Ross Cox

G'day. There is a sweet spot in the travel of the clutch pedal where everything seems to fall together, it involved getting upside down where the shaft from the clutch master cylinder joins the clutch pedal. You loosen the locknut and rotate the clevis on the shaft, after removing the clrvis pin, to adjust the length of the shaft to allow the interior parts of the master cylinder to go back to the rest position. Sometime it can be only a small amount of movement, sometimes not. There is also a stop adjuster that governs the clutch pedal height from the floor. I will post a page from the manual in a few minutes.

Album: VR4 Info

1 images

0 comments

I have used a scissors jack behind the block positioned about the starter motor and just squeezed the block forward a bit. I generally have the radiator out.

Trolley jack under gearbox and a bottle jack under the block. There seems to be a combination of angles and it slides right in.

Cheers

Ross

This bloke has the right idea!!

Greg Latham @ Brakes Direct in Hendra, Brisbane.

http://brakesdirect....au/aus/contacts

Tell him I sent you, please. Ross Cox

I use his Forza pads in my rally car, but they are excellent on the road.

Cheers

Ross

G'day. I am not being a smartarse. Is the noise coming form the starter motor not the IAC. The starter is under the throttle body, and a low battery voltage will make the solenoid click. Cheers

Ross

G'day I use Hard Driver filters on my rally VR4. http://parkerperform...te/html/oil.htm

They are the same height as genuine, but fatter. More surface area to the filter medium.

Never had a loosening problem. Seat the filter plus 1/4 turn.

Cheers

Ross

M149750D Mitsubishi. this one was 95 amp.

MXA226 Ashdown Ingram, yup 75, Sorry.

MD133171 American site yup 75, Sorry.

BXM1210 Bosch part yup 75, Sorry.

Maroon? From a J-spec VR4?


Or galant GSR doors? You know they wont fit right?!

Have a look, hope you enjoy.

Cheers

Ross

White smoke -coolant maybe? Does the smoke smell?

Check the spark plug condition and gaps just to be sure they are nice and clean for its first startup in a while. 

Disconnect the crank angle sensor and turn the key for a while letting the engine crank over without spark (say about 30 seconds for 3 x 10 second runs).

Let the internal rotating assemblies, cams, lifters etc get some oil pressure and lubrication up first. Check the fuel pressure if you have a gauge on the FPR as well.

Once you've done with the pre-start stuff, plug the CAS back in and fire it up.

Don't agree with the cranking. He would be much better starting the car. You do not get full pressure cold cranking an engine. IMHO. My rally engine I rebuilt in 2013, has done maybe 1500 klms of competition, starts from cold or hot with no exhaust smoke fumes at all. I started it straight away from second build, spun a bearing from first build, and drove it easy for about 30 klms, then drove it like I stole it, two oil changes in first 150klms. Penrite run-in oil first up and the Penrite 10/10ths 10-W40 since then. Cheers

Ross

G'day. Looking for an entry fee paying co-driver for rest of 2015 and 2016 season. I am a really demanding bastard, I abuse my co-drivers mercilessly and have been known to knock them out if they make a mistake. I have belted nails through the co-drivers seat to help them stay in the car. If you like hot coffee being poured down your neck when it is 40 degrees in the car or your suit filled with ice at Woodenbong please contact me. Cheers.
Ross Cox

G'day. Check the bracket that holds the cables on the gearbox. It may be bent where the cable that selects the actual gears goes through. If you need a pic.

http://www.partsbase...eedometer-gear/

Part number 23901.

Or the actual levers at the end of the cable. One of those may be bent.

http://www.ebay.com....=item4aeae352c9

Bracket and levers are in this pic.

Cheers Ross

G'day

Second stage SR Automotive Rally.

Mikayla's first 'off'.

Cheers

Ross