PPG do a RWD conversion kit, they say its a coupling that goes in the gearbox.Does anyone know anything about this ? or if it will fit in a 1.8 GSR box ?I'd like to have the 1.8 gsr box as RWD and my evo3 box as AWDif anyone has any info, please let me know
Disable front Diff
- Thread starter terbulent
- Start date
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JSTYLE
I AM THEEE DYNO QUEEN!
yer its a viscious coupling eliminator.
it works.. but the gearbox in RWD wont last too long.. itll probably brake from the stress.
Jon
it works.. but the gearbox in RWD wont last too long.. itll probably brake from the stress.
Jon
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
Yeah I reckon your transfer case will be under a bit of stress too. Been done lots in NZ.....
Qik-1.8
Formally known as 347-dis
give them a ring mate would be the best bet, just to be sure
if thats the case.. you would have to remove the drive shafts completely leaving big holes to plug somehow ? and use the hub end of the shaft to keep the hub assy together still ?Does anyone know anyone thats done this before ?
yup that would lock it to 50/50 4WD.
best way is to remove the front diff's pinnion and weld the centre diff. thats what i've done.
then you just run the front axles as you would normally, but because you removed the pinnion no power goes through the front diff.
saves having to much around with frost plugs for the gearbox and pulling the cv shafts out.
i.e. makes it easier to go back to 4WD, involves pulling apart the gear box though its not a hard job.
oh, and yea, GSR and EVO box are "basically" the same. apart from some ratios and syncros
best way is to remove the front diff's pinnion and weld the centre diff. thats what i've done.
then you just run the front axles as you would normally, but because you removed the pinnion no power goes through the front diff.
saves having to much around with frost plugs for the gearbox and pulling the cv shafts out.
i.e. makes it easier to go back to 4WD, involves pulling apart the gear box though its not a hard job.
oh, and yea, GSR and EVO box are "basically" the same. apart from some ratios and syncros
terbulent said:
thats just a viscous coupling eliminator. You can do the same thing by getting an existing viscous coupling, destroying it and welding two parts together. Will be alot cheaper too :thumbsup:.
I have a spare VC if you need mate. Also have another one that's been hacked up and ready to be welded together.
PM me if you want more info.
cheers
alex
Cranked
Donating Members
I can make you one, I've done a few of them now. Then just pull out your CV's, a little bit of gasket goo and welsh plugs in the box, RWD here we come.
VR-4Squid
Well-Known Member
better off with a welded centre diff than a vc eliminator.
the weak link in the box is the spider gears in the centre diff.
With a welded centre diff and a steel transfer case (evo's have them, vr4's have alloy t'cases, not sure what gsr's got) the only thing you'll break are rear axles.
Once you have a locked centre diff, remove the front axles, put the outer cv's back through the hubs, and the inner cv cups back into the box, place the shaft piece of the two axles into a plastic bag, along with cv boots, cable ties and a tub of grease - this way when you break a rear axle, you can pop the front ones back in and drive home (obviously you'll need a jack, a rag and some tools aswell).
Actually, the biggest risk of damage to the car is sticking it backwards into a pole/tree/fence/bank/wall/cliff/etc.
the weak link in the box is the spider gears in the centre diff.
With a welded centre diff and a steel transfer case (evo's have them, vr4's have alloy t'cases, not sure what gsr's got) the only thing you'll break are rear axles.
Once you have a locked centre diff, remove the front axles, put the outer cv's back through the hubs, and the inner cv cups back into the box, place the shaft piece of the two axles into a plastic bag, along with cv boots, cable ties and a tub of grease - this way when you break a rear axle, you can pop the front ones back in and drive home (obviously you'll need a jack, a rag and some tools aswell).
Actually, the biggest risk of damage to the car is sticking it backwards into a pole/tree/fence/bank/wall/cliff/etc.
apparently my centre diff is on its way out anyway, just had a twin plate clutch put in and on decel makes a TERRIBLE rattling noise, workshop say its the centre diff. didnt think changing from a heavy single to a twin plate would have that effect though
terbulent said:
I wouldnt be reading to much into it twin plates are noisy as fuck on decell and so are super singles more promenent as there's no rubbers in th clutch plates only springs, I'm used to it now after 3 years on but it shits me more if I have the sounds down lol
Tripmcneily
Well-Known Member
Yeah i just got a ppg coupler myself (sorry guys, I have been talked into giving drifting a go...) Not installed yet though. I'm a little confused as to where the hell it needs to go, and if I will ned to remove the drive shafts>? The PPG item looks a fair bit different to the OEM V.C, which makes me wonder if the shafts need to be removed
Tripmcneily
Well-Known Member
Scratch that... I just installed it... pretty easy... just gotta pull the drive shafts and then we are done... untill my front diff blows up, but in the words of Borat... "is ok, i have a new one"
Tripmcneily
Well-Known Member
Ok, Turbulent asked for a "how to" convert to RWD with the VCE, sorry couldn't get photos, but east enough to explain.
Driveshaft removal
1. loosen wheel nuts and front hub nuts.
2. Jack front of car and remove wheels
3. Undo bolts x2 that attach hub to strut.
4. Work Driveshaft spline out of wheel hub.
5. Cut metal strap holding inner CV boot to gearbox CV stub shaft.
6. Pull out driveshaft (Keep shaft as straight as possible to make pulling easier)
VCE install
1. Drain GB oil
2. Remove bolts holding driver's side end cover of gearbox
3. Viscous Coupler is on the lower shaft. Remove snap ring and then pull VC.
4. Install VCE and remember to make sure you don't loose the balls in the shafts
5. Install snap ring.
6. Assemble gearbox end cover and fill gearbox with oil, this step is uber important...
7. Drop car off jacks,
8. Rip Fully sick skids and hectik burnouts... bro...
Driveshaft removal
1. loosen wheel nuts and front hub nuts.
2. Jack front of car and remove wheels
3. Undo bolts x2 that attach hub to strut.
4. Work Driveshaft spline out of wheel hub.
5. Cut metal strap holding inner CV boot to gearbox CV stub shaft.
6. Pull out driveshaft (Keep shaft as straight as possible to make pulling easier)
VCE install
1. Drain GB oil
2. Remove bolts holding driver's side end cover of gearbox
3. Viscous Coupler is on the lower shaft. Remove snap ring and then pull VC.
4. Install VCE and remember to make sure you don't loose the balls in the shafts
5. Install snap ring.
6. Assemble gearbox end cover and fill gearbox with oil, this step is uber important...
7. Drop car off jacks,
8. Rip Fully sick skids and hectik burnouts... bro...
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