BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
pictures of the guts of an adelia coupling
adelia coupling disassembled
- Thread starter BMGTZ
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4piknup
master of none
dunno what all those bits do or how they work, but it looks to be in good nick
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Jack-its a tricked up viscous coupling, which links the back wheels to the front wheels so that when one set starts to spin, torque will be transferred to the other set...
It goes on the inside of the end cover on a AWD gearbox on the end of output shaft.
It goes on the inside of the end cover on a AWD gearbox on the end of output shaft.
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
this one cost me hard! in the finish buying this through import monster almost doubled the purchase price. price at auction close was 850.00.....about 500 of which was the adelia
then they charged me extra for this and that.....till it came up to 926.00 even bloody gst...... never again :angry:
I checked with jesse streeter....about 700. ......big difference.
so anyway back to payment details.
cost of unit. your firts born to be named after me., your missus/girlfriend to wash my cars{6} every weekend for a year ...wearing a bikini that will be supplied....., a kidney that I can sell on in America....must be human, and 1000.00 aud
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
Hi do you still have one for sale.
I had a car that had a mechanical unit in it, it would lock up under power and free wheel under trailing throttle. It was in a Ralliart prepared evo 1. Sold the car, bought it back 10 years later and it had a ralliart VCD instead. I need one urgently for an autocross car?
can you help?
Cheers
Martin 0418171873
I had a car that had a mechanical unit in it, it would lock up under power and free wheel under trailing throttle. It was in a Ralliart prepared evo 1. Sold the car, bought it back 10 years later and it had a ralliart VCD instead. I need one urgently for an autocross car?
can you help?
Cheers
Martin 0418171873
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
not really for sale Martin....
however......in anticipation of your having read the terms of sale as described to a fellow forum member above....
auditions of car washing girls are soon to start....
however......in anticipation of your having read the terms of sale as described to a fellow forum member above....
auditions of car washing girls are soon to start....
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
if you buy five of them they "might" make them was the reply I got from Japan.
roughly 2k each
roughly 2k each
Shane Russell
Member
Hmm I have one in my Gravel rally Evo 1 need to set it up properly and allso set up the front LSD better as well
I had my jap contact ask adelia about these, i was told 4 month wait and about $1600 or so for one.
so still available for the patient people.
Shane I dont think they work very well on rally cars, I can do you a favour and take yours if you like
Resurgance
Member
Hi Sorry for resurrecting OLD post, but does anyone know if I can run one of these adelia magic couplings on top of a Cusco tarmac 65/35 for use on gravel?
And how do I set this Adelia Magic coupler up????
And how do I set this Adelia Magic coupler up????
CanadianCD9A
Well-Known Member
No, you can't. The Adelia locks the axles together on acceleration, it would totally negate the Tarmac. The Tarmac is literally the worst thing on earth for a gravel car, since it's a rear-biased open differential. That means that when one axle has no traction, all the torque goes to that axle and you go NOWHERE (assuming you have no coupler attached). A stock differential with stock viscous coupler would be more effective than the Adelia, since it would allow the Tarmac to do it's thing and overpower the rear tires until the coupling clamps down, plus you wouldn't have to pay anything for it. I understand your line of thinking - you want a rear-biased setup that still powers all 4 wheels, and the front axle can pull you out when the rear tires spin. True rear-biased AWD is only possible on hydraulic setups and modern clutch-actuated setups, or with planetary center LSDs like the Audi Quattro system. The closest you could get would be to use a stock viscous coupling on the Tarmac, which would allow some spin, but you have essentially no control over when it locks, or unlocks, which is problematic. The coupler's condition could also deteriorate and make it useless (if it's not already shot). The second best thing I could recommend is to get an ATS or Cusco plate-style center diff and mess with the preload from front to back. You might be able to give the rears a bit more liberty in terms of lock delay and breakaway torque to allow it to spin up before locking all 4, but it would take a lot of trial-and-error to get it right. The plate-style center diffs can allow you to cheat a bit, since they are 2-way. They have a locking effect on deceleration too, which allows the rear to rotate into a corner before you get on the gas, and could be amplified by a 2-way rear differential. All of that just destabilizes the rear before accelerating, which is akin to having a rear-biased setup that will destabilize the rear on acceleration only. If it's power-on oversteer you're after, it's very difficult to find in our cars. Our diff sucks.
If you have the Adelia, use it on a stock center diff and find a different way to get the results you want. The Adelia is essentially untunable. You can remove some ball bearings to mess with the preload a bit, but you cannot change the front-rear bias of it. Just stay stock if you don't have the coupling.
If you have the Adelia, use it on a stock center diff and find a different way to get the results you want. The Adelia is essentially untunable. You can remove some ball bearings to mess with the preload a bit, but you cannot change the front-rear bias of it. Just stay stock if you don't have the coupling.
CanadianCD9A
Well-Known Member
Also, I have a question of my own regarding the Adelia coupling. Does anyone know what the number stamped into it means? I thought initially it was a serial number. I see S002 on the one in the pictures above. Adelia's own advertising shows S013 in pictures. I've owned S014, S016 and S018 in the past few years, and sold them all to the US. I just bought one brand new in the box from Japan, and it is S014 also; it's impossible that it's the same unit as my previous S014. I'm totally confused.
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BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
I’ve had a few... two were the same number
Regards the tarmac use of one of these
I could fine no reason For the tarmac to work in the way it’s advertised. It’s just a helical diff. The35/65 bull shit is just s gimmick.
It spins up thef rears when you use it without Vcs because they have less weight loaded
Regards the tarmac use of one of these
I could fine no reason For the tarmac to work in the way it’s advertised. It’s just a helical diff. The35/65 bull shit is just s gimmick.
It spins up thef rears when you use it without Vcs because they have less weight loaded
Resurgance
Member
Thanks CanadianCD9A I have SO15 - From what I can tell it is an amazing bit of kit enabling me on gravel to handbrake turn tightly, but drive well. Am about to test the one I have like I normally test VCUs - Spin it up in vice at 100rpm and use a 3/4" drive wrench with a constant torque display adapter thingy *SHORT DURATION ONLY* as they heat up, can't do them any good. I pulled apart a centre diff and put this in the lathe chuck, then drilled and tapped the centre bit, attaching a socket the right fit to give me a female 3/4" drive socket. The torque thing is a male-female adapter with a digital display. So far at 100rpm I have got between 90nm-190nm out of 12 odd couplers. Best factory ones were 200nm i have 2 of those, and then last one I tested just about squashed my hand against side of lathe, it was 270nm, and turns out it had faint engraving on it, RALLIART! boom.
Anyway haven't yet but will test the mechanical one later today or tomorrow.
My biggest fear at the moment is that I have cooked it. In the last rally I had 3 unrelated incidences (water sucked in broken breather, clutch master on fritz and possible broken front lsd diff) and at last service I couldn't touch gearbox it was SO HOT. Anyway on last stage had 2 completely random spins through what felt like unpredictable drive.
Have looked into getting a couple made from local firms but they are making the wrong kind of noises about the machines needed for splines etc.
Anyone got any info about;
1) tweaking these bad boys for preload and is it a single setting for preload only or does changing it affect lock and unlock together? How is it done etc.
2) How can I figure out if its cooked, what signs am I looking for and can I simply make new plates?
3) whatever else.......
Thanks in advance
Anyway haven't yet but will test the mechanical one later today or tomorrow.
My biggest fear at the moment is that I have cooked it. In the last rally I had 3 unrelated incidences (water sucked in broken breather, clutch master on fritz and possible broken front lsd diff) and at last service I couldn't touch gearbox it was SO HOT. Anyway on last stage had 2 completely random spins through what felt like unpredictable drive.
Have looked into getting a couple made from local firms but they are making the wrong kind of noises about the machines needed for splines etc.
Anyone got any info about;
1) tweaking these bad boys for preload and is it a single setting for preload only or does changing it affect lock and unlock together? How is it done etc.
2) How can I figure out if its cooked, what signs am I looking for and can I simply make new plates?
3) whatever else.......
Thanks in advance
Resurgance
Member
BMGTZ or CanadianCD9A can you help with photos of coupler component?
Mine had really slack hookup basically no drive to rear wheels it looks like.
Pulled it apart and from the expanding ballbearing side rather than the needle bearing side, there was a grinding paste stuff (collapsed component?)
I have ball bearing plate, then what looks like a thick conical spring washer maybe 3.5mm thick then the grinding paste stuff then the main friction plate with the funny symmetrical pattern on it.
What should I have between the expanding ball bearing 'wedge' plate and the main friction plate?
Thanks
Mine had really slack hookup basically no drive to rear wheels it looks like.
Pulled it apart and from the expanding ballbearing side rather than the needle bearing side, there was a grinding paste stuff (collapsed component?)
I have ball bearing plate, then what looks like a thick conical spring washer maybe 3.5mm thick then the grinding paste stuff then the main friction plate with the funny symmetrical pattern on it.
What should I have between the expanding ball bearing 'wedge' plate and the main friction plate?
Thanks
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