Crankwalk .... Should I be worried 96 rvr

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Koko08

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Joined
Jun 28, 2011
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I was reading about 4g63 and I saw a prob that happens to 7bolt 4g63 crankwalk ...would my engine be a 7bolt ... 1996 ssg rvr 4g63t manual
 
yes it would be 7 bolt and it is a hit and miss, do you have an upgraded clutch? (heavy)

the first signs are when pressing the clutch down sometimes it feels like it has no resistence and you press it again and it feels normal.

an easy way to check is get under and use a pry bar between the chassis rail and the harmonic balancer then press your foot on the clutch
then use prybar again - check for any latterial movement, there shouldn't be any noticable movement!

ways to prevent : make sure your clutch is adjusted correctly and doesn't over extend.

JetGSR
 
It was a stock clutch but it's in the shop now getting a HD button clutch . What there be Anykind of sound when the engine running??
 
Been there.....done that! I got caught with badly worn main bearings when i bought my hsg from cairns. As someone previously said try wedging something between the chassis rail and the crank pulley and see if you get any movement (horizontal). If no movement, then this does not necessary mean that you have no play. It may just indicate that the crank is already back towards the gearbbox. Once u have checked at the pulley end, i would check at the flywheel end by getting under the car and removing the small half crescent metal stone shield (thing it about 3 bolts and and one of the upper smaller ones (10mm socket) can be a bastard to get at. THis will expose the flywheel. Then use a large screwdriver, tyre iron, whatever, to wedge gently between the flywheel and gearbox housing. As you just start to apply pressure on the flywheel, take note if the flywheel moves or jumps very slightly towards the pulley end of the engine. Cant remember the allowable tolerance but my knackered engine moved about 2mm, even though the engine still appeared to run quite smoothly.
If there is too much end play, end float, crankwalk......call it what you like, there will possibly be some obvious signs.
1. I had problems when changing in and out of gears. The shift was "jerky and sticky".
2. If you are changing your timing belt then check the crank angle sensor where the plate rotates through the gap in the sensor. The gap will be bigger and you can see where it has been chewed away.
3. If the block is already out of the car, or the sump is removed, then the counterbalances on the crank may have marked the inside of the block as this happens after the crank has chewed away all the bronze bearing as was my case.
Maybe some of this information will only be of use to people for pre purchase checks, but if I ever bought another rvr then I would make the above mentioned one of the first things to check, and in hindsight, I should have got back on the plane and flown to brissy or just back to adelaide.
Oh and riding the clutch in rvrs at traffic lights is a big "no no".....apparently,......and not being sexist but i bought from a female who tried to top up the oil in the radiator!!!!
Hope u have some luck. :D
 
I didnt notice any abnormal noise (probably due to driving around with the stereo turned up ) :p Car still drove had plenty of power, no oil leaks. But I must correct myself. The marks were not on the crank counterweights as I previously said (my bad), but on the crank where the side of the bearing used to touch but you wont be able to see this at this stage. Hope everything goes well. :D
 

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