4G93T Rods - Standard V's Forged

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GSRWRC said:
Mate of mines after the oil releif valve stuck open mid run.

That is IMPRESSIVE mate! :thumbsup:

So is the oil relief valve located in the oil pump assembly?
 
Hey guys sorry to bring up a old thread looking at a rebuilt 4g93t here are the following mods, would like your guys opinion, ill be chasing 300hp off a gt28-71rs

4G93 engine
Arias forged pistons
PAR conrods
ACL bearings
ARP head studs
Mitsubishi Head Gasket
Ported and polished head
Aftermarket cams - Tighe cams
Rotating assembly was balanced
Engine is assembled long engine (has intake manifold on)
New timing belt and balance belt at time of assembly
 
Hey guys sorry to bring up a old thread looking at a rebuilt 4g93t here are the following mods, would like your guys opinion, ill be chasing 300hp off a gt28-71rs

4G93 engine
Arias forged pistons
PAR conrods
ACL bearings
ARP head studs
Mitsubishi Head Gasket
Ported and polished head
Aftermarket cams - Tighe cams
Rotating assembly was balanced
Engine is assembled long engine (has intake manifold on)
New timing belt and balance belt at time of assembly
hahahahahaha...lucky to get 200kw... my dyno guy who is one of the very best, recons you will need a t30+ to get over 200kws on all 4
 
I have heard people saying the spool con rods have let go . has anyone seen a broken one or is it just rumours. mine are ok so far..
 
you can pull 200kwatw with a tdo5 big16g as 3zercrowd has pretty much proved. and thats with stock internals. with forgies and a polished head + cams and a good tune the turbo will decide what you want.

tdo5 small 16g, about 190 to 210kw. full boost starts at 3500rpm
tdo5 big 16g, about 190 to 230kw. full boost starts at 4000rpm
td05 20g, bout to find out but full boost appears to come on at 5000rpm (this shouldnt be a problem with cams but make sure your engine can maintain oil preassure before reving past 7500rpm).
 
I have heard people saying the spool con rods have let go . has anyone seen a broken one or is it just rumours. mine are ok so far..


Check the very first post the picture shows a spool forged rod.... yes I am using them.. i recommend them highly...

Was running a GT2871-15 (26psi), now running a GT3071R-3 (above 26psi hehe), if you have your heart set on the 2871 make sure you get the dash 15 its the most responsive out of the GT2871's, but the GT3071R-3 is MUCH MUCH BETTER!, it holds boost and keeps making power upto 7800rpm (I havent gone past this rpm) :D :D :D
depends how much power you want.. GT2871-15 is a good choice.

Depending on what boost you want to run, consider lowering your compression ratio!!! Mine is reduced from 8.5:1 to 8.0:1

The biggest issue you will have is with your head gasket (Cometic dont and Wont do one) and the sealing of the kidney shaped oil gallery hole on the very front drivers side of the block, there are a few tips to be heard.. Go steel shim or the "o-ring" method. DO NOT USE THE FACTORY HEAD GASKET FOR ABOVE 20psi...

I am still using STOCK CAMS, and a modified STOCK EXHAUST MANIFOLD, how cool is that? B)

Your clutch... dont bother with a organic one with the power you will get from a GT2871 or bigger... My excedy cushioned ceramic clutch has held up very very well, i will be buying another one when the time comes..

I better check my "introductions" see if its upto date.. oops, I so need to do a "members ride" post...

As for my power figure ATW.... I have no idea ATM, the last time it was on a Dyno was way back when the GT2560 was on it.... That will change this year, must get it dyno'd with the new turbo on.
 
I am rebuilding a 4g93 right now. I have sourced K1 technology rods and some custom pistons from a mob called euroexport. I think the cost to me inc post was 960ish. ....which was 400 cheaper than the spool package!! K1 is good stuff too,although i think these are chinese rods that are finish machined in the states. the comp ratio on the pistons I have used is 9-1 as I dont expect to use boost above 20lb on a tdo5 small 16g. it currently has the stock turbo and I will see how that goes before upgrading it. My preference is actually the 14b from a VR4 as it is still very responsive and has resonable power. when its all said and done if I wanted more power and torque then there would be a 4G63 going in.

head studs are the 3sgte toyota studs ....the main studs I have used are from the 4g63. I had these checked when the block was being align bored and they will be perfect.

I will edit later with the part numbers so they will show up when people are searching...:blink:
 
Check the very first post the picture shows a spool forged rod.... yes I am using them.. i recommend them highly...

Was running a GT2871-15 (26psi), now running a GT3071R-3 (above 26psi hehe), if you have your heart set on the 2871 make sure you get the dash 15 its the most responsive out of the GT2871's, but the GT3071R-3 is MUCH MUCH BETTER!, it holds boost and keeps making power upto 7800rpm (I havent gone past this rpm) :D :D :D
depends how much power you want.. GT2871-15 is a good choice.

Depending on what boost you want to run, consider lowering your compression ratio!!! Mine is reduced from 8.5:1 to 8.0:1

The biggest issue you will have is with your head gasket (Cometic dont and Wont do one) and the sealing of the kidney shaped oil gallery hole on the very front drivers side of the block, there are a few tips to be heard.. Go steel shim or the "o-ring" method. DO NOT USE THE FACTORY HEAD GASKET FOR ABOVE 20psi...

I am still using STOCK CAMS, and a modified STOCK EXHAUST MANIFOLD, how cool is that? B)

Your clutch... dont bother with a organic one with the power you will get from a GT2871 or bigger... My excedy cushioned ceramic clutch has held up very very well, i will be buying another one when the time comes..

I better check my "introductions" see if its upto date.. oops, I so need to do a "members ride" post...

As for my power figure ATW.... I have no idea ATM, the last time it was on a Dyno was way back when the GT2560 was on it.... That will change this year, must get it dyno'd with the new turbo on.
not having a dig at smutt, we're all here to build weapon 4g93's but i would suggest upping the comp ratio to 9.5 -10... the days of decompressing is over...its in the same basket as o'ringing and microtechs...
i would use, and i am going to use myself a genuine 2 layer head gasket with arp studs, appart from that i would say copper, but they have their own problems....
also stock cams, stock exhaust manifold and hydrolic lifters should be binned if you mention the words forged internals... they are rubbish!!!!!

i know alot of people disagree with me on this site but hey, horses for courses...im chasing over 250kw soill build my motor to suit
 
not having a dig at smutt, we're all here to build weapon 4g93's but i would suggest upping the comp ratio to 9.5 -10... the days of decompressing is over...its in the same basket as o'ringing and microtechs...
i would use, and i am going to use myself a genuine 2 layer head gasket with arp studs, appart from that i would say copper, but they have their own problems....
also stock cams, stock exhaust manifold and hydrolic lifters should be binned if you mention the words forged internals... they are rubbish!!!!!

i know alot of people disagree with me on this site but hey, horses for courses...im chasing over 250kw soill build my motor to suit

I disagree... who runs above 25psi of boost with that much compression ratio on pump fuel??? Comp ratio too high at 9.5 - 10:1

I have the same opinion about "needing" different cams and custom exhaust manifold (as I said mine is modified, the outlet that is), you dont need them. Why spend the money on Cams and wheels to gain 20 to 40 hp.. The gain is not worth the expense.

As time goes on and I need to spend some more on the motor, maybe i will "only" change the exhaust manifold and see what gains are made and post it.

Then change only the cams, get it tuned to suit and see the power gains using the same amount of boost as used with the stock cams.

As for the lifters, they havent given me issues yet, so they dont get changed out yet..

Guess we will see how much power I have once its dyno'd.. and who has spent the most to get there...

Next time dont use the word "rubbish"... Ur belief and opinion and tact are rubbish! But, Im not having a dig at you...
 
I know that the engine made 210kw at all fours on 18psi with the gt28-71rs with the .86 rear housing or something like that and had heaps left in it.
but im only looking at running 18psi max

as for CYBORG-X my mate that drives a vr4 powered gsr made 350hp with a gt28-60rs turbo, with dyno sheet tuned by apc
 
not having a dig at smutt, we're all here to build weapon 4g93's but i would suggest upping the comp ratio to 9.5 -10... the days of decompressing is over...its in the same basket as o'ringing and microtechs...

Words cannot express how much I disagree with this. That CR would only usefull if you're running Methanol, Q16 and the like. Mine is around the 8.0:1 mark, and I have no fear about cramming 24psi into it on pump gas. Try that on 9.5:1+....

The Hydraulic lifters are fine. I wouldn't even consider changing those unless I was running a 500kW drag car, solid lifters are a right pain in the ass. The stock exhaust manifold isn't flash, but its good for 250kW, and its better than 99.9% of stainless shit out there (Stainless is FAIL), plus if you're on a budget and intend on running an MHI based turbine housing you get to save a bit of money. The only reason I'd go aftermarket in that department for my car is if I decide to look at a twinscroll exhaust housing.
 
just an idea for the guys that wanna run cams make sure you rectify any oil preassure problems so there is no epic fail at high RPM. stock internals will handle up to 16psi with good oil preassure but even all that forged awsomeness will fail without oil. Just a tip as this seems to be the popular cause of engine failure in highly stressesd 93's.
 
just an idea for the guys that wanna run cams make sure you rectify any oil preassure problems so there is no epic fail at high RPM. stock internals will handle up to 16psi with good oil preassure but even all that forged awsomeness will fail without oil. Just a tip as this seems to be the popular cause of engine failure in highly stressesd 93's.

Agree! Rebuilding your 93, make sure you get a new oil pump. Dont run a too heavy grade of oil, I do suspect my last engine failure was due to thicker oil and high rpm caused some cavitation in the oil pump and then failure.

Currently using and sticking to Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5W-50
 
well if you cant get boost, hi-comp and pump gas to mix you may need to find a better tuner...
in fact you can run less boost to get the same amount of power, but most people seem to believe all these old techniques...really it depends on the engine builder if they know their shit or not... cos reguardless wether the motor is built with all the right components needed, most people just think to put more boost is the right option, because a boost controler is cheap...

and anybody that has a dyno, can tweak the numbers, ive seen it done... so kw or hp figures mean just about nothing to me...
 
I would prefer 8.5:1 purely because in a way your both right. however there are a few things i would like to point out.
when using higher comp ratios you do make more power out of less boost but..... it is much more risky. Now you might say a good tuner can do this no worries. that might be true but what happens when you get a bad batch of fuel? a really hot or cold day?
on the other hane at 8:1 you can run more boost and if you get a bad batch of fuel you are less likely to turn your pistons to fairy dust. however you wont have the efficiency off boost just cruising around fuel economy will be down. also it puts alot more load on the turbo. rely alot more on high rpm where these engines are more pron to failure.

any who just my 2cents.
 

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