any one know how battrey in boot mods works
- Thread starter bryan3976
- Start date
Help Support 4GTuner:
http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_110776/article.html dw found it out
andy's-galant
VR4 A'Spec
I reckon a small dry cell battery will make heaps of room in the engine bay, you can relocate it to your likeing as they are small.
turbovr4
Well-Known Member
you will need minimum 400 cca, cold cranking amps.and you can buy a battery box from supercheap,then you have to vent the box to outside,I did one when i put a vr4 motor in my 88 TN magana elite.Even with a large lead to the front a small battery like the original would only crank for 40secs and start getting flat,
Replying in my lunch break at work so please forgive me if some of it doesnt make sense lol :lol:
Battery relocation to the boot is pretty easy actually. I was originally umming and arring to do it myself but had to do it because of a custom airbox installation behind the front headlight. I ran my 2G cable along the driver's side of the car from the starter motor. The wiring in the engine bay is easy to tidy up in conduit for the conversion too. Take a good look at where the factory positive cables go, starter motor, fuse box etc. You'll find by removing and joining some of them together you can clean it right up and hide it in conduit. When you have it sorted in your engine bay, remove the front driver's side fender and run the large positive cable through the grommet next to the engine bay main fuse box (if you have a grommet there as I think only evo's did but it doesnt matter).
Then, (see pic below), under the fender you can see how the factory loom ties to the chassis rail over the front wheel and enters the firewall above the accelerator pedal. Run the thick cable along the same line and cable tie it securely!! Use long cable ties and bend them to get them through existing holes to help hold it up over the wheel nice and tight against the chassis rail. Then feed the cable through the rubber grommet through the firewall til it pokes inside above the accelerator pedal. The rest is simply running it under the carpet, under the seats, all the way to the boot. You will find spaces where the thick cable can fit through to make its way all the way out the back near the rear taillights.
Buy a marine grade battery box from Super Cheap Auto. Also buy a strap with a clip on it and a cheap $8 battery bracket. You dont want the 2 x J-rods that come in the battery holder kit, only the black bracket that clamps on top of the battery to hold it down. I then buy a length of threaded stainless steel rod to use instead of the J-bolts. You can adjust the height of them no matter what size battery you end up using. I also grabbed 4 x stainless washers and nuts. Use Nyloc nuts if you prefer. Dont cut the rod lengths yet.
Position the box where you want to in the back of the car, get someone to hold it in place, then get underneath the car ready to drill upwards through the floor.
I found a hole inside one of the rear chassis rails in the back of the coupe, a hole about the size of a 20 cent piece as a good point to drill up through. It was in the right spot for me.
Once you drill that first hole up through the floor and battery box, just feed the long length threaded bar down through the hole to hold the battery box in place loosely. Ensure that you square the box up and line up a straight line ready for your 2nd hole, then simply drill your second hole through a flat spot in the boot floor (a flat spot is obviously important for your washer to rest against).
Now that you have 2 x holes through the floor and battery box, place your battery in position and work out a good height to cut 2 x lengths of rod, whilst still being able to put the lid of the battery box on.
Put your strap under the battery box, then battery box on, battery in place, black holder and 2 x rods through and simply use washers and nuts to hold it down.
Look for a good spot in the back of the car to run an earth to. The strut tower looked like a good spot for me but I think I had an issue with it not being good enough and moved it elsewhere.
Your positive terminal needs to have a fuse or a circuit breaker as close as possible to the terminal as a fail-safe. You might also like to add a battery cut off switch... its your own personal preference what to do there but DO NOT run positive cable without some sort of failsafe within the first 30cm from the battery.
This thread might interest you from when I did mine. Might be some useful info in there somewhere: http://www.evocoupe.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1952&p=40320&hilit=circuit+breaker#p40320
My brother and I also bought some MDF, made a template in 4 pieces for a boot floor, then covered all the pieces in carpet. Worked out well and provided a bit more support for the battery base.
Here's a quick pic of the floor sections. Each piece when dropped into position butts up nice and firm against eachother so there's minimal movement. The middle large piece has a notch cut out of it so you can pop a finger in and lift it up to access the spare wheel.
Pic of front fender removed. Follow the same path as the factory wiring above the wheel and through the grommet in the firewall. Thick gauge power cable was insulated in conduit can be seen laying on the ground
And my no-frills battery to boot install. Neat, tidy and no subwoofers! :w00t:
Leaves more room up front for an airbox and 4" intake! :thumbsup:
Battery relocation to the boot is pretty easy actually. I was originally umming and arring to do it myself but had to do it because of a custom airbox installation behind the front headlight. I ran my 2G cable along the driver's side of the car from the starter motor. The wiring in the engine bay is easy to tidy up in conduit for the conversion too. Take a good look at where the factory positive cables go, starter motor, fuse box etc. You'll find by removing and joining some of them together you can clean it right up and hide it in conduit. When you have it sorted in your engine bay, remove the front driver's side fender and run the large positive cable through the grommet next to the engine bay main fuse box (if you have a grommet there as I think only evo's did but it doesnt matter).
Then, (see pic below), under the fender you can see how the factory loom ties to the chassis rail over the front wheel and enters the firewall above the accelerator pedal. Run the thick cable along the same line and cable tie it securely!! Use long cable ties and bend them to get them through existing holes to help hold it up over the wheel nice and tight against the chassis rail. Then feed the cable through the rubber grommet through the firewall til it pokes inside above the accelerator pedal. The rest is simply running it under the carpet, under the seats, all the way to the boot. You will find spaces where the thick cable can fit through to make its way all the way out the back near the rear taillights.
Buy a marine grade battery box from Super Cheap Auto. Also buy a strap with a clip on it and a cheap $8 battery bracket. You dont want the 2 x J-rods that come in the battery holder kit, only the black bracket that clamps on top of the battery to hold it down. I then buy a length of threaded stainless steel rod to use instead of the J-bolts. You can adjust the height of them no matter what size battery you end up using. I also grabbed 4 x stainless washers and nuts. Use Nyloc nuts if you prefer. Dont cut the rod lengths yet.
Position the box where you want to in the back of the car, get someone to hold it in place, then get underneath the car ready to drill upwards through the floor.
I found a hole inside one of the rear chassis rails in the back of the coupe, a hole about the size of a 20 cent piece as a good point to drill up through. It was in the right spot for me.
Once you drill that first hole up through the floor and battery box, just feed the long length threaded bar down through the hole to hold the battery box in place loosely. Ensure that you square the box up and line up a straight line ready for your 2nd hole, then simply drill your second hole through a flat spot in the boot floor (a flat spot is obviously important for your washer to rest against).
Now that you have 2 x holes through the floor and battery box, place your battery in position and work out a good height to cut 2 x lengths of rod, whilst still being able to put the lid of the battery box on.
Put your strap under the battery box, then battery box on, battery in place, black holder and 2 x rods through and simply use washers and nuts to hold it down.
Look for a good spot in the back of the car to run an earth to. The strut tower looked like a good spot for me but I think I had an issue with it not being good enough and moved it elsewhere.
Your positive terminal needs to have a fuse or a circuit breaker as close as possible to the terminal as a fail-safe. You might also like to add a battery cut off switch... its your own personal preference what to do there but DO NOT run positive cable without some sort of failsafe within the first 30cm from the battery.
This thread might interest you from when I did mine. Might be some useful info in there somewhere: http://www.evocoupe.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1952&p=40320&hilit=circuit+breaker#p40320
My brother and I also bought some MDF, made a template in 4 pieces for a boot floor, then covered all the pieces in carpet. Worked out well and provided a bit more support for the battery base.
Here's a quick pic of the floor sections. Each piece when dropped into position butts up nice and firm against eachother so there's minimal movement. The middle large piece has a notch cut out of it so you can pop a finger in and lift it up to access the spare wheel.
Pic of front fender removed. Follow the same path as the factory wiring above the wheel and through the grommet in the firewall. Thick gauge power cable was insulated in conduit can be seen laying on the ground
And my no-frills battery to boot install. Neat, tidy and no subwoofers! :w00t:
Leaves more room up front for an airbox and 4" intake! :thumbsup:
boostboy76
Member
Now that's how you do things properly!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Love the Ray's too!
Love the Ray's too!
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
To do this mod in Queensland and have it 100% legal, you need to use a battery box that seals when the lid is on it and then vent the battery box with a tube to the outside of the vehicle. This applies whether you have a lead acid battery or a sealed battery as they both emit gas when being charged. Some Panasonic sealed batteries and Optimas have a hole in the side of them to run a vent tube from. If using those, then a battery box is not needed.
Forgot to mention that Ive got a fully sealed Optima yellow top battery in mine (no spills).
The bootspace in CC coupes already have large vents in the quarter panels that vent out on either side of the rear bumper (see pic below at large rectangle hole with rubber flaps behind where the rear bumper goes). I cant remember for sure but its the same for the CC sedans too yes?
The bootspace in CC coupes already have large vents in the quarter panels that vent out on either side of the rear bumper (see pic below at large rectangle hole with rubber flaps behind where the rear bumper goes). I cant remember for sure but its the same for the CC sedans too yes?
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
But do you also have vents from the boot into the cabin of the car through the rear seats (fold down seats?) or rear parcel shelf. That was the response I rec'd some some Dept of Transport guys up here.
My wife's MX5's has a sealed Panasonic batery in boot, vented through a tube to the outside of the car. I'll try to take a pic tonight.
My wife's MX5's has a sealed Panasonic batery in boot, vented through a tube to the outside of the car. I'll try to take a pic tonight.
The cabins arent air-tight by any means. Bloody smartass Dept of Transport guys in QLD lol. In NSW it just has to be in a non spill, well secured, and acid proof battery box with a strap. A hose to vent the battery vent to the car vent would be easy enough to add though for anybody requiring to do it. Just some extra info from Optima about their batteries and gassing:
What is a Gel Cell Battery? Is OPTIMA a gel battery?
A gel battery design is typically a modification of the standard lead-acid automotive or marine battery. A gelling agent is added to the electrolyte to reduce movement inside the battery case. Many gel batteries also use one way valves in place of open vents, which helps the normal internal gasses to recombine back into water in the battery, reducing gassing.
An OPTIMA battery is not a "gel" battery or regular flooded acid battery. An OPTIMA is a Spiralcell AGM battery.
Does an OPTIMA battery ever gas?
When used with a properly regulated constant voltage charging system (such as an alternator) the OPTIMA will usually not emit hydrogen gas. However, gassing can occur when charging at higher voltage levels or in extreme high temperature conditions. In automotive applications this typically will not happen if the alternator/regulator stay below 15 volts.
What is a Gel Cell Battery? Is OPTIMA a gel battery?
A gel battery design is typically a modification of the standard lead-acid automotive or marine battery. A gelling agent is added to the electrolyte to reduce movement inside the battery case. Many gel batteries also use one way valves in place of open vents, which helps the normal internal gasses to recombine back into water in the battery, reducing gassing.
An OPTIMA battery is not a "gel" battery or regular flooded acid battery. An OPTIMA is a Spiralcell AGM battery.
Does an OPTIMA battery ever gas?
When used with a properly regulated constant voltage charging system (such as an alternator) the OPTIMA will usually not emit hydrogen gas. However, gassing can occur when charging at higher voltage levels or in extreme high temperature conditions. In automotive applications this typically will not happen if the alternator/regulator stay below 15 volts.
sooo... if running an optima, do you need a sealed box and vent it outside?
I thought they never emitted gas, but reading that its "possible" but not under normal conditions. I really only care to stay legal.
Do they have the hole in the side to plug a tube into?
If they do i can stick with the vented box and run the venting line outside the car?
(Im about to order one and re do my battery box as well.)
Also the DIN series batteries have the vent hole on the side if people want a cheaper alternative, a century is about $200 for a 500cca battery. battery world were cheap about 160 i remember.
I thought they never emitted gas, but reading that its "possible" but not under normal conditions. I really only care to stay legal.
Do they have the hole in the side to plug a tube into?
If they do i can stick with the vented box and run the venting line outside the car?
(Im about to order one and re do my battery box as well.)
Also the DIN series batteries have the vent hole on the side if people want a cheaper alternative, a century is about $200 for a 500cca battery. battery world were cheap about 160 i remember.
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