ALMOST BENT VALVES

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warbo

4g63 breaker
Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
155
Location
Darwin
IMAG0071.jpgIMAG0078.jpgIMAG0034.jpg

I had been "too busy" to replace my timing belts which had done 130k. when I finally got around to it i found the following. the overhead pic shows the pulley bearing in an out of aligned position. The wear on the centre bolt is clear, as is the resulting wear on the timing cover. So as u can see, I "almost had bent valves" if the timing belt had slipped or come off! Do yourself a favour and learn from my mistake. When your belt is due......dont put it off. Oh and use thread locker on the pulley bolt!
 
Yes very lucky! So much work needs doing on this hsg that if the valves had bent then the vehicle would have been scrapped. Just slowly fixing up now as time and $$ permits.

Not sure if i tensioned the hydraulic tensioner down correctly using a back yard method (didnt have the md tool avail. just large screwdriver, plenty of time, and several adjustments). I ended up with a gap between the top of the hydraulic tensioner body and the contact face area of the tensioner arm mechanism of just under 4.5mm. Can anyone please confirm if this is correct?? If not what should it be and is there an easy method to set the tensioner in the absence of the md tool and torque wrench?

Also I didnt replace any seals behind the balance shaft and oil pump drives! Did not appear to be leaking but cam and crank seals were very hard like Bake-a-lite (not sure how to spell that hard brittle material old light switches used to be made out of :D . Any advice??? Dont mind if I have to take it all apart again as is all very clean now. :p
 
as far as i can gather, the belt is tight enough if you can get the allen key in and out of the small hole on the tensioner. spin it over by hand a couple of revolutions then retry to get allen key in. if it goes, then it tight enough!
 
do you have the manuals?.....they are on here somewhere and will tell you about how to do it.

be sure to leave it a while{15/20 mins/} and then turn over to few times and recheck the tension
 
Yes i have downloaded one of the manuals although the instructions are clear as what to do with the correct equipment (md tool) although a bit iffy when the guy starts to suggest unorthodox ways of doing things (although his method of using a breaker bar and starter motor to crack open the crank bolt was excellent!).

Jack I will ask an evo guru down south after the new years festivities have finished and confirm how he sets the hydraulic belt tension as have heard that if too much tension is applied to the belt, then it can wear out prematurely (not that am planning on doing a huge amount of kms in the hsg as have bought new 2011 rvr aspire B) . cheers.
 
The gap between the tensioner body and arm should be 3.8mm - 4.5mm once everything has settled down.
I use the drill bit method on Vfaq as it's too hard to get the Mitsi tool in there with the engine in the bay.
 
Yes I used the drill bit method as well. It felt a bit agricultural .... But so are half my other techniques! And yes. Lucky!
 
This may help you doing the belt changes...

http://www.team-2g.com/mitsubishi-eclipse/diy-how-tech-articles/27547-how-put-your-4g63-time.html
 
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