DIY Polyurethane Engine Mounts

4GTuner

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Ohh yeah - of course I expect ppl to disagree thats a given and thats good too. Thats how we learn...

Please don't misinterpret my replies as me getting upset/pissed off - merely explaining my reasons for doing it and clarifying the details.

I have learnt alot from these forums and want to put something back...
 
jett said:
Ohh yeah - of course I expect ppl to disagree thats a given and thats good too. Thats how we learn...

Please don't misinterpret my replies as me getting upset/pissed off - merely explaining my reasons for doing it and clarifying the details.

I have learnt alot from these forums and want to put something back...
Click to expand...


i was't having a go at your responses either, I was just saying....... :smt006
 
Please don't get the idea that I am knocking JETT, good old Aussie ingenuity is something to be proud of and embraced. I like his style. I have seen some shocking attempts to stiffen up engine mounts and JETT's technique is the next best thing to Ralliarts.
I just thought I should let people know that the Ralliart items are available whilst the topic is hot. (I guess that was a bit rude of me to do so .... but we are all grown ups- we should be able to handle some differences in opinions without getting upset)

Ralliart gave and continues to give you the most awsome machines and performance parts in the world. (no-one can argue with that).
Support them so they can stay number one.
Ralliart parts are something to be proud of and you can depend on the quality.
In the business world it is all about supply and demand. If enough of you guys demand better prices on parts...we can supply them.
If you search the vfaq for 'satan', you will find that it refers to the Mitsubishi dealers. I think they should also include a referance to Ralliart as 'GOD'.
I have been converted, Thank god for these awesome machines and thanks Ralliart for the parts.
(you guys must think that I'm a nutcase) LOL
 
Very good write up,
I kept my old mounts to do this, but the idea of buying a part that god has created is tempting.. :lol:

Another option is to do a process called injection moulding.
Basically they inject the nolathane when it is still in a liquid form into the engine mount, giving a perfect fit. But at around $120 per mount the insert is a cheaper alternative.
 
Put it this way

Its no worse than the DIY Cut up a cutting board/Bread Board and inserting it to ur existing mount....Found on the FAQ's

seen it?

I think its a good mod
Well done.
Some inititave and some good points.
 
Hey mate. Very good write up thats for sure!!

The mounts in my VR4 cordia are twisted to the shit house and need new inserts. I got new mounts and want to do what you did. Do you still offer to buy and post them to people? i can pay you for your troubles also

That would be greatly appreciated
 
before you guys get too excited, i should let you know that i'm trying this out (the 300 odd dollars that i'll save can be better spent elsewhere on my car). all up, it is alot of f%^king around.. and you need access to the tools to do it.

the offset hole is the least of your worries.

the insert collar inside the mounts have to be pressed out. now this took me a good hour at my school's workshop to machine a steel rod down to size so we could press the insert out of the bracket. with a 25 tonne press, it was still a struggle because of the 13 years of rust build up and the high interference fitment.

secondly, the rear mount on an evo is possibly smaller (i'll have to double check this when i pull it apart tomorrow), which means i need to buy smaller pu rod and then make up a boss to press that out also.

having said that, i now have a boss to press the 80mm collar out if anybody else requires it. if you're in melbourne, profile plastics in baysy sells pu rod. a 25mm 80dia. rod with a rating of 90 cost me $55. this was probably because it was the minimum charge for retail customers so it may be cheaper if you wish to create a trade account.
 
nk said:
the insert collar inside the mounts have to be pressed out. now this took me a good hour at my school's workshop to machine a steel rod down to size so we could press the insert out of the bracket. with a 25 tonne press, it was still a struggle because of the 13 years of rust build up and the high interference fitment.

secondly, the rear mount on an evo is possibly smaller (i'll have to double check this when i pull it apart tomorrow), which means i need to buy smaller pu rod and then make up a boss to press that out also.
Click to expand...

Dude - read the how to again...

You can easily remove the inserts in under 5mins simply with a die grinder... Cut the metal tube with the die grinder and push it out by hand...

This takes a little longer with a hacksaw but it can be done..


Jez 8)
 
oh i must have missed that. i was going to go for that approach but it seemed a bit dodgy, being a 'soon to be qualified engineer'. i might have to give it a try on the smaller one.

are they sliding out at all?
 
It's not really that hard to get the collars and old mounts out. I put the mount in a vice and used a hacksaw to cut a line through the metal colllar internally. Then used a centre punch in the little hole you see in the outer casing of the engine mount (as pictured below). Bash the centrepunch into that little hole and walah!! the collar bends inwards and it can be taken out :wink:

vice-mount.jpg


After I got mine out I bought a set of these Eclipse prothane mounts from America for $145AU delivered to my door. All the mounts fit perfectly except the little one on the far left (meant to be for the crossmember mount behind the radiator) but it's useless. I had to order in another 13-501 mount and slice it down to fit that particular crossmember mount and now all are done for under $200AU :wink:

MOUNTS.jpg


Mounts_002.jpg


Mounts_003.jpg
 
Nope they haven't moved...

They were a couple of mm oversized so they took some getting in there... They aren't coming out... Besides they are bolted and the female side of the mount is less than 10mm from either end - they couldn't move any more than 8-10mm out of place anyways.

If you were still worried you could just cut them larger - and hang some over the edges like the ones rob posted above...

And if they start to squeak then spray them with lanolin - should do this anyways to stop them becoming brittle..
 
I've also got those inserts PROTHANE..

they are really nice!

evo-00x, u also got those little mounts (for the rear), i thought they stuffed up my order, lucky i already had a custom one...

the only modification needed was cutting the front mount slightly with a grinder (about 3mm's needed to come off...)

very easy..

looks much better than my filled mounts
 

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