crankwalking

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YWA17

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Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
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has anybody ever rebuilt a block due to damage from crankwalking? is it worth rebuilding? would u need to replace the old crankshaft?
 
YWA17 said:
has anybody ever rebuilt a block due to damage from crankwalking? is it worth rebuilding? would u need to replace the old crankshaft?

I read some stuff about this a while ago, dig around the forum and use the search button, you should find it.

From memory, the crank needed to be remachined or replaced, not sure about the block...I remeber something about an issue with the crankshaft thrust washers...and the fix for it involved shimming or modyfying them or something similar to that..I think it depended on how bad it was walking to neccessatate replacing main components
 
Yep. If you have crankwalk then you can kiss the crank goodbye basically. Read this link http://4gtuner.com/site/showthread.php?t=8712&highlight=journal and take a look at the pic to see just how bad it can get. When doing my brothers evo engine with crankwalk we had to source another crank from NZ for $200 plus $40 delivery because no one had one at the time for sale. Usually you just end up with thrust journal wear on the side wall of the crank and its a throw away boat anchor after that. The engine block should still be fine but just remember to get it checked out by a machine shop and have the usual work done to it including new bearings all round (oversize if required). Ensure that any replacement crank out of anything from an EVO 1-6 does not have side wall wear. Just because you get an EVO 5 or 6 crank doesnt mean its immune as we also found out.
 
dsmcrankwalk3bd_2.jpg
 
Is the 6 bolt crank less prone to this problem?

When they say 6 bolt/7 bolts, which bolts are they reffering to,where the flywheel bolts on? if so, why is it the 6 bolts are a better crank?

Im starting to think the original VR4 engines are the toughest, and also wondering why with evolution into the 2's and 3's they couldnt get it right?

Ive heard the go is a VR4 bottom end on an E3 head..?
 
im not sure if its related to this or not but the vr4 has a 23mm bottom end bearing and the evo has a 22mm. the bolt pattern they refer to is the flywheel yes.
the thing with the mitsi engines is they made the vr4 engine stupidly strong, much more than what is needed. the evo engine is still bloody strong, but the more power you pump then you can start having issues. mitsi doesnt need to have the engine so strong to make the factory power. when they can take some strength out of them and make the rotating assembly lighter and rev faster. just somethings like that.
they also made intake ports smaller to get more midrange.
it all depends on the power you wish to make i think.
 
On my old 1992 Mitzy Lancer 4wd MX, I used a vr4 block which was known for its strength and durability, and an evo 1 head for better flow. My engine was forged etc but the crank remained the same. Pumped out 640+ hp from the engine.
Man i miss my old car
 
mrcyborg said:
im not sure if its related to this or not but the vr4 has a 23mm bottom end bearing and the evo has a 22mm. the bolt pattern they refer to is the flywheel yes.
the thing with the mitsi engines is they made the vr4 engine stupidly strong, much more than what is needed. the evo engine is still bloody strong, but the more power you pump then you can start having issues. mitsi doesnt need to have the engine so strong to make the factory power. when they can take some strength out of them and make the rotating assembly lighter and rev faster. just somethings like that.
they also made intake ports smaller to get more midrange.
it all depends on the power you wish to make i think.

What ur saying there makes alot of sense, lighter components will have les rotational inertia, and whats the point of making it capable of handling 500Hp when its coming from the factory with 250Hp.

I didnt realise this, I thought the evo stuff was stronger, i wonder how good the bottom end is compared to say other engines like SR20,4AGE,2JZ,RB26 etc..
 
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