razza

Clean! Nice to see you on here razza...

Good power!!! Surprised that the heavy duty clutch holds up! Mine died at about 160 kW at the wheels.

How did you get the 2x internal fuel pumps with different flow rates to work?

Thanks Baz. Yeah clutch seems to hold up fine. Will see how she goes after next dyno tune!

The two fuel pumps was a stuff-up sorry. Have amended the list

Heres a bit of a rundown on my Galant VR4 Evolution. Its a weekend toy and has less than 140,000km on it. Ive recently upgraded the throttle body and intercooler so need to have the car retuned. Power listed below is before the throttle body and intercooler upgrade. I have also recently ordered an Aquamist water methanol system for when the car is retuned.

Engine:

Mahle Pistons - 8.5:1 compression

Aftermarket rods - unknown brand

ARP head studs 
Cometic head gasket 
Kelford TX272 camshafts
Tomei adjustable cam gears
Supertech dual valve springs with titanium retainers 

Induction / Exhaust system: 
Forced Performance FP3582R ball bearing Mitsubishi boltup turbo 
Forced Performance cast exhaust manifold

Forced Performance downpipe with external wastegate recirculation

S90 70mm throttle body

JMF race intake manifold 

90mm PWR intercooler

2.5" alloy intercooler piping

3" alloy intake pipe

3" K&N air filter

Tial externally venting blow off valve

3" exhaust system

3" Adrenaline R muffler  

Fuel: 
ID1000cc injectors
Fuelab fuel pressure regulator

Fuelab fuel filter

Upgraded fuel rail inlet hose from fuel filter

Deatchwerks 300lph internal fuel pump

Drivetrain: 
Exedy heavy duty clutch

Brakes/suspension/wheels: 

Rays Engineering TE37 16" x 7" alloy wheels

Toyo T1R tyres

Tein type HA coilovers with front adjustable camber tops

Front and rear strut braces

Braided brake lines

Removed ABS

Electronics: 
Vipec i44 ECU 
Autometer oil pressure gauge
Link Knockblock with gauge
Innovate LC2 wideband with gauge

Power: 
Currently 310kw's at 24.7psi at the wheels on pump gas.

Personally I think, and others have already said it, is that you have unfortunately gone too extreme on cam spec. These big cams push the powerband way up high in the revs. I found the below mentioned on google about the cams you are using:

"These 284/280 cams have an aggressive lift and duration, designed to shift the powerband to the right...increasing high-rpm efficiency for large turbochargers that can use the higher rpm to really make power. Requires engine management and upgraded valve springs and retainers."

 I know the cams I am using, Kelford 272's, did the same to my car. Possibly I should of used the 264's. 

Sorry mate, just too hard to ship it and have it arrive in decent condition

Dont be too helpful team.

Really you cant go too far wrong putting the boost tap in. Just monitor what you are doing with a boost gauge. I remember back, probably ten years ago, having my reasonably standard VR4 free-boost after I installed the boost tap and was adjusting it. Obviously when it hitting 20+ psi it was too much and I turned adjusted it down. Realistically a quick pull in 2nd gear isnt going to harm your engine if you get off the gas when you see the boost peak too high.

If you describe what your mods are we can give you some insight into what boost you should be able to run. Stock or aftermarket fuel pump and injectors would be a good start.

I have a 4 bolt diff listed there too. Make use of your strong Australian dollar!!

***EDIT***  - Have now listed TD05H Big 16G turbo also.

Hi all,

I have a heap of VR4 parts. All are located in New Zealand but I can ship to Australia at cost. Let me know what you are interested in and I will let you know the shipping price.

All parts are listed here - http://www.trademe.c...?member=2066000

Cheers

Ryan

Like this Jay?

http://www.trademe.c...n-708585564.htm