4g64/4g63?

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let me ask this.

im about to order my pistons and rods very soon....

would it be woser to obtain the 64 crrank ( for a stroker) then buy pistons and rods to siut?

or just stik wit da 63 crank and leave it a two litre.?

i will be running a 20g + nos aswell

sorry to sound dumb but i just saw this and am very curious
 
no but you can buy istons with a different gudgeon pin height so that you can run the 4g64 crank and make a stroker, they come in 20 40 and 60 though over,

these pistons do make a stroker
 
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so ...
doin this,. would you suggest this method.

as oposed to just forging the 63 and leavin it a 2.0?

wat would you do in my case?
 
if you want the extra torque avaliable from going down the stroker path then do it,its not too much more exspensive than doing a forged 4g63,if your never going to push the engine that far or make use of the extra torque then stick with a 2L
 
dont forget also, when stroking the G63, your turning an already over square motor into really over square.

this has a major impact of the engines "revability" though i have still read about strokers living up around 7krpm.
 
There's a bit of "Die Grinder" action required to add the necessary clearances to the 4G63 block if you go the stroker option, otherwise the crank and rods hit. If you're keeping balance shafts you'll need the 4G64 balance shafts as well.

If you want the full 2.4 litre capacity you need a massive overbore of something like 65 to 70 thou :shock: otherwise a 20 thou overbore will give you the 2.3, 40 thou doesn't gain you much more and you have that extra cylinder wall thickness.

As to what I'd do in your case? What are you using the car for and what do you expect from it? If you're running a 20G and NOS I'm assuming you're looking for a straight line track weapon so why not just stick to a 2.0 and rest assured that you'll have the higher revving capacity?
 
Hey man, if you want a 93, buy SXYGSR's engine. If you want a stroked 63 i think CVAP still has one lying around give them a call. Best way to go!! :D
 
dudes use the 64 crank with numerious different manafactures pistoms (to suit stroker)

Yes the gudgin pin is higher on the piston, I used CP's with eagle rods a fully preped 4G64 7 bolt crank and it works great. To be honest not sure if it is 2.3 or 2.4 all i know is it is 12mm deeper stroke and 20thou over sized.

I'm also running a 20g when you have torque you dont need to ring it's neck.

JetGSR
 
20 thou over with a 2.4 crank will give you almost exactly 2.3,

i did not have to clearance the block, did you jet?
 
You don't have to clearance the block on a 7-bolt engine. The 6-bolts require a bit of grinding here and there.
 
Nar bolt straight in. I dont have balance shafts anyway.

spend a little extra and balance anything that moves and i dont think it will be too square.

300cc larger what's that? A NewZealand can of coke? doesn't sound like much.

I think the increase in torque and spool on a large turbo would out way the 500 less rpm you might loose, and like others have said it really depends what you are doing with the car. Mine has been built for the track and hill climbs ... so torque would be of more benifit for my application

One question? sort of off the topic? what compression ratios would you expect? (I know this might sound dumb) I never measured the difference, We made all the head chambers the same size but be stuffed if i can remember what they were? I leveled the deck so the block was square, had the tunnel machined equalised the squirters all the bullshite, but cannot remember what the head was.

The comp would have to be a bit higher wouldn't it. What the std comp of an EVO 2? 8.5:1
rip 10thou off the deck , 20 off the head, Cometic HP gasket (1mm ? ) and what ever the chamber might be, I only had miner shaping and deburing.

factor in the extra 300cc's what 9:1? (guessing)

Not that it's going to be a problem.

JetGSR
 

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