Brake DISCUSSION

[bazeng]

Hi guys

just spent a few hundred on my brake setup..
it consists of:

front:

330mm RDA slotted rotors
twin pot PBR alloy calipers
EBC greens
braided lines

rear:

stock vr4 rear calipers
RDA slotted rotors
QFM super x pads
braided lines

using MOTUL 5.1 brake fuild
stock AUSPEC 1" bore brake master / booster


I haven't gone for a drive in them yet, but I'm just wondering what u guys do for pads / track days..

do u guys have a street pad and change over to track pads?
not sure if many guys on this forum are into that stuff..
i know a few are..

anyway, got any nice combo's u would like to share?
the QFM pads are not really known, but they are cheap and are better than the EBC blacks (rears).. only 50 or so dollars for the pair!!...

rated at 500 degrees C, similar to the front EBC greens...

I've used greens on my old setup and they developed a wierd black gooey sort of burn on my old rotors, the only way to clean it was to sand it back with some fine paper... is this common? i've read it could have been a bad batch...

ALSO, what about bleeding procedure, i've always gone RR, FL, RL, FL.. slow pumps.. hold down while closing the nipple.. not pushing on the pedal all the way down as it could hurt the seals in the master cylinder..

I've also heard that the 5.1 silicone fluid can also damage seals... any truth to this at all??

here is a review of some pads
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0351/article.html
any feedback appreciated!..

 

[3zercrowd]

ALSO, what about bleeding procedure, i've always gone RR, FL, RL, FL.. slow pumps.. hold down while closing the nipple.. not pushing on the pedal all the way down as it could hurt the seals in the master cylinder..

The general concensus with mechanics is that you should start with the furtherest away from the Master Cylinder, and working your way towards it.

RL, RR, FL, FR :wink: Thats the way I always do it.

 

[Velocity Racing]

cant go past Ferodo DS3000's and Elf Race fluid.. for track/motorsport stuff.. they are just awesome.. shit all over the padgid i had before.. Well worth it..

as for 5.1 silicone fluid, it sure can, but i dont think there are too many on the market..

 

[tharaka]

so most 5.1 fluids are safe?

 

[bazeng]

i believe there are 2 types of 5.1
glycol and silcone..
the silicone is the damaging one i believe

ill do more research and update the post...

 

[to4garret]

so most 5.1 fluids are safe?

only the DOT 5.1 ones which are glycol based, do not use silicone based DOT 5.1.

why take a chance

 

[tharaka]

iirc

DOT 5 is silicon based
DOT 5.1 is the good one

not sure

 

[BobWrinkle]

ALSO, what about bleeding procedure, i've always gone RR, FL, RL, FL.. slow pumps.. hold down while closing the nipple.. not pushing on the pedal all the way down as it could hurt the seals in the master cylinder..

The general concensus with mechanics is that you should start with the furtherest away from the Master Cylinder, and working your way towards it.

RL, RR, FL, FR :wink: Thats the way I always do it.

Hmmm always thought there was no dif so how can putting ur foot flat to the floor hurt it??

 

[to4garret]

iirc

DOT 5 is silicon based correct
DOT 5.1 is the good one some are glycol based, some are silicone, read the packaging to be sure

 

[bazeng]

woooohooo...
the motul 5.1 is glycol!

 

[rob323]

Hmmm always thought there was no dif so how can putting ur foot flat to the floor hurt it??

When you are braking in your car, your brake pedal usually only goes about half way down so the piston in the master cylinder only goes part way of its full travel. If the master cyliner is old or the fluid has not been flushed regularly, the far end of the master cylinder can get pitted from rust or have grit in the fluid down the far end. If when bleeding, you push the pedal all the way down, you can cause damage to the cup seal in the master by running it over the rough surface down that end.

If the master has been freshly rebuilt and the bore given a light hone, then it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[WRCVR4]

woooohooo...
the motul 5.1 is glycol!

I thought the silicone one was the better one, as it DOESNT boil like the glycol ones, ie RACE fluid :?

 

[rob323]

Have a read of this for some good info on fluids - do not use silicone.
http://www.racebrakes.co.nz/pdf/brake_upgrade.pdf

 

[BobWrinkle]

I Just got some 4 piston GTO brakes for the front of my car.

How do you tell what size mags they will fit under??

And what rotor size?

 

[rob323]

I Just got some 4 piston GTO brakes for the front of my car.

How do you tell what size mags they will fit under??

And what rotor size?

GTO's had different sizes of front discs depending on year, I don't know if one calliper fits all or whether they had different callipers for the different discs.

http://www.bpa.com.au/REL_Mitsubishi.pdf

I believe they also got a 330 mm disc around 1997 onwards.

 

[bazeng]

make sure u try the wheel with the brakes on before u buy

i've got 2 sets of 17" rims..
one a volk set, one an enkei set.. both the same offset, both the same size.. only the enkei's cleared due to the 3 piece volk nuts/ bolts hitting the caliper..

i believe u can buy the brackets for the gto to fit onto our cars..

 

[bazeng]

http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/usbrakestore/fluidtech.cfm

more about silicone / glycol

safe to say my car is safe with the motul 5.1
its a glycol based fluid..

what a relief!