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Squiddy

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Say theres this guy, we'll call him MR X, and when he used to wash his car and rinse it with de-ionised water, he would then air dry it by doing 100-120 on the freeway and had no need of a chamois. (It actually dries streak and spot free).

Just wondering if the preferred method to dry a car is still a chamois?

Dont they scratch the paint and clear coat with bits of rail dust embedded in the paint?

Also, anyone know of a brand of a good sunshade that will fit? Went down to supercheap and spent 1/2 an hour trying 4 different brands that didnt fit..... 70X150 is far too big.
 
if you contact a proper detailing supplier, there chamois's are the best , ( the suppliers that goes to the car yards ) , I could probly ask the supplier we have for the prices etc if your keen?? ( but there not cheap from memory)

I also use a mequiars showroom shine over the hole car after wash and dry , it feels like its just been polished and you use a microfiber cloth to wipe it off also to stop scratches
 
a chamois shouldn't scratch if the surface is clean; and it should be clean. Your paint shouldn't be that soft. (be sure to be washing the car when it's cool, and out of the sun - otherwise acrylic will re-soften at about 40 or 50 degrees, 2k won't re-soften at all, but heat will act as a catalyst to chemicals).

I just finished a tafe course, so am officially now qualified detailer; and from what you get taught; you must chamois the car after washing; otherwise any soap residue will dry on the paint, leaving water marks and damaging the finish. no good!!!

There is a difference between brands, and I haven't tried them all. I'd stick with a synthetic over a leather one. Armorall ones i've used are actually pretty damn good, and glide over the surface really well. Haven't tried meguires yet.
 
its more fun to make them dirty :p ,

Ive clean it since it looking like this on satuday , I did notice that the chamios I used didnt leave much if any streaks , but I did just wax it with meguires, it really brought out the shine

IMG00129-20110115-1643DD.jpg
 
I use a drying towel. Have read this and that on the pros/cons of various chamois. But when it comes down to actually drying the car, the drying towel linked bellow seams to works easier and leave the same (if not better) result.

I have one and use it on my CC GSR and 2010 grand vitara with great results :)

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/mint/microfibre_drying_towel_waffle_weave_x_large
 
Thans guys,

my housemate swears by the meguairs leather chamois, but I thought Id double check.

Trav how much do the professional detailing ones go for?

I'm also in the market for a cover - the car catches the morning sun under the carport. Does anyone have a recommendation for a particular brand that wont scratch the paint work?
 
any brand will scratch the paint work, unless the car is 100% clean underneath. Contaminants get between and rub against the paint, scratching it.

meguairs chamois is leather??? i thought they were synthetic?

carcareproducts is a good place to buy professional gear from, otherwise http://www.gngsales.com.au , dunno who is main suppliers in other states though.
 
I just got a quote and there about $20 to 25 per chamois , I will get some sizes etc



Thanks Trav,


Does anyone know if these covers are 1/2 decent?

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/car_care_products/prestige_car_cover/large_car

Im going to be leaving it under a carport but it gets the morning sun so I need something that will block out UV and wont scratch the paint work
 
thats the cover I have also . I liked that it breaths and is water proof , plus you can clip it in down the bottom

but I usually only fit is after its completely dry , and engine is cold , and dush is what can make it scratch


Picture019-5.jpg


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The detailer perforated ones are awesome..I'm sure these are the ones trav is talking about. They are about the size of 2 tea towels in one and you just cut it in half.
On good paint I always follow my chamois with a mircofibre cloth just to make sure the finish is clean of any possible streaks ;)
 
Thanks again guys - really good positive response to ths thread. Will probably order a cover and drying towel in the coming weeks (once I work out the right size etc).....
 
can somebody elaborate on the clay block mentioned in another thread also? (since we're on topic)
does it work similar to using a pummice stone on your feet to remove the hard skin? (lol - hopefully someone knows what i mean)
 
It's like play doh. It basically collects all the crap on that paint. some form of lube is required so the block slides over the paint.

I just did this recently and it is magic! Good on glass also. I spent 3 hours claying the car and then waxing
 
I use the Meguire's clay when I really want to "go to town" on my car.

If you've cleaned your car, and think it's an awesome job, try gently running your fingernails over the paint.

Feel all those little gritty bumps as you do it? That's all of the contaminants that no amount of washing will remove - they've practically "bonded" to your paint.

The clay simply allows you to remove these "bonded" contaminants from the paint, leaving it with that "smooth as glass" feel.

It takes a fair while, but if you see doing this as part of a "major service" of your paintwork (i.e. do it every 4-6 months) contaminants will find it harder to bond to your paint, and your car will stay clean looking for longer

I usually:

1) Wash and chamois the car (changing the water frequently, and don't dip your sponge in the bottom 3rd of the water in the bucket - that's where all the dirt is, and you'll simply be rubbing this all over your duco if you do.

2) Use a paint cleaner to prepare the surface (I use Meguire's paint cleaner)

3) Do the "fingernail test" if the test returns "positive" - clay away, one panel at a time until you get that smooth as glass feel. If you notice the clay is getting dirty, just knead it until it disappears and continue.

4) Polish the car with a high quality polish - the most common mistake is too use too much, but in fact being quite stingy returns the best results. Also, never pour the polish directly onto the paintwork - always pour it onto an applicator pad first, then apply that to the paintwork using small, circular strokes, working on one section at a time.

5) Buff off, using only a 100% cotton terry toweling cloth. If you get any sort of residue build up on the cloth, change to a clean one.

6) Apply a high quality carnuba wax to the entire paintwork, i.e. Mequire's, Zymol, etc as per steps 4 & 5. This forms a hard exterior shell for the paintwork, that protects the cleaned, polished surface from contaminants (i.e. it's harder for contaminants to bond to the paintwork), and stops it getting dirty as quickly , and makes it much easier to clean for the next few washes if done properly.
 
I havent clay bar'd the car yet as it only got a full respray not long ago, but I have seen it done and the results produced its the shizz - it just takes ages from start to finish but well worth the reward. The paint work will feel like glass afterwards.

I believe the technical name for all the gritty bits on clean paint work are referred to as "rail dust".

You can find 100's of instructional videos on youtube though I think Boostboys post should be a sticky on clay bars? Very good start to finish step by step method!
 

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