BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
I dont want to appear rude...but the freight may exceed the value of the part :blink:
building a forged 4g93T .....it begins now
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I dont want to appear rude...but the freight may exceed the value of the part :blink:
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
pulled the standard oil pump apart today.....its like a new one inside!! 
out side looks like shit from road grime and stuff but a bead blast should mat it look better.
out side looks like shit from road grime and stuff but a bead blast should mat it look better.
khubner1
Moderator
shhh i gotta find somewhere to off load this piece of crap! well it not crap it's still run perfectly fine i just don't want it at my place!
oh BTW new cranks are worth $3400 from misty i asked :blink: when i thought mine was outside of tollerances. cheapest i could find was buying a complete engine from a wrecker and hoping for the best ~$380
oh BTW new cranks are worth $3400 from misty i asked :blink: when i thought mine was outside of tollerances. cheapest i could find was buying a complete engine from a wrecker and hoping for the best ~$380
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
crank from a wrecker here is 180.00....but I have the old engine to strip first. If that is better than this one....i will use that.
khubner1
Moderator
your lucky none of mine would do a crank separate i had to buy a whole engine
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
replacement crank sourced....machined....and balanced Again! Installed and "feels" great when hand turning.
the evo arp studs were a tightened and released 5 or 6 times to polish the thread on the stud and nut mating surface. the last time it was very progressive in "feel" as it reached the correct torque.
have done the same to the rods as well....strangely K1 don't supply arp lube even tho the bolts in the rods are ARP 2000 bolts. the stuff they supplied was crap so went in the bin...it looked like engine honey :blink:
the evo arp studs were a tightened and released 5 or 6 times to polish the thread on the stud and nut mating surface. the last time it was very progressive in "feel" as it reached the correct torque.
have done the same to the rods as well....strangely K1 don't supply arp lube even tho the bolts in the rods are ARP 2000 bolts. the stuff they supplied was crap so went in the bin...it looked like engine honey :blink:
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
I will dig it out later....but they are ARP studs for a Toyota 3SGTE best to get them off eBay in the US as they are at least 50 bucks dearer here.
i needed another crank for another project.. and i picked up a complete glxi for 150buxs including the towing.. lol work that one out and the towing waznt cheap
khubner1
Moderator
i know their profit margin must be pretty damn good!
caged
Well-Known Member
If you are going for a bit of HP you can just use evo 1 2 3 head studs and drill/tap the block to suit, that was cheaper for me than 3sgte ones.
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
much has been done since the last update...the engine is built and almost ready to go in.
crank install with arp evo studs.....all went well.
rings gaps all set with a ring grinder......much easier than a file and more consistent
pistons and rods are also in......rod bolt tension set with a stretch guage because there was no torque setting provided. almost 5 ftlb of spread in required torque and bloody tight !!. but again spins really well.
with that done and the sump on...it was time for the head to go on. all recon and faced to suit a metal gasket
3SGTE head studs installed. ....torque supplied but seemed much lower than the torque to yield of a standard bolt. what torque do other people use?
metal gasket ready for the head to be installed
14b turbo sits on the side with lots of exhaust manifold porting
all most ready for its new home...
crank install with arp evo studs.....all went well.
rings gaps all set with a ring grinder......much easier than a file and more consistent
pistons and rods are also in......rod bolt tension set with a stretch guage because there was no torque setting provided. almost 5 ftlb of spread in required torque and bloody tight !!. but again spins really well.
with that done and the sump on...it was time for the head to go on. all recon and faced to suit a metal gasket
3SGTE head studs installed. ....torque supplied but seemed much lower than the torque to yield of a standard bolt. what torque do other people use?
metal gasket ready for the head to be installed
14b turbo sits on the side with lots of exhaust manifold porting
all most ready for its new home...
Attachments
Qik-1.8
Formally known as 347-dis
nice mate what bearings you using acl race or just normal acl
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
ended up with kings mains and acl race big ends.
tried a couple of sets to get the best clearances and "feel"
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
so it is in and running now.....but sounds like a tractor. I thought at first it was piston slap or the lifters needing more bleeding but the lifters settled down after 30kms. it has done 330k now and still has a very annoying rattle when you accelerate. it isnt knock ...but sounds similar to lifters.
it isnt so serious that there is any danger of damage .....just pissed off that it there at all. I have had a few guys listen and we all think it is top-end related. strange as the head was just done !! :angry:
my GUESS is a bad valve guide.....so head comes off :angry::angry::angry: i want to kill the machinist that "serviced the head"
it isnt so serious that there is any danger of damage .....just pissed off that it there at all. I have had a few guys listen and we all think it is top-end related. strange as the head was just done !! :angry:
my GUESS is a bad valve guide.....so head comes off :angry::angry::angry: i want to kill the machinist that "serviced the head"
Seano_boi
Member
the guy who did your last work and didnt spray the crank it with anything to stop corrosion didnt do it did he ?
did you get some other place to do the head or was it done at the same time ?
did you get some other place to do the head or was it done at the same time ?
ted
Well-Known Member
You said they machined your crank yeah? did they drill out you oil gallery caps and flush it out? you can tell if they have they tap the holes and fit little grub screws
It may have puched metal filings through the engine. Did you also remove the spark plugs and fuel pump relay and turn it over until you achieved decent oil pressure before you started it? (may take a good minute or two to get oil pressure while cranking). Just thinking they may have been a little oil starvation issue on start up otherwise.
It may have puched metal filings through the engine. Did you also remove the spark plugs and fuel pump relay and turn it over until you achieved decent oil pressure before you started it? (may take a good minute or two to get oil pressure while cranking). Just thinking they may have been a little oil starvation issue on start up otherwise.
Nice work Brian, good to see you've posted up some pics too mate
That freakn rattle is a bitch in 4G93's. Its definitely valvetrain related.
Does it sound like this toward the end of the video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hcr4-7N4Fzk
That freakn rattle is a bitch in 4G93's. Its definitely valvetrain related.
Does it sound like this toward the end of the video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hcr4-7N4Fzk
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
Nice work Brian, good to see you've posted up some pics too mate
That freakn rattle is a bitch in 4G93's. Its definitely valvetrain related.
Does it sound like this toward the end of the video?
no mate it doesnt sound like that.....it only makes the noise when you blip the throttle or are accelerating gently
