Brake Bias on Evo 3

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7zark7

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Joined
Feb 24, 2009
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Perth, NOR
Hi All,
Does anyone know if it's possible to change the front to rear brake bias on a standard Evo 3 ABS system?
 
is on the firewall below the master cylinder, has the (rear?) brake lines plumbed into it. im not sure of its internal workings, but i suspect it basically is a rear brake pressure limiter. Surely it does this by a internal spring and check ball, and is adjustable by the spring tension.
but, if so, how do you tune it?
 
found this:
"Professionals" do it by trial and error too, even while in the middle of a race. In a race car you put the proportioning valve in the cockpit so it can be adjusted on the fly as conditions change.

It's easiest to do it with a friend who can stand, at a safe distance, outside and let you know for sure if that tire that locked up is a front or a rear.

Make sure it's done on dry pavement also. On wet pavement optimal bias is slightly more to the rear than on dry.

If you dial it in on wet pavement, you're going to have too much rear bias on dry pavement.

EDIT: It's also important what technique you use. If you "stab" the brakes you're going to lock up the fronts prematurely because you'll lock them before you get any weight transfer.

Make sure you start your braking firmly but smoothly to let the car's weight transfer to the front, then continue to add pressure until you get a tire to lock briefly and then ease up and come to normal stop. Hopefully your observer outside will be able to tell you which tire locked up.

If you can't find a friend, and all your tires are the same size. On thing you can do is mark all 4 tires with chalk or something, at 12 o'clock on each. Make sure you are going in a straight line. Once you've locked a tire up briefly and come to a normal stop. The tire who's mark isn't in the same position as the rest is the one that locked.
 
is on the firewall below the master cylinder, has the (rear?) brake lines plumbed into it. im not sure of its internal workings, but i suspect it basically is a rear brake pressure limiter. Surely it does this by a internal spring and check ball, and is adjustable by the spring tension.
but, if so, how do you tune it?

Ok I'll have a look
found this:
"Professionals" do it by trial and error too, even while in the middle of a race. In a race car you put the proportioning valve in the cockpit so it can be adjusted on the fly as conditions change.

It's easiest to do it with a friend who can stand, at a safe distance, outside and let you know for sure if that tire that locked up is a front or a rear.

Make sure it's done on dry pavement also. On wet pavement optimal bias is slightly more to the rear than on dry.

If you dial it in on wet pavement, you're going to have too much rear bias on dry pavement.

EDIT: It's also important what technique you use. If you "stab" the brakes you're going to lock up the fronts prematurely because you'll lock them before you get any weight transfer.

Make sure you start your braking firmly but smoothly to let the car's weight transfer to the front, then continue to add pressure until you get a tire to lock briefly and then ease up and come to normal stop. Hopefully your observer outside will be able to tell you which tire locked up.

If you can't find a friend, and all your tires are the same size. On thing you can do is mark all 4 tires with chalk or something, at 12 o'clock on each. Make sure you are going in a straight line. Once you've locked a tire up briefly and come to a normal stop. The tire who's mark isn't in the same position as the rest is the one that locked.

Yeah I'm aware that they do it by trial and error, long process :(
I'll be fitting bigger brakes on the front without touching the rears (for the moment anyway) so i'm fairly sure they will need some adjustment
I know with my TME that the "Brake Circuits" are plumbed so that they run diagonally. eg FR is linked to RL. Any idea if it's the same on the CE models?
 
Had mine adjusted by the brake shop when they fitted my EVO VI Brembos and the standard rears. Balance is perfect :)
 
Did they fit an aftermarket valve or use the factory one? I'm looking at fitting a bias setup to mine in the near future.
 
like this :)

7ee85d79.jpg
 
Yeah that would be what i'm after ...... eventually :)
But for now i just have the standard unit (will be deleting the brake booster too)

I also see by the photo that you have been purchasing items from our friends in NZ :)
 
I was actually the first person in australia to purchase parts from Rob, I have his front arms, front and rear crossmembers, exhaust manifold
north south crossmember and a sump lol
 

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