Automatic Transmission Upgrades

4GTuner

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Wow... flying off handle ya reckon, well im still trying to figure out where...

teltra having wifi phone booths has no influence on how I see 4g thus nothing to do with the price of said fish, but as you were only helping me jamo, gee what can I say, thanks? your just too dam helpful?? lol righto
oh FYI, me flying off the handle would involve a strongly worded pm and a call out, an jamo, maybe try answer without the..... Its a smart arse tactic of having a passive dig and then taking the high road of "just trying to help" or as posted, "just answering ya question" when anyone says something back.
Again, not flying off the handle, just being honest
 
Settle down boys. BTW, I am on work camp for 3 weeks, no full version and no WiFi at all. Plenty of excuses for me....
 
Anyway, just been emailing with kiggly as the quoting wasnt working and they are awesome people to deal with, orders put in so now just gotta get onto ipt,

Edit: An hour after emailing kiggly with payment details, I have an email to say its waiting to be picked up for its trip over here, that's good shit to get it sent out before the weekend,

Also 2nd gear band, who and where??
And, when does the std torque converter start to become an issue?
 
Any high stall T/C can balloon and put heaps of pressure on the crank if it's not designed/reinforced correctly. Some of the manufacturers have a ring attached to them to stop this. I think it's only an issue in really high HP situations regarding our T/Cs.

Another thing to consider is the flex plate, I believe Kiggly has strengthened ones available.

I have 4.2k written on my T/C from when I picked it up from aldo so I'm assuming it is to the same spec as his. Fully braised and can be brake stalled to 4k, it was hard to tell what the flash stall was, but brake stall is usually lower.

You really want to get a stall made to suit the turbo, get it to fit right into the sweet spot, if you have a stocker go with a dry 50 shot like Jack mentioned, or do a combo like this ↓

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKZBZe9FN5E

Oh and I forgot to mention, make sure you check with who is building your box, the tabs on the std bands can let you down if there is really grippy friction material on the bands. I would elaborate but I'm sworn to
secrecy regarding Aldo's specs :p
 
Yea once I get everything together ill be hitting aldo up to see if he'd put it together, its all those little things that no one else knows about that make him the top of my list, might have to try get in contact with him soon.

And big power isnt the top of my list, looking initially at around 400hp tops, but I want the box to be strong enough for down shifting and regular abuse but being a daily I didnt really want a too higher stall, which has got me leaning toward the eliminator t/c, whats it like driving a 4k stall, like as in crawing along at 20km?
An yea, what jack said is really making more sense, (thanks jack) didn't think you were serious but now its a strong contender,
What about the double flex plate? Is it literally 2 flex plates bolted on together?
 
A 4k stall means any mild acceleration will require near 3k revs to go. So driving up a hill on a street in town will require 3k+ revs. Not really very fun, quiet or economical. Well maybe fun.
you would hear v8 boys with high stalls running around town. All revs and not much action. Till they go full throttle that is.
Yep, double flex plates is just that. Bolt 2 together. Should be enough at 400hp at crank.
 
MrConsistent said:
Talk to Rockabilly, AKA Aldo does the best builds for forum members only I'm running 300awkw hope for 400 ish after re-tune and the box handles it fine :thumbsup:
Fast changes and all the supporting work to the internals to hold it together....
Hi mate, Aldo mentioned that your running a borg warner turbo?
If so, which one are you running and what's the spool like?
 
Yea, thats what I thought, I was up at a car show and alot of the felahs who had a hi stall were stabbing at the throttle out of the car park, didnt like that although they thought they were pretty cool,
awesome about the flex plate too, so are all 7 bolt w4a33 and k4a33 felx plates the same, what about the t/c?
 
Everything in this game is compromise, it comes down to what you're willing to live with/enjoy. A hi-stall can be a PITA for everyday driving for some people and great for others.
I have owned a peripheral port RX7 with an unsprung brass button clutch as a daily city driver, so what I would consider smooth and tame will be vastly different to others.

I'm not sure how a double flex-plate works or how it will stop ballooning of the TC with a high power setup. I'd recommend some research on your end before I went with that. I would think that given the small diameter of the oem TC
that ballooning might only be an issue with really high power as some guys are running some big numbers with a std box and TC.

T/C needs braising at the least for longevity and there are some things that can be done to raise the stall while it's apart
 
I've been looking at heaps of dsm threads but alot of them just send theirs to a shop so its been alot of wasted time thats why I ask here knowing theres some good autos getting round on here, im hoping to not waste so much
and good to know about ballooning, thanks, the engine in the rvr wont be getting pushed... maybe a bit, but I do have all the block components for a forged long rod so I wanna build a auto to suit, especially cos I dont trust the old owners claims now
And from what I understand a double flex plate will help prevent elongating the 4 mounting holes, more needed if ya had ahigh stall with alot of torque locking up, im unsure of how a single would go being fed nos to get it into boost?
I'm thinking this would be a good route as it would be good to be able to drive through a booze bus without all the popo eyeing me off
 
Guys double the flex plate to combat breaking in very high horsepower situations. Unless you are going all out I wouldn't bother.
Have a read of this, nut a bad article.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/0808rc-torque-converters/
I'm going to use a spark cut setup to help hold mine on the brakes and to help keep the transfer gear alive as you can retard timing and reduce torque on the line by a lot.
When you get off the brakes you get all the torque back and off you go!
To help hold it on the brakes I'd look into a vacuum pump as well.
This is the one that I have.
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-20804130-Original-Equipment-Auxiliary/dp/B0049HEJFW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437222749&sr=8-1&keywords=ACDelco+20804130+GM+Original+Equipment+Power+Brake+Booster+Auxiliary+Pump+Assembly
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Well the pump i was looking for is one on the back of a diesel altenator. I want a variable voltage alt too. Havent found anything suitable yet. Any clues anyone?

Plenty of the newer diesel cars have electric vacuum pumps tho.

The good thing about the kiggly flex plates is that they have extra converter bolt holes. So you can weld a heap more mounts on the converter.

na converters are different, less holes on flex plate. Different flex plate as well.
 
A mate has a 10 sec xr6 turbo.
High stall, 3 speed.

Great for racing. Sucks for daily.
High revs just to start moving.

Keep up the good work on getting info.
I'll try and apply to the fwd auto I'll be building.
 
Tim, you are a gun, exactly the stuff I'm after thank you- answers, info, and ideas! I'm gunna need to have another read through that article but that helped me better understand the dynamics, and those pumps are a good price! Probably should jump on the band wagon with that
And I like the spark cut setup your doing, I'll look into it more before I ask any dumb questions, lol, but if I'm getting it right then that's fricken awesome for a daily used car, combined with dual map ecu and switchable tcu... wow,
 

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