Oil pressure and balance shaft removed.

[xjokux]

I've come across an oil leak from the exhaust turbo side making my car puff out smoke on boost. I'm defintiely sure its from the turbo after removing it. I've changed seals on the 16g and also swapped to a 14b removing the fact its the turbo.

I have installed the balancer shaft eliminator kit and I've read bout it raising the oil pressure to a state that the oil blows past the seal. I tried to research an answer of what size and if I do need a restrictor but most of the topics I've read are for the OFH feed line as I'm feeding from the head with a braided line. So what would be the ideal size of a restrictor I'll need or am I missing something here...?

I plan to invest installing a oil pressure gauge too which probably would help me with this situation.

 

[DOUGMO]

In my experience you wont be getting excessive pressure from the head.
are you using new banjo bolts on the braided line or the originals? as the holes in the original banjos
are effectively the restrictor.

as you said a pressure gauge would help in this situation a little

 

[EVO-00X]

Yep, what George said ^^^
Normally when using the OEM oil feed and banjos to feed a journal bearing/ bush bearing turbo from the head, you dont use a restrictor... even if you have the balance shafts removed.
But if youre running a -3AN or -4AN braided line then thats when you need to check with an oil pressure gauge.
Another option to reduce oil pressure is to cut one loop out of the spring in the oil pressure housing, or buy one of these and give it a try http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3019&osCsid=83ad1b3e2c775fad68665dd5c288b6fe
This is good for when guys couldnt be arsed to port, or who do end up porting their OFH but still need to reduce their oil pressure somewhat.
Aim for about 10psi per 1000rpm at WOT. ie 8,000rpm = 80psi.

 

[DOUGMO]

I actually tried a few different springs in mine but I couldnt get one that was right.
my housing is all radiused and ported out, the releif has mild porting, see how it goes.

I have no squirters or balance shafts

 

[xjokux]

In my experience you wont be getting excessive pressure from the head.
are you using new banjo bolts on the braided line or the originals? as the holes in the original banjos
are effectively the restrictor.

as you said a pressure gauge would help in this situation a little

I'm using original bolt but new banjo fitting. If it isnt a case of excessive pressure why would both turbo leak oil from the seal.

What would the ideal place to fit the oil sensor?

Yep, what George said ^^^
Normally when using the OEM oil feed and banjos to feed a journal bearing/ bush bearing turbo from the head, you dont use a restrictor... even if you have the balance shafts removed.
But if youre running a -3AN or -4AN braided line then thats when you need to check with an oil pressure gauge.
Another option to reduce oil pressure is to cut one loop out of the spring in the oil pressure housing, or buy one of these and give it a try http://www.jnztuning...8665dd5c288b6fe
This is good for when guys couldnt be arsed to port, or who do end up porting their OFH but still need to reduce their oil pressure somewhat.
Aim for about 10psi per 1000rpm at WOT. ie 8,000rpm = 80psi.

So efficiently installing the spring and having the feed from the OFH is a better option for better flow than the head or just install the spring only.

 

[DOUGMO]

you need to know your pressures, prefferably from the head and the OFH to compare. then decide from there

 

[EVO-00X]

Personally, I havent tried cutting the spring or replacing it with a softer one either as I had the opportunity to port the housing on mine a fair bit to be sure.
But after reading some DSM forums its good to know that a spring modification can help reduce and fine tune your OP to the desired levels - whether thats with a combination of a ported OFH or without a ported OFH, it does seem to get some acclaim. Its an option worth investigating at least if you need to play around with your OP's without going through the hassle of removing the OFH (again lol).
Yours setup is pretty custom George and a bit of an unknown until you get it up and running. I wouldnt dare hazard a guess as to what kind of pressures it'll be producing lol

 

[DOUGMO]

yeah, time will tell but currently its not high, even when cold, as well as radiusing all of the corners in the pump and the block,
some of the main galleries in the pump have been opened up quite a bit.

 

[brisvr4]

How's the drain jono? No kinks in it?

 

[xjokux]

How's the drain jono? No kinks in it?

The sump has a few dings in it but the return line is fine. It was leaking at one point but fixed it by cutting out the flexi section and replaced with a hose.

 

[amulday]

I've got an oil pressure issue, Reading around 25PSI at 850RPM idle however jumps up to 100psi when revving up to 3000 rpm and beyond. The gauge doesn't fully reset to 0, sits at about 5-10psi when power is off.

I just installed a couple electronic speco oil pressure and oil temperature gauges. Wired the senders up with 4mm and the power into an accessory wire (12V ignition, 14V when engine running) as per Speco instructions, everything is grounded correctly and appears to be normal there (Temperature seems to be reading accurately)

I have Wiseco K559M855 Pistons with an 8.3:1 compression ratio. Balance shaft still installed, Penrite 15-60W oil. Compression test showed 170 across all 4 cylinders recently.

Any thoughts?

 

[bazeng]

Quite normal.

You need to port you're oil filter housing and try and get 10-15psi at idle.

You'll end up with about 80 psi at high revs

 

[4piknup]

I was reading the tech pages on kigglys website.
He says that above (3500 rpm?) The oil filter is in full bypass as the element cannot flow the amount of oil. He also says that there is a 20 psi pressure drop across the oil filter!
I think I will be trying to run dual filters or al least a larger single filter

 

[xjokux]

update on this - I ended up cutting the spring since noone has really done and have values for it. I manage to drop the pressure to 20psi warm idle but no more than 60psi. I originally started with 50psi I did end up cutting a few coils off though. I dunno whether it has stop the smoking cause I think my headgasket is blown.

Question is though is it a better option to port the housing than just cutting the spring alone? If I'm taking off the head I might as well do it if its more beneficial.

 

[EVO-00X]

On the weekend I finally saw how much of a difference it made to my VR4 engine by porting out the oil filter housing.
At cold start prior to porting it used to be 90psi... now it registers 69-70psi. Thats a drop of 20psi at cold start!!! woohooo
Warm idle prior to porting was 26-28psi.... now it registers 26-28psi as well... no change!
I was running Castrol Edge 10-60 immediately after engine rebuild run in for about 3500-4000kms. The Penrite 10W-50 I switched to afterwards was producing similar results to the Castrol but the biggest difference I noticed was that the Penrite ran hotter oil temperatures than what the Castrol did, and the Penrite seemed to make the engine not rev as quickly too.
Still gotta find a good equilibrium in price when it comes to engine oils. Edge is way overpriced and Pentrite is good value for money.... so will have to try something else to do a bit more of a comparison.