I have a 1990 GSR Galant with the twin cam engine and is 5spd man... its as zippy as hell and revs out lovely....but would like to squeeze more out of her...its stock as a rock including exhaust and manifold atm and well maintained (ive included pics so you can see why i wanna keep it as its in mint cond)... any thoughts or suggestions? Can anything be done to get more from the stock engine...? should I go turbo? or engine swap? im not after a monster... im just after a bit more punch... if i went turbo to the current engine and setup ... being FWD could be interesting... but if not going crazy with boost i guess it would be fine and less hassle than a full engine swap... also, doing a turbo conversion or an engine swap... whats the legal side of it in SA?? does it need to go through regency or some sort of compliance etc? And any idea on costs involved for each of the options...? Any thoughts out there...has any one travelled this road??
Boosting a 4g63 na
- Thread starter GSR Hulk
- Start date
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EV0300
Well-Known Member
first thing i'd do is open it up abit with extracters and an exhaust, also depends on how much your willing to spend.
JayRome
Blurring the line between 1st to 3rd Gen engines..
lol thanks G,
your options are:
hyper N/a
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=H73LawTG-LU
Supercharged N/A:
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=Pd9FZk3uio8
or Turbo'd Hyper N/A:
pick a topic and i can elaborate more on them
your options are:
hyper N/a
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=H73LawTG-LU
Supercharged N/A:
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=Pd9FZk3uio8
or Turbo'd Hyper N/A:
pick a topic and i can elaborate more on them
WOW!!! JayRome... thats insane!!! at this stage...nothing too crazy... and i think if i ever decide to go turbo... i will sus out a VR4...thats already turbo and go from there.. less dramas with the whole compliance and regency saga that way... ive been there and done that with and R31 silhouette skyline that had a legalised RB20DET....was crazy power...but by the end of it...it wouldve been cheaper to just buy a turbo coupe version and go from there...compliance is a nightmare and costs lots a coin!! So with that said... I reckon I Will go the NA route.... so Jayrome whats the go for a progressive build? To give you the correct starting point... The engine has so far done 300,000kms but was freshened up at about 270,000kms and is tight and running sweet as...no leaks whatsoever.. it has had the timing belt etc all done, gearbox freshened up, clutch etc... but...the car is STOCK standard - and everything ever fixed has been done with factory parts. So...extractors? exhaust? where will i find em? and how much you reckon? also things like performance leads, plugs etc...wheres the best place to get the gear?? Im still learning with the mitsi....as im an old skyline man previously. (but i made the switch to reliability..lol)... so any help is appreciated muchly.
JayRome
Blurring the line between 1st to 3rd Gen engines..
actually mitsu is easy (cause almost all mitsu's have parts that interchange) so to begin.... going hyper N/A but using your stock engine...
first things first exhaust/extractors:
id stay away from Genie, pacemaker etc as they just make generic extractors (i have had a set of each and they were both shit house! quality out side looked great, cut it up and internals were a nightmare for flow) a good start to would be to contact RPW. they make a set of 4-1 tuned length in house, and they have experience with mitsu engines...
link:http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php
next is your choice in regards to exhaust size. (extractors back with high flow cats and mufflers)
2" exhaust will give you close to standard power but better bottom to mid range response, but other wise stock drive ability.
2.25" (would not go any bigger then this for stock 2lt) would give you alot more mid to top response, meaning you will have to rev it more to get grunt. you can tend to loose fuel econ cause of this though, but gain it in other aspects of power.
Muffler choice:
in either case in above, i would suggest shoving 2 proper sized free flow mufflers on the car. offset in and center out. you can fit it, so long as you have a exhaust shop that has the experience in making a good custom exhaust. also remember, it may cost more but ask them to put in more flange points on your exhaust, our cars take a very strange route around the fuel tank, having flange points will help you if you need to change/mod/adapt anything later down the track. also please stay away from cannons there out of fashion
cams:
simple upgrade would be to get VR4 cams (turbo variant) to give you a more linear power curve, but you loose that kick in the pants that N/A give you at 3-4.5kRPM.
264/264 also good upgrade for n/a but comes at a price..
Tuning: double check what type of ecu you have first.
Dual board (big chunky ass goldish box 2 boards inside, well duh) good ecu for cruising and stop start, hates a lot of mods though, but mad on fuel econ
Single board (half the size of above) good ecu for mods, sheit house on fuel but that can be fixed, works very well with Apexi SAFC for tuning the air flow input
Ignition/electrical etc:
Leads and such aren't so much of a big deal with N/A's but you can order better leads on ebay (probably cheapest form EBAY US) spiral core, NGK, Bosch etc.
Make sure spark plug gaps are the same and to specs
Change the oxygen sensor, depending on which version GSR you have its either a 4 wire or a single wire unit. they are old and most likely stopped working by now
simple mods:
K & N filter
piss off the plastic pipe thats attached from your air box to your rad
piss off the plastic square-ish shaped container attached to your air box just behind the battery
piss off the plastic piping that attaches the air box to just behind the drivers side head light (sits between the fender and the battery if your facing the engine bay, also has a lil flap with a warning just above the drivers side head lite too)
weight reduction:
if you still have the Air Ride (ECS) suspension but none of it is even working, or you have changed to Pedders conversion kit (as it was to expensive to fix the stupid design air suspension). find the air compressor should be under either the front end of drivers side of passenger side (i forget which side lol) and rip the fukker out! remember to take out the fuse first.. wait that should have been first lol..... you can also get rid of all the valves located in front of your compliance/vin/car details on the fire wall... there are more in the boot with an ECU but i dont remember which side they were on its been that long....
keep then engine bay simple, it makes it easier to fix later down the track.... trust me!
hope this is enough info and i didnt miss anything.. any questions just post away..... after power you can always go for handling,bracing ,5 stud conversion, body work.. your call i can talk you though it..
bay piks
exhaust styles for Galant GSR, comon be a lil different!!
first things first exhaust/extractors:
id stay away from Genie, pacemaker etc as they just make generic extractors (i have had a set of each and they were both shit house! quality out side looked great, cut it up and internals were a nightmare for flow) a good start to would be to contact RPW. they make a set of 4-1 tuned length in house, and they have experience with mitsu engines...
link:http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php
next is your choice in regards to exhaust size. (extractors back with high flow cats and mufflers)
2" exhaust will give you close to standard power but better bottom to mid range response, but other wise stock drive ability.
2.25" (would not go any bigger then this for stock 2lt) would give you alot more mid to top response, meaning you will have to rev it more to get grunt. you can tend to loose fuel econ cause of this though, but gain it in other aspects of power.
Muffler choice:
in either case in above, i would suggest shoving 2 proper sized free flow mufflers on the car. offset in and center out. you can fit it, so long as you have a exhaust shop that has the experience in making a good custom exhaust. also remember, it may cost more but ask them to put in more flange points on your exhaust, our cars take a very strange route around the fuel tank, having flange points will help you if you need to change/mod/adapt anything later down the track. also please stay away from cannons there out of fashion
cams:
simple upgrade would be to get VR4 cams (turbo variant) to give you a more linear power curve, but you loose that kick in the pants that N/A give you at 3-4.5kRPM.
264/264 also good upgrade for n/a but comes at a price..
Tuning: double check what type of ecu you have first.
Dual board (big chunky ass goldish box 2 boards inside, well duh
) good ecu for cruising and stop start, hates a lot of mods though, but mad on fuel econSingle board (half the size of above) good ecu for mods, sheit house on fuel but that can be fixed, works very well with Apexi SAFC for tuning the air flow input
Ignition/electrical etc:
Leads and such aren't so much of a big deal with N/A's but you can order better leads on ebay (probably cheapest form EBAY US) spiral core, NGK, Bosch etc.
Make sure spark plug gaps are the same and to specs
Change the oxygen sensor, depending on which version GSR you have its either a 4 wire or a single wire unit. they are old and most likely stopped working by now
simple mods:
K & N filter
piss off the plastic pipe thats attached from your air box to your rad
piss off the plastic square-ish shaped container attached to your air box just behind the battery
piss off the plastic piping that attaches the air box to just behind the drivers side head light (sits between the fender and the battery if your facing the engine bay, also has a lil flap with a warning just above the drivers side head lite too)
weight reduction:
if you still have the Air Ride (ECS) suspension but none of it is even working, or you have changed to Pedders conversion kit (as it was to expensive to fix the stupid design air suspension). find the air compressor should be under either the front end of drivers side of passenger side (i forget which side lol) and rip the fukker out! remember to take out the fuse first.. wait that should have been first lol..... you can also get rid of all the valves located in front of your compliance/vin/car details on the fire wall... there are more in the boot with an ECU but i dont remember which side they were on its been that long....
keep then engine bay simple, it makes it easier to fix later down the track.... trust me!
hope this is enough info and i didnt miss anything.. any questions just post away..... after power you can always go for handling,bracing ,5 stud conversion, body work.. your call i can talk you though it..
bay piks
exhaust styles for Galant GSR, comon be a lil different!!
So true Gianni!!! so true.... far out JayRome...thats insane... did you work for mitsubishi or something??? your wealth of knowledge is IMPRESSIVE!!! Im glad youve been able to walk me through it...and i can now see the light at the end of the tunnel... maybe its where i live...not sure.. dont really see any GSRs or VR4s here....so its all a bit new tuning and mods wise... ive prev been a skyline man...and there millions here..so gettin info, parts for sale etc... piece of cake.... Still, it will be very nice to have a ride thats a bit different....and it is hell comfy...cold aircon, lush seats, power everything...etc... so im looking forward to it. And JayRome... you will be my go to guy for info and advice... im sure I will need the help...lol. you know mine has the original casette stereo unit with graphic equalizer and CD input...and it ALL actually works Sweet for a factory unit...and i plug my ipod nano into the CD input and the tunes crank.... gotta love it!!! and i have no plans to update as it does the job and sounds pretty phat. Also if this helps with mods list etc... mine is a 1990 GSR Galant (november), is a HH i believe, and the suspension air thing has all been disconnected for pedders, i changed the rear lights so that it had the later model clear/pink colour instead of bright orange... and PLEASE FORGIVE ME.... where is the ECU located???? in the skylines its the kick panel on passenger front side.... where in the galant?? normally im pretty good at this, but the mitsi is a bit foreign for me.... sorry peoples...
JayRome
Blurring the line between 1st to 3rd Gen engines..
nah i'm just a back yard builder.... i'll mod anything really...
ECU is the same spot as must jap cars its just wedged further up the cavity, should be 2 bolts holding it up there (12mm spanner) and 3 yellow terminals going into it in 3 stepped sizes...
ECU is the same spot as must jap cars its just wedged further up the cavity, should be 2 bolts holding it up there (12mm spanner) and 3 yellow terminals going into it in 3 stepped sizes...
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