dyno tuning a vr4 with a stock ecu - any point?

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MADVR4 said:
at the end of the day.... a standalone ecu is alwayz gonna be better..... thats all there is to it....

more features for a start and better tuning ability

jon if standard ecu's were the shit then why do they even bother with standalone....

u guyz will just go around in circles!! yes jon u have done well for standard ecu... and yes jett shouldnt have said that standard ecu's arent tunable...

but jett is right.... if u wanna do it once and do it right... get a standalone ecu and u will make bigger power!!!

why bother going around in circles

cheers Grant-

Thats true but here is my reason for doing so:

- Tuneable by end user
- Easy to retune
- Cheap cost effective
- No waits.
- In victoria its EPA/DEFECT etc.... free
- Its a stock ecu
- Uses factory settings so something like cold start isnt an issue (unlike most aftermarket ecu's)

For such a cost effective and police trouble free ecu i would highly recommend it for mild mods.. once you start getting huge ass turbo/injectors and the likes thats when you will probably find it hard to compensate with the factory ecu.

At the end of the day people can think what they want and i dont hold that against them but i think a mild modded car doesnt need something fancy. And yes we are all friends here.. nothing beats an forum argument to start the day.. :lol:

Put it this way my lancer is the second fastest Evo 1-3 in aus:
(stock motor/turbo)

Fastest: 12.437 @ 111mph (stock turbo/motor/ecu) EVO 2
Me: 12.44 @ 112mph (stock turbo/motor/ecu) EVO 1

Jon
 
a friend and I tune his r32 on a laptop with a link..

Anyone use a link?


The points of adjustment are not very fine...

and i think it interpolates on its own accord and bridges the gap between the values you set.

Are they considered an entry level basic ecu?
The datalogging feature is good though.
 
jett

obvesly you are a no all no nothing jack of all master of none

my vr4 gets driven 1hr each day it stars first time everytime i have good to grate power at safe psi (i will not specify the power as i dont wont a pissing contest)

and it has a microtech and it was tunned by a good tunner not a shit cunt in the garage of his mothers and being that they arnt that good why can one the same as mine yield over 800rwhp \\

hmm must be the tunner

dont diss what you carnt tune as you carnt understand it

200fwkw is childs play mate get a clue

anyway each to his own
 
You've all gone terribly off-topic and this thread has turned into nothing more than a stupid arguement about who is MORE right.

Have any of you actually answered the question LETSGO put forward succinctly? no.

I dont really know about everyone else, but im getting quite sick of reading such 'runaway train' threads.

Answer the question, if you know the answer, give advice, if you have any to give, and DONT POST if you have no idea or have nothing constructive to offer. geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez :roll:
 
Jeezuz guys - chill out a little I am only trying to help... Its my experience and you can take it or leave makes little difference to me. Theses forums are for help and I put forward what I have actually done not what "my mechanic/tuner said"

Perhaps I went a little overboard on JSTYLE granted and for that I am sorry - but it really pisses me off when people start attacking without even reading the post properly...

Jon and I have gotten over it so perhaps you should not bother with what doesn't concern you...

I think LETSGO has gotten a good idea of what sort of options are available albeit you had to wade through some sh*t - if not put your hand up and say so...

THE END
 
Woah finally read through all of that, i'm impressed with the knowledge that everyone has. Tuner Pro Rt looks full on, i guess i'm going to have to learn how to use it. I'm looking at the eprom chip as i can't justify spending the money on an aftermarket system for the amount of mods i'm going to eventually do to the car.

Eprom burners can be picked up for around $60, but i'm looking at picking up a decent one when i'm in hong kong this weekend. I can't forsee eprom chips costing that much and as for socketing the ecu....how much does solder really cost? :p

Little off topic.....anyone got a spare 4g93t ecu they wanna dontate or sell cheap to me so i can have a go at socketing? :D
 
what have u done LETSGO?!?!?!?!?........... started a war?!?!?

lol.. jk

personally, stock ecu's = good

mitsu's with a chip can be just as good as an aftermarket
just like HONDATA's.. they can be just as good

stutterbox, excellent cold start (unlike alot of aftermarkets), good for cops etc etc...

aftermarkets have greater potential but it all depends on how much u want to spend and what you want..

both have pros and cons..
as for microtech, yes they are pretty crap, but alot of tuners do like to tune them here in vic, simply because all they care about is WOT, not cruise but full on power..

the more expensive ecu's are good for cruising / WOT.. more tuning points, more drivability and better idle...

anyway, to the original question, no there is no point dynotuning a stock ecu if they dont have the software to do it (gotta know the mitsu's)...

otherwise, let it tune itself by disconnecting the battery terminal and letting the ecu relearn....
 
bazeng said:
anyway, to the original question, no there is no point dynotuning a stock ecu if they dont have the software to do it (gotta know the mitsu's)...

otherwise, let it tune itself by disconnecting the battery terminal and letting the ecu relearn....

There we have it.
The most constructive and consice information yet

Thankyou baz.

Now not to hijack


But the link i mentioned...Does anyone know much.?Are they any good.

And also,as far as interests sake for every ones benefit.....I ask this..

Its obvious that the stock ecu will use the o2 sensor to trim and read....But with an aftermarket,Do they run closed loop self programmed maps,or do they use an o2 sensor or a combination of both?

Is it good to combine them and use the map for WOT and the o2 for cruise??

I know you all have alot of knowledge here,its been proven,so i know there will be someone here that knows,but if a reply isnt spot on,or is absent in information..lets not have another ego shootout...

Cool...?Thers nothing worse than wading through shit to find an answer.Even though in most cases you's are all right...in one way or another.


Thanks

Jamie.
 
It all depends on the ecu itself - many cannot run closed loop, some can run closed loop where trim adjustments are made to the injector output and some can operate in an "adaptive mode" where you set a target AFR and the adjustments are written back to the map...

Here is a good overview of most ecu's on the market and their particular features..

http://www.adaptronic.com.au/comp.php

Of course a wide band oxygen sensor must be used with the adaptive tuning (for it to be any use anyway).

And also if the ecu is tuned correctly and no further modifcations are made it should be unneccesary to run closed loop as the AFR's will be always correct. Although I "believe" that there are some sort of emissions laws regarding closed loop operation... Which is a bit stupid as Narrow band o2's only work at cruise... But thats emissions laws for ya :wink:
 
JAP63 said:
But the link i mentioned...Does anyone know much.?Are they any good.

And also,as far as interests sake for every ones benefit.....I ask this..

In NZ, I believe they are quite widely used, and alot in the motorsport side of things. A good friend (although he is a kiwi) never stops going on about them, he loves them (along with other things like ugg boots and woollen jumpers :roll: its a sheep thing). He used to have one on his rally car when he lived in NZ and for some reason the board blew mid rally, Link replaced the board for nothing, upgraded it to a later model for nothing and as far as he was concerned, were an absolute delight to deal with and very helpful. They are his reasons for being very pro-Link.
 
jett said:
... Which is a bit stupid as Narrow band o2's only work at cruise... But thats emissions laws for ya :wink:

so open loop means it does not read from an O2,it just provides the values that it is given...

And closed loop means it will read O2 levels and trim accordingly?


Is that right?

If the car only uses the O2 at cruise,wat happens at WOT?
Does it go to its own setting?
How would it know wat to give with no feedback?
 
lol thanks guys for your input... i'm glad i can stimulate such discussions ;)

jon, i haven't yet had a chance to call afas as i need to get new wheels/tyres first as mine are bold... and if i'm going to dynotune it i'm sure i need a little grip with my huge amount of power...

baz, i've done the battery thing and the car runs really sh!t for the first hour of driving and then goes back to it's normal self... which isn't bad, but i thought there might be some benefit tuning the car...

to clear things up a little, i'm not planning to get an ecu, and i will most likely not get my ecu rechipped, it will be stock as so that when i sell the car, the buyer will have their own choice of ecus etc.

so the general concesus is that there is little to no point dyno tuning the car?

i'll call afas and see what they say anyways...
 
JAP63 said:
so open loop means it does not read from an O2,it just provides the values that it is given...
And closed loop means it will read O2 levels and trim accordingly?
Yeah man thats correct

When I say narrow band o2 sensors only work at cruise - I mean that the narrow band can only sense between ~14.0 and 15.5 AFR which is generally at cruise - ie. when the engine is not making real power... When you boost it up the AFR's go down to around 10-12

The engine runs in open loop at all other times - which simply means it runs from the map - ie it reads the RPM and the Air flow to correlate a injector pulse time. WOT is really no different.. TPS is really only used to correct for throttle pump..
 

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