blowing blue/white smoke

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xjokux

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Some might of read a previous I post about oil pressure and how my car already blows smoke. I know its oil because i have a leak at the dumpipe to front exhaust where oil seep out. Coolant levels hasn't drop nor the oil milkshake color.

So I've based that its not the turbo because I have disconnected the feed oil line, cleaned it out and ran the engine for a few minutes. The smoke still blows.

Obviously now its a internal problem. It doesn't smoke on idle but WOT in first gear (alot - enough to make my car disappear). I've eliminated the valve stem seals and left with headgasket and rings.

I don't know enough to know about internal components to know what's really normal. I've taken a few pictures hopefully to help me on this situation.

Below are the cylinders but I notice the vertical scratch. They are very minimum scratch. Some you can't feel them and others are marginally noticeable with your nails. The headgasket seems to be doing its job sealing its surroundings.

Engine is new with forged internals.


 
If higher lift cams were fitted, were the valve stem seals replaced & the valve stems cleaned up ?
Old stain build up on the valve stems kill valve stem seals quickly because of the higher lift cams.
That will blow white smoke when it heats up. Cheers !
 
Sounds like turbo to me. Wouldn't think it was valve stems if it's smoking at wot. Usually stems smoke at idle or initial acceleration.can u borrow a turbo off someone to try out
 
If higher lift cams were fitted, were the valve stem seals replaced & the valve stems cleaned up ?
Old stain build up on the valve stems kill valve stem seals quickly because of the higher lift cams.
That will blow white smoke when it heats up. Cheers !

Ive got 280 cams but new valve stems.

Sounds like turbo to me. Wouldn't think it was valve stems if it's smoking at wot. Usually stems smoke at idle or initial acceleration.can u borrow a turbo off someone to try out

I've swapped turbo already from 16g initially to 14b, both were rebuilt for this situation.
 
How long have you had the motor running to let the oil burn out ? it takes a good drive/heat to get the exhaust clean after a blown turbo...

Edit: I cant see the pics of the Bores.. Photobucket is failing me !!
 
Did you check compression before you pulled the head off?
Looks like it could be plain old bad blowby or a cracked piston ring land giving you grief.
Was the bore with the scratch in it filthy as? If it was, its gotta be the ring land.
 
How long have you had the motor running to let the oil burn out ? it takes a good drive/heat to get the exhaust clean after a blown turbo...

Edit: I cant see the pics of the Bores.. Photobucket is failing me !!

I've let it idle for bout 15mins still blows past the 3500 - 4000. Also holding it at 3000 to heat things up quicker for 5mins


Did you check compression before you pulled the head off?
Looks like it could be plain old bad blowby or a cracked piston ring land giving you grief.
Was the bore with the scratch in it filthy as? If it was, its gotta be the ring land.

compression is 140 psi on all 4 except cylinder 2 was 3-5psi lower. The bore as clean and shiny. The car been driven but happen probably few months afterwards.
Oil soaked in you exhaust continuing to burn off?

How is your pvc?


I thought maybe my cat is stuffed with oil and won't burn off. I've got a catch can from the 2 pvc back to intake which is clean - no oil residue.
 
the smoke isnt residue left in the exhaust. i initially thought that until i saw the smoke. moment he drives you lose sight through the smoke. the motor was never run in.
 
Yea.. it never really left the garAge cause it wasn't running properly. Though I think I drove it before the rebuild. I don't remember - wasn't long before I took it out again.
 
Do you still have the pvc or is it an open fitting?

Does that catch can vent to atmo or back to you intake?
 
Try and remove the pvc (unscrew), replace with a barb, run to atmo with a hose (temporarily).

See if it still does it.
 
Similar to what baz is asking, but a different way to test...
At idle, remove oil filler cap. Place piece of paper over filler hole. Does paper suck down or blow up.

Has engine ever been overheated after rebuild?
What was ring gap when engine was built?
Maybe oil rings are not put in correct
 
The head is off atm so might be difficult to test it right now. Wouldnt be so hard to place back cause I removed the head with inlet/manifold as one.

Nothing over 100'c I had heating issue with the honda radiator but fixed it with a better fan and redline coolant.

I didn't gap the rings on rebuild.
 
A dry compression test followed by a wet compression test would be real handy now.

But I thinkit will need new rings and a light hone. I think either some rings are wrong installed, rings gapped wide or too narrow.

Do you know the piston to bore clearance? Or was it bored at rebuild?
What was done to the block at rebuild time?
 

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