience, wiggling you should be looking like this!

 

 

 

I hope you guys liked the write up it took a full 12 hours to complete because I had to re install my dash and take it all back out to document it for you guys then re install it again xD. If I missed something or you have pics that I can add for the center console please let me know! 

 

Hey guys figured I would try to contribute a little something. When I first acquired my Evo there was one big problem with it and that was the heater core needed to be replaced. Now while the heater core it self is not a big problem nor is it expensive taking out the dash for most people is a pretty big pain. So I decided to help walk you guys through it! 

 

First off here are the tools you will need:

 

long Phillips head screw driver

Stubby Phillips head screw driver

3/8 Ratchet

10mm socket

12mm socket

Two 6" extensions

and a Trim removal tool ( you can substitute for a flat head but after using one of these bad boys you will never do that again )

 

 

Now first we will take off the shifter, just run to the left and she should unscrew.

 

 

Now take we are going to remove a hidden screw under a cap, you will use your trim mover to gently pop the cap off. This is the cap I am referring to.

 

 

And just like that a wild screw appeared!

 

 

Next we will take out the screw in the center console, Unfortunately mine does not have anything inside like it should so I dont know if it just has a pull out inner casing or if it screw so you will need to figure that part out yourself but once that's out you should see these two screws that you will use longer screw driver to remove. 

 

 

With these out its almost time to remove the console, just have to undo one electrical connector for your intercooler spray bar.

 

 

With the console now out of the way you will now be able to find 2 more screws holding down your shifter trim.

 

 

Now at the front of the shifter trim there is another cover that needs to be removed, again use the trim removal tool and gently pry it up.

 

 

 

With that out of the way it will now reveal 2 more hidden screws to remove.

 

 

Now if we go the side of panel by your clutch pedal you will see another screw holding it in, there is another one in the same spot on the passenger side these both need to be removed.

 

 

 

With that out of the way you should now be left with something like this.

 

 

Next we will remove the stereo trim, to do this we will start by opening the cup holder, removing the ash tray and then remove two screws under the heater controls.

 

 

 

After that we will take out trim removal tool and starting at the top right hand side we will gently pry and pop it out working in a counter clockwise rotation. Reason for this is you have a greater chance for breaking the trim if done in the other direction as there is less plastic on the bottom and more holding force up top.

 

 

Ok now for a bit of a tricky part, you will need to disconnect the cable that opens your vents. To do this you will first need to remove the panel under your steering wheel. On the bottom right of the panel you will see two screws that need to be removed. 

 

 

On the right side of this panel you will see two more screws to be removed.

 

 

after these have been removed you should now be able to pop off the panel, now you can access the cable you need to remove. You will need to look under the dash towards your heater, just upwards and left of the clutch pedal. you should see a cable attached to the heater unit just simply pop it off.

 

 

Now all that should be holding the trim up is a few wire connectors and a vac line, two up top and a few for the gauges. 

 

Top 2

 

Gauges and vac line

 

now the stereo trim should be completely free and pull away, next we will remove the stereo. This may be different for you if you have a double din but this should work for most single din decks. There will be four screws holding the deck in place.

 

 

Now on the back side of the deck you will need to remove the antenna wire, wiring harness and if you have your other inputs ( marked in yellow ) remove those too.

 

 

We will now remove the cup holder, all that's holding it in is two screws.

 

 

 

 

Next up is unplugging the Cigarette lighter just twist the small light out of its socket and then unplug the wires running to it.

 

 

next we will undo the heater controls. Only two screws need to be removed the ones circled in green can stay attached as the heater control unit will come out with the dash no problem. Don't forget to remove the two electrical plugs behind the controls I couldnt get my camera behind it but you should be able to feel them. To do that just use your monkey arm powers and reach behind and unplug them.

 

 

 

 

 

You might even find it easier to follow that cable down to the footwell area...seeing as you already have all that part removed....and disconnect it from that end?

Just want to say thanks to everybody to has replied to this thread, You guys rock! Also would like to thank evo-gsr for this small tidbit of info. This is exactly what was holding the dash up and as soon as I released it from the bottom the dash fell right off. 

 

again thanks everyone !

thanks I will have to try that tomorrow after work, and the dash is coming out for a few reasons. The stupid heater core plastic pipe broke when trying to remove the heater hose in the engine bay so I need to replace either the entire heater core or see if I can track down some new plastic  or preferably metal tubes to bolt onto the core. The other reason is I am ripping out all the interior and giving it a stern cleaning cause there is some sort of funny odor in the car and I cant get it to go away haha. Also need to track down some interior door panels, and new seats all around ( stock ) as these stockers are all torn up. May see about having them re upholstered.