4G63 DOHC N/A modifications - HG/HH Galant

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2oohp....... pushing it without changing the displacement but i believe if hondas and toyota can do it n/a so can we!!! as for the cams i havent seen any one try them on our engine (except turbo) but i recon noticable loss/gain either way.... probably when i get a better paying job somtime next year i will build a n/a 4g63 and try to reach 200hp mark and document every thing for other tuners, but atm i'm happy with the 700km approx per tank i get....... atm all my mods keep me side by side with a VT V6 ecotec with red back exhaust (friends car) but with a new clutch i might be infront by a lil, we are also better round corners......

with all my mods + cams and ecu i still dont think it will reach 200hp.... but any thing is possible

Entran bro ahahah....... join in mate...... any ideas welcome including any experiments.........
 
LoL it's great to see some interest sparked. I dunno what it would be at the wheels, prolly closer to 130 - 140hp. But I reckon 200hp is a good goal.
 
it is....... from some old school books for my V8 engines...

"Well, if the camshaft is advanced, the intake valves close earlier in the cycle. This has the effect of increasing cylinder pressure because the exhaust valve closes earlier during the intake stroke. This results in greater low-end torque, but less efficiency at the high end of the rev range.

Retarding the camshaft does the reverse, of course. Doing so has the effect of increasing cylinder scavenging, allowing an engine to "breath" better as it revs up. In fact, it allows engines to rev higher. Engines with retarded cam timing make better power at the high end, but lower torque at the low end. Racing engines benefit best from this type of cam timing"

thus what the adjustable cams do, instead of doin it to the timing of the entire engine......
 
might be a long read but good to know, all engines even with turbo....

"As piston speed increases things get really hairy inside the engine. The allowable time a cylinder has to fill, provide power and exhaust is extremely short. We need to do something with the camshaft to compensate for this condition, otherwise the engine will max-out at some intermediate rpm, say around 4500. We can't increase the lobe separation angle because that would cause the valves to hit the pistons.

The only thing we can do is increase the time the valves are open in order to let in more fuel/air or let out exhaust. The only way to do this is increase duration and, to some extent, lift. The more aggressive a cam, the greater the duration and lift.

Lift is severely limited by the geometry of the engine, especially those that use domed pistons. Also, the lobes themselves must be shaped properly (spread out) or the lifters will not ride on them correctly.

Duration, on the other hand, is up for grabs. Cam grinders can create lobe shapes that give long durations, allowing engines to rev well into the 8-10,000 rpm range because they can "breath." Those same engines, however, exhibit very poor running characteristics at low rpm due to low cylinder pressures and vacuum. They "lope" at idle and frequently won't run at all at speeds lower than 1,000 rpm.

That leads us to making the right choice for our engine. Since we can't have it all, we have to decide how much performance we need and how much loss of driveability we are willing to give up. Camshafts that were specified by the manufacturer originally ("stock" cams) were chosen to give the best low-end torque and ease of starting and driveability over the widest range of conditions. Higher performance engines were fitted with more aggressive camshafts for throttle response and to create the higher power outputs that the inertia of high rpm generates. Buyers of those engines frequently complained about starting problems, high fuel consumption and having to slip clutches in order to accelerate smoothly from a standing start.

When building an engine it is generally wise to install a "mild" camshaft, one that is a step or two up in aggressivity from a stock grind. Such profiles allow crisp throttle response, greater-than-stock power, low end torque and smooth driving characteristics, all at the "cost" of high power output.

Going to high duration and lift camshafts will give you greater power (assuming all the other engine components are matched to the cam) but you will experience poor idle, annoying low-speed driving characteristics, vacuum accessory problems and premature wear of alternators, water pumps and air conditioning compressors.

All of this is the reason why modern engines utilize variable valve timing devices and why relatively small displacement motors pump out impressive amounts of power. Older engines can't benefit from this technology, so we are left with compromises".
 
you're a fkn legend man! That was a good read. Proves you could play with the cam wheel's alone, which I might even do that first, cuz the cams have dropped in price now.. Then again, the plan is to do both at once.
 
hey go nuts on the experiments and document them if i dont get to do them first, as will I with what ever i do..... should be fun.... seems like its only a hand full of people wanting to mod the N/A version 4g63 soo y not help each other out...... just dont blow anything....
 
I hear ya bro. I have always wanted to upgrade the cams in my cars, and this is finally the chance. I have been documenting it, and will start a project thread. I have taken a couple of pics of everything so far.. will upload 2mora, too tired atm!
 

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