Bodman456
Active Member
Yep I adjusted the top pedal stop as well as the master cylinder rod at the same time, even with the stop wound all the way back it doesn't make a differenceWhite Knight said:
Boden's RVR HSGR
- Thread starter Bodman456
- Start date
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CAM280
Well-Known Member
No he needs the full experience.....
Bodman456
Active Member
I'm not dead, still alive, ended up parking the car for 3mo and giving it the finger when leaving for work every morning on the R1200 instead hahaha. Quit my job, got a Prius for free, got a new job, fixed the Prius and flipped it and now this weekend I've finally pulled the RVR back into the garage and started the process of dropping the gearbox and replacing the clutch.
Fun bits, a Competition Clutch lightweight steel flywheel, Competition Clutch forged clutch fork, and a Mantic Stage 1 organic single-plate clutch.
End of Day 1, had to stop early as my mate who was helping had to go to work
End of Day 2, box and transfer out, clutch and flywheel off.
The cause of the clutch issues, a part of the clutch hub had broken off and let the springs out, which were rubbing against the pressure plate fingers and causing the clutch to drag and not disengage properly.
Rubbing marks on the pressure plate.
Unfortunately while removing the flywheel some of the bolts partially rounded off so I'll be buying a full set of flywheel bolts, going to try and get some before Wednesday's public holiday in Brisbane so I can smash out the rest of the job then. I also have some go-fast bits on the way, got an FPR install kit from Extreme PSI when I ordered the flywheel and clutch fork, and I also have a patch harness coming from Autosport Wiring to turn into an adapter harness for the Evo 8 ECU, and a Radium 3.0bar FPR, Pierburg 3-port boost solenoid and AEM X Series wideband O2 coming from Pro Speed Racing, so I'll be able to put the Deatschwerks fuel pump in that I've had sitting here for several months too haha.
Fun bits, a Competition Clutch lightweight steel flywheel, Competition Clutch forged clutch fork, and a Mantic Stage 1 organic single-plate clutch.
End of Day 1, had to stop early as my mate who was helping had to go to work
End of Day 2, box and transfer out, clutch and flywheel off.
The cause of the clutch issues, a part of the clutch hub had broken off and let the springs out, which were rubbing against the pressure plate fingers and causing the clutch to drag and not disengage properly.
Rubbing marks on the pressure plate.
Unfortunately while removing the flywheel some of the bolts partially rounded off so I'll be buying a full set of flywheel bolts, going to try and get some before Wednesday's public holiday in Brisbane so I can smash out the rest of the job then. I also have some go-fast bits on the way, got an FPR install kit from Extreme PSI when I ordered the flywheel and clutch fork, and I also have a patch harness coming from Autosport Wiring to turn into an adapter harness for the Evo 8 ECU, and a Radium 3.0bar FPR, Pierburg 3-port boost solenoid and AEM X Series wideband O2 coming from Pro Speed Racing, so I'll be able to put the Deatschwerks fuel pump in that I've had sitting here for several months too haha.
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Well...evo-gsr said:
Bodman456
Active Member
It lives again! Finished putting it all back together last night, only to find the battery was proper cactus after 3mo of sitting so went and grabbed a new (and bigger) battery today and she starts up mint. Took it down to the local carwash to give it some love and it drives great, the new clutch feels good and the lightweight flywheel makes the engine so much more responsive.
Got some more goodies too, almost time to start winding more power into this
h34r:
Got some more goodies too, almost time to start winding more power into this
h34r:
brisvr4
Member
Nice! What did you get from Radium? I have a few pieces from them, very well made stuff!
Bodman456
Active Member
Just their basic fuel pressure reg with the Bosch top, don't really need adjustable fuel pressure so this simplifies things, and it won't suffer from over-run at low loads/idle like the stock FPRs do when you put a bigger fuel pump in.brisvr4 said:
brisvr4
Member
True, I went for the MPR as I need a lot more flow capacity for mine.
Bodman456
Active Member
Yeah I don't think I'll ever outflow the DW300 I have sitting here waiting to go in haha, always going to be limited by the box as I don't want to be stripping teeth off of 3rd or 4th gear, Evo 3 gearbox internals are getting harder and harder to come by (you can't even get Evo 3 5th gear assemblies anymore new from Mitsubishi, they're NLA and the last known new stock sold out early last year, so who knows what's gonna be available 6, 12, 18mo down the line)brisvr4 said:
brisvr4
Member
That’s why I got an auto for mine. They handle big power much better than a manual!
Bodman456
Active Member
If I was building a straight line/mexican racing league car then yeah I'd go auto all day, but for what I'm doing I prefer the manual hahabrisvr4 said:
Bodman456
Active Member
Been playing with wires tonight, pretty much finished the Evo 8 ECU adapter harness, just need to wire in an OBD-II plug and reflash connector and add a flying lead to what is normally the rear O2 sensor wire to connect the wideband to and then it'll be ready to go into the car!
Goal for this week is to get the fuel pump, FPR, wideband and Evo 8 ECU in the car and have it running and driving so I can start doing some tuning this weekend, I'm very excited. omw to put 25psi through a stock 4G63T and lift heads :whistling:
Goal for this week is to get the fuel pump, FPR, wideband and Evo 8 ECU in the car and have it running and driving so I can start doing some tuning this weekend, I'm very excited. omw to put 25psi through a stock 4G63T and lift heads :whistling:
Bodman456
Active Member
So more fun times for me in the past week or so, got the Radium FPR fitted, but not before dropping one of the fuel rail spacers down the back of the engine and having it literally disappear into the abyss. Replaced it, and put RTV on all 3 so when I next remove the rail they stay stuck to the head.
Got the Evo 8 ECU in and running too, car drives great with it (after I swapped the IACV, and adjusted the BISS because it was set so wrong that the car would just refuse to idle after a short while on the E8 ECU, I'm surprised it was able to idle at all on the stock ECU, it seemed like it was basically screwed all the way in). Interestingly despite all the information on hand saying otherwise, I had to swap the fuel pump relay and fuel pressure solenoid pins back around to their original configuration as my wiring harness does NOT have them swapped from factory and as such instead shares the same pinout as the Evo III.
It hasn't been all sunshine and roses though, on Tuesday this week it left me stranded at work when the fuel pump decided it was a great time to cark it. "Fine" I said, I have a DW300 pump just sitting here that I've had for months. Go down to the car today (since it's stuck at work) to put the new pump in, SURPRISE, those absolutely lovely fittings on the soft hose from the tank to the body line decided they didn't want to come undone and preferred to be round rather than hexagonal. Bit the bullet and have ordered some hardline to -6 AN adapter fittings, as well as matching 200 series hose and hose ends from Aeroflow, will just cut that bloody soft hose off and be done with it. :fuuuuu:
Got the Evo 8 ECU in and running too, car drives great with it (after I swapped the IACV, and adjusted the BISS because it was set so wrong that the car would just refuse to idle after a short while on the E8 ECU, I'm surprised it was able to idle at all on the stock ECU, it seemed like it was basically screwed all the way in). Interestingly despite all the information on hand saying otherwise, I had to swap the fuel pump relay and fuel pressure solenoid pins back around to their original configuration as my wiring harness does NOT have them swapped from factory and as such instead shares the same pinout as the Evo III.
It hasn't been all sunshine and roses though, on Tuesday this week it left me stranded at work when the fuel pump decided it was a great time to cark it. "Fine" I said, I have a DW300 pump just sitting here that I've had for months. Go down to the car today (since it's stuck at work) to put the new pump in, SURPRISE, those absolutely lovely fittings on the soft hose from the tank to the body line decided they didn't want to come undone and preferred to be round rather than hexagonal. Bit the bullet and have ordered some hardline to -6 AN adapter fittings, as well as matching 200 series hose and hose ends from Aeroflow, will just cut that bloody soft hose off and be done with it. :fuuuuu:
I feel your pain with the fuel fittings. Best investment was a set of KNIPEX parrallel jaw multigrips. I soaked my fittings with wd40 and then Wurst rost off for a day and then managed to get them off. Was an absolute prick! Even with the proper spanners they still rounded off. Keen to see your Radium setup as well.
Bodman456
Active Member
It lives again! Cut the metal pipes off the cradle and body with a mini hacksaw and fitted Aeroflow hardline to AN adapters to put a -6 AN line where the previous rubber line was. Also replaced the cactus stock pump with the Deatschwerks DW300, which to my surprise was a 100% drop-in replacement, even the electrical connector was the same, and the lower bracket with rubber isolator fit perfectly too, that was a pleasant surprise for sure. Only problem I have now is I'm 95% sure the factory jet pump that draws fuel from the passenger side of the tank is restricting the return too much, which is causing my fuel pressure to be at about 55psi at idle/low load instead of the normal 42psi. Dammit, I was hoping to not have to pull the back seats out again any time soon, they're so god damned heavy and awkward to remove T_T
In other good news, finally finished painting the Evo 5 wheels I bought months ago, and man did they turn out m i n t. Painted in Nissan Titanium Grey (KAC), they're a dark almost gunmetal silver/grey, but when the sun hits them you get this lovely bronze-y colour to them and it looks awesome.
In other good news, finally finished painting the Evo 5 wheels I bought months ago, and man did they turn out m i n t. Painted in Nissan Titanium Grey (KAC), they're a dark almost gunmetal silver/grey, but when the sun hits them you get this lovely bronze-y colour to them and it looks awesome.
So what fpr are you using?
Also, is your pump rewired to run high voltage from idle?
I'm working on my fuel setup at the moment. I hit 400hp on mustang dyno readout and my 255 walbro ran out of fuel plus my 1150cc were getting close to 100% cycle
No i have 2150cc plus 460 walbro but i run stock evo dual voltage which was good for about 20psi. (Lower voltage at idle helps lower the base pressure. I am still using stock fpr) Anything above that car would lean out from 5500rpm to 13:1 afr. I also have that jet venturi efect pipe drilled biger.
Now I setup pressure swich that at 15psi triggers relay that turns on pump rewire setup and no more issues with top end. Getting more than enough fuel all the way to red line.
Last thing i swaped is new radium fuel rail with supply rubber hose replacement plus fuel damper to help stop bad pulse caused by big injectors.
Also, is your pump rewired to run high voltage from idle?
I'm working on my fuel setup at the moment. I hit 400hp on mustang dyno readout and my 255 walbro ran out of fuel plus my 1150cc were getting close to 100% cycle
No i have 2150cc plus 460 walbro but i run stock evo dual voltage which was good for about 20psi. (Lower voltage at idle helps lower the base pressure. I am still using stock fpr) Anything above that car would lean out from 5500rpm to 13:1 afr. I also have that jet venturi efect pipe drilled biger.
Now I setup pressure swich that at 15psi triggers relay that turns on pump rewire setup and no more issues with top end. Getting more than enough fuel all the way to red line.
Last thing i swaped is new radium fuel rail with supply rubber hose replacement plus fuel damper to help stop bad pulse caused by big injectors.
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Post #73 suggests a Radium FPR....
Hey BodenBodenM said:
I'm relatively new to the HSGR club myself and amusingly (or annoyingly), I've experienced the exact same issues that you have mentioned and in the same order! Only difference being that my clutch felt OK, then all of an sudden the master cylinder was empty and wouldn't go into gear, so got the car home, rebuilt the master cylinder and still no dice. Like you said, there is more than enough throw on the slave hydraulics, which I measured through all clutch master rod adjustments. This netted me a total of +9mm travel from the lowest point of adjustment once you engaged the pedal.
So, I'm currently stripping out the engine bay in prep for transmission removal and hopefully pinpoint this issue.
What I was keen to find out was where you picked up your clutch kit and what your general opinion is since you've installed it?
My car is never going to be anything other than a daily, so I'm trying to keep options as sensible as possible.
Cheers!
