$5550 rebuild cost for 4g93t

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

blackers10

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
281
Location
Narangba, QLD
Hey all
just got a price back on rebuilding my 4g93t with Forged rods and pistons (spool rods and CP pistons) and all the usual stuff you get done in a rebuild including some port and polishing etc rebuild head etc etc
by a very reputable engine builder(does ALOT of big time drag motors)

the cost is $5550
that doesn't include anything to do with fitting or the turbo etc

the alternative is do the 4g63 conversion(have to find one 1st)
whats the going rate for one of these

If i put everything in myself
could i do it for under 5k?
 
Just my opinion, but I'd go the 4G63 conversion myself.

How much you pay for one would depend on what car it came out of, i.e. VR4 or EVO III, etc, and whether you bought one from a wreckers, or found one on the forum.

Price would also depend on whether you want to buy a bare engine, or an engine conversion package (usually the complete engine, ECU and wiring loom)

For example, I bought a fully forged 4G63 (minus the turbo, exhaust manifold and wiring loom) for $1800 off this forum.

Whereas Japan Autos are selling a bare Evo 3 4G63 for 2.5K on ebay ATM:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/JDM-Mitsubis...ZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5884afa463

Might also be worth considering how easy the conversion will be to get past your state's Transport Dept. At least the 4G93 came in car from factory?

Hope this helps.
 
^good post dude...i agree with the 2 litre conversion idea,but as said,make sure its a legal mod in your state. In NSW its legal, with no engineering needed.Just make sure you upgrade the front brakes if you go the 2 litre road.

Last year i bought a complete car,which had the 2l motor,Exxedy HD clutch,Evo Box,recaro interior retrimmed in leather,leather door trims,the brakes,stainless turbo back exhaust,Teins,Evo bonnet,elec folding mirrors,climate control,the list goes on and on for..wait for it...$4200!!!!!!!! I took all the bits mentioned above off it and put them in my car and parted the rest of the car out and got $4000 back for it...so it cost me $200 for all of those bits!!!!!!!!!!!! plus ive still got a shed full of odds and ends left over... You will be very lucky to do that, but, you can do it for under 5g,for sure,if you do it yourself...A mate and i did it at home in a weekend..easy as

Good luck!
 
the conversion will be easy to get engineered if i went that way(Already have twin piston brakes)
I did notice that bare engine.. but I wont be able to get "the rest" with the change from $5k would I?
 
I guess it depends if you just want to get a low K 4G63 and and put it in stock, or completely rebuild it with forged internals, hotter cams, etc right form the start.

I'f you go an engine conversion package, it should give you everything you need to do the conversion, apart from forged internals and consumables, i.e. timing belt, gaskets, fluids, etc.

You'd probably pay between 2 and 2.5K for one of these using a VR4 sourced engine.

Apart from the engine I've bought, here's the parts I've sourced & what I've paid (roughly) so far:

$800 - 2nd hand Big16G and Exhaust Manifold.
$390 - VR4 ECU (Ripped off by the wreckers that sold it to me - turned out to have good old Mitsu capacitor leakage and had to be sent away to get repaired)
 
$5500! Geez louise.......

Josh_tsv got his 63t forged (he paid for the forged internals etc... and took the engine mostly disassembled [short block and head separated with no accessories]) up here at a top notch HiPo engine builder for just under $2K (thats all machining, balancing and assembly with Head rebuilt and fitted) and we did all the rest.

If you can do most of the easier work yourself you will save big time.:thumbsup:
 
I paid 5k to get my 93 rebuilt.
But that also was at a very reputeable workshop which I knew 100% would do the job right.
Im going to try not to sound bias here, but it really depends what you want.
If you get the 93 rebuilt it will basically be a fresh engine with no hassles.
Going the 63 route will mean you have a second hand engine most likely coming from some Jap wrecker who's sprayed a whole heap of degreaser on it and telling you its done 50000k's where in fact its probably somewhere near 200000k's. Which may give you problems in the end.
I think the price is decent. Reliability has a price, and I know where i'd be putting my money.
It depends how confident you are in doing the job, vs how bad you want the 63 conversion, vs paying a bit extra to have the job done 100%.
 
5.5k to do a forged 63t or 93t is rather "standard".

find yourself a broken 63t and do the 63t route, unless ofcourse u wanna be different. ive had experience with both and both respond very well to mods, my GSR 1.8T with 230kw ran 12.10 carrying a passenger and my Evo 1 63t ran 12.05@ 120mph i think with roughly 225kw.. so same same really.. depends on taste... both motors produce very good power!

My Evo 1 had stock internals.. My GSR has stock internals from another car.. so yer stock internals but still alot of machine work to get it all to work.
FYI stock 63T will handle roughly 240kw IMHO before u start pushing the limits of it...
Stock 93T probably about 170kw (reliable)... ive heard of 200kw stock motors but i think thats pushing the limit too much as the rods are so thin factory.

Jon
 
I'm no expert on 93's (or anything for that matter) but isn't the only thing not condusive for big boost the conrods?
I haven't heard of any stock piston failures that weren't mixture related.
 
rob323 said:
I'm no expert on 93's (or anything for that matter) but isn't the only thing not condusive for big boost the conrods?
I haven't heard of any stock piston failures that weren't mixture related.

stock pistons on a 93t r ok for decent power.. i know they will take 200kw -220kw..

as you said its the rods that let the team down... however if ur going to put aftermarket rods in it.. ud b stupid to run factory pistons...

Jon
 
You'd be stupid to run aftermarket management that doesn't use a knock sensor, even with forged pistons. Yet some people do. Why replace pistons just for the sake of it. Spend the money on better management/ tuning instead.
 
rob323 said:
You'd be stupid to run aftermarket management that doesn't use a knock sensor, even with forged pistons. Yet some people do. Why replace pistons just for the sake of it. Spend the money on better management/ tuning instead.

because sooner or later they will fail :)

unless ofcourse ur chasing only 200kw, which leads me to the question why bother with a 1.8 wen a 2 litre will do that efficently all day everyday in "Standard" form.

Jon
 
Jon, are you talking flywheel kw or at all four wheels kw ?
(If it were me, I'd go 6 bolt vr4 motor anyway, I'm just curious as to whether just changing the rods on a 93t will let you run 15 psi reliably without the need to fully strip and rebuild the motor.)
 
rob323 said:
Jon, are you talking flywheel kw or at all four wheels kw ?
(If it were me, I'd go 6 bolt vr4 motor anyway, I'm just curious as to whether just changing the rods on a 93t will let you run 15 psi reliably without the need to fully strip and rebuild the motor.)

all at the wheels.

changing the rods will effectively let you run more then 15psi yes.. however at that stage if youve pulled the motor down to change rods you may aswell do the pistons (if ur doing it the proper way).. otherwise IMHO its a waste of money to change rods, not doing pistons cos when and if you decide to change the pistons itll cost u more in gaskets etc.. etc..

changing the rods is more of a 'band aid' technique to it. if your lazy.. any 4G63T VR4/Evo will do..

Jon
 
My one was at the $5k (mind you this was sometime ago)

Jon sums it up pretty well! At the end of the day it is the prefence of the owner. Not many people take a punt on the 93 because of the rod issue but if your building it then the problem is automatcially eliminated!

Best of luck everyone knows where my vote lies :p
 

Latest posts

Back
Top