clutch recomendations ???

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croket

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Joined
Mar 15, 2013
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Im looking at suggestions for a new clutch , ill soon be replacing my box with a locked centre box , rebuild transfer , evo3 rear mechanical and aws delete. Plus some 720cc injectors and a retune , im getting the tiniest amount of slip into hard high rpm shifts with my current clutch. Its an xtreme with a from what i can remember a 4200lbs pressure plate and a sprung disc with 8 ceramic copper looking pads on it. I want a unsprung solid disc and a heavier pressure plate as ill be upgrading my power alot.
 
Ive heard lots of good things about jim berry clutchs , id still like to stay with a single disc setup. Its got a lightened flywheel already but im not sure i like it , think i prefered it when it had stock one. So a light weight twin plate i probably wouldnt like the feel of. It only needs to hold max 600hp
 
imo you will be lucky to find a single plate clutch that holds 600hp.

a twin plate will be easier to drive also
 
If it were a 7-bolt crank EVO/RVR engine, I would say definitely stay away from h/duty high pressure plate single plate clutches (good way to expedite crankwalk).
If you have a 6-bolt crank GVR4 engine, then you can get away up to a point, but they will be difficult to make clean smooth shifts at high rpm.

I'm making 330kw atw with a "Spec Stage 3+" single plate clutch kit on a GVR4 engine. I'm giving it 30psi boost and the clutch is holding. Its a light pedal feel (almost stock like) but grabs extremely well due to the friction surfaces. Its hands down been an excellent "FULL FACE SPRUNG CENTRE" (yes I said full face and sprung centre) clutch for me and I cannot recommend it enough for a mainly street/limited strip car around the 300kw atw mark - but don't expect to be making clean shifts up high in the rpm range. Granted I haven't driven for many km at the moment on 330kw atw yet, but I am experiencing difficulty making shifts over 6500rpm in my own rebuilt gearbox. I know its not a gearbox or oil problem, its the big single plate clutch kit with Fidanza flywheel that is limiting smooth shifts up high. If I had to recommend the clutch to anybody, it shits on the Exedy brass button clutches and will be more than enough for what guys with street 4G93T's and 4G63's up to 300kw atw can throw at them in spirited bursts on the road or strip.

But I'm not stupid and living in la-la land either (some might disagree lol). Having more power now and wanting to shift at higher rpm is only going to exacerbate the problem with the big single plate I currently have. So I ended up purchasing a Competition Clutch twin disc kit including flywheel that I haven't fitted yet: http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/comp_clutch_dsm_twin_disc.htm

BUT, the TMZ offered Quarter Master clutches are even better if you have the coin http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi%20QM%20Clutch%20Parts.html . These ones get the thumbs up of approval if you're chasing big ponies.
 
[SIZE=11.818181991577148px]I can throw in another vote for the SPEC Stage 3+, has been holding great for me at ~280kw. Mine is the [/SIZE][SIZE=11.818181991577148px]solid/unsprung center version and is a v[/SIZE][SIZE=11.818181991577148px]ery streetable clutch, though a bit noisy on decel and does have some chatter off the line if i get lazy. Needs a verrry precise clutch/throttle takeup to engage smoothly from a stop. This is probably combination of the unsprung center, fidanza lightweight fly and the carbon metallic face not really wanting to slip. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=11.818181991577148px]How do you find the sprung center engagement from a standstill EVO-00X?[/SIZE]
 
Hy_, the sprung disk is slippable for normal driving in traffic and your leg doesn't get a workout like other h/duty clutches give you when driving in stop/go situations. I have been impressed with it for streetability. It also held a 7k straight up launch on the sticky dragstrip at WSID when I was making around 200-220kw atw (not that I did it more than a couple of times that way). The cleanest launch with it is to back off the pedal a little bit til you feel it slip, then as the frozen song goes "LET IT GO, LET IT GO, I AM ONE WITH THE WIND AND SKY...." Then after a run, take it easy, let it cool down, then go again. The positive thing about the clutch disc is that it has a sprung full face cerrametallic friction surface, which can handle slipping better than a puck clutch. I believe the pressure plate on the Stage3+ is rated at 3000lbs, but due to the friction materials bites more than normal. As stated, Ive been happy with it, but its just one of many clutches out there. Perhaps my brother can comment on it from a different perspective as he's driven my car as well. But when I step in mate's cars with big singles in them, even the Exedy's, their pedals are WAY much heavier to push in and they push my leg back with much more force (I hate that on the street). I suppose a lighter pedal also stops firewall flex and damaging clutch masters, which the CC Lancers are notorious for doing with h/duty clutches installed too.
 
I have a 7 bolt HKS twin plate sitting here that needs some plates and machining. It's fully balanced. Going auto so don't need it.

I haven't been arsed listing it, but this thread has got me all motivated.

I suppose I should put it in the parts thread now LOL
 
DOH!!!

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