Crimping vs soldering

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Dave_GSR1.8

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So which is better ?

Specificallly for wiring in an Innovate LC2 WB.

There seem to be conflicting viewpoints amongst people who seem to know what they are doing, what do people here think?

I have been putting this off till I find enough nerve to piggy back into the ECU loom and also finish off a few other mini projects, whch are almost done, so the time is coming where I will have to tackle this, hence my query.

Cheers
 
Nasa solder connections.
there is a tech sheet floating around that show accepted nasa solder connections.
The problem can be that the solder flows up under the insulation causing a hard section. Then the loom flexes on the end of the solder and fatigues.

In saying that, we use crimped ferrules on wire rope slings, and i have seen them cut open and the crimp has fully integrated into the wire. The crimp is stronger than the wire.
Personally, i crimp with a touch of solder at the tip of the wire if i can. I often reuse oem crimps and i solder them as i dont trust a reused crimp. The cheap ass blue, red, yellow crimps i solder on the wire tips as well.
 
Crimps. Quicker and keeps the loom flexible.

But needs to be the non slicing type. Not those Narva ones.

Solders create a solid in flexible section. They have potential to break over time.

In saying this. Solder will probably be completely fine to tap into an existing wire. If done right. Just support the wire after the join to remove stress.
 
A touch of tinning on both wires and then placing them together to create a soldered section about 5-6mm total length with some tight heat shrink is my favourite method.

You need to tin the wired with them pointing down so the solder doesn't run up the insulation.

I always wrap my wire bundles together and put them in the plastic split conduit and place them along a route that's out of the way of anything that could burn, crush, pull, rub or shear them off.

I do it even if there are only a few wires so it looks neat.

Ultimately up to you though
 
In my experience, it is people that can't grasp the concept of wetting that shoot it down.
As Baz said, if supported correctly solder techniques are fine.
Many mil-spec and comms connectors use solder cup terminations.
Mind you it is not a mission critical system either.
Don't sweat too much over it mate, either or will be fine if done properly.
 
My fav solder is tin both wires set them side by side and heat the tin and join creates a nice strong seamless join usually no fatter than original wire plus sheath. Also easily reversable

I also absokutly love liquid electrical tape 100% water proof never unravels and wont fail under heat best stuff ever
 
leadfoot said:
My fav solder is tin both wires set them side by side and heat the tin and join creates a nice strong seamless join usually no fatter than original wire plus sheath. Also easily reversable

I also absokutly love liquid electrical tape 100% water proof never unravels and wont fail under heat best stuff ever
Never heard of liquid electrical tape, what is that?
 
Wow a deep topic. I'd say for permanent install solder. And if ur good enough at it, it won't run up the insulation. I worked 2 years part time as auto elec and A/c and never had an issue with solder. In saying that, I now work with millions of dollars worth of machinery and solder is very rarely seen, but that's mainly for fault isolation and finding. I roll the 2 wires over each other like a surf barrel, solder and heat shrink. Even better get the glue filled heat shrink. Waterproof that shit.
 
well the haltech install manual says if useing crimps always use correct crimping tool and wherever possible solder all connections. take from that what you will
 
leadfoot said:
well the haltech install manual says if useing crimps always use correct crimping tool and wherever possible solder all connections. take from that what you will
as much as haltech are the authority on wiring thats to cover their arse against people who cant use/or dont have the right crimper and the skills.

no top level race car has solder, and will have service loops, what ever is needed for the job.
 
oh i agree dugmo when it come to a race car though you would think "most" would be using haltech full standalone loom at which point the only joins would be th +5v and +12v and earths. with every other wore being correctly crimp terminated into their respective terminal connectors on each end.

in the end both ways are acceptable dependent on use
 
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