epic boost problem (20psi+!!!)

4GTuner

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Go to porting then first link.

I used a larger carbide bit to chew into the port to the gate and take out the lip for the flame ring.

Then a smaller bit (only a few mm) to get into the wastegate opening.

Also found having some cranking music, polishing of a bottle of black douglas and a comfy chair passed the hourse pretty well:thumbsup:

I did it as a preventative and never had thouble sitting as low as 7psi.
 
also willing to help any vr4 member out =) always nice to see another one happily going about the streets.

.. and your missus owns/drives the vr4? You lucky dog! :thumbsup:

edit: got any pics of the car?
 
Hey mate. sounds like you have boost creep.

I just made a thread on how i fixed it.

If you do a search on "How i solved boost creep" it can be found. hope it helps
 
milkandoj said:
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

Go to porting then first link.

I used a larger carbide bit to chew into the port to the gate and take out the lip for the flame ring.

Then a smaller bit (only a few mm) to get into the wastegate opening.

Also found having some cranking music, polishing of a bottle of black douglas and a comfy chair passed the hourse pretty well:thumbsup:

I did it as a preventative and never had thouble sitting as low as 7psi.
Click to expand...

Hey Gerard,

How did you port the wastegate opening?

Doesn't the flapper get in the way?

I done the same as you but I had to remove the flapper and weld it back on when I was done. It was frustrating.

I can't understand how you could get a grinding bit in there and port it out nicely (i.e so as to not create a hole that the flapper doesn't cover -> and increase boost lag/peak) without taking the flapper out??

I hope I never have to do that again, although there is a 20G on my bench begging the same treatment....

The process left iron splinters all over my garage. :(
 
omad said:
also willing to help any vr4 member out =) always nice to see another one happily going about the streets.

.. and your missus owns/drives the vr4? You lucky dog! :thumbsup:

edit: got any pics of the car?
Click to expand...
Ill get some pics of the car when im back in perth (though it's not much to look at)
and yeah I bought the vr4 for her to drive but shortly after bought her a Stagea as vr4 was having issues. so now the vr4 is just a plaything lol

trq-str said:
Hey mate. sounds like you have boost creep.

I just made a thread on how i fixed it.

If you do a search on "How i solved boost creep" it can be found. hope it helps
Click to expand...
will search now :D

also will fitting an external gate be an easy way to fix this prob?
 
SIVART said:
old/split vaccum lines or, like me fit them the wrong way around
Click to expand...

yep, was going to say the same. Sounds to me like the wastegate actuator is not receiving the set pressure, and hence the wastegate is not opening up

not cool for a stock engine.
 
MDK87 said:
Hey Gerard,
I done the same as you but I had to remove the flapper and weld it back on when I was done. It was frustrating.
Click to expand...

To port the wastgate opening i used a real small bit, like only a few mm accross, was one out of some pisss weak rotory tool.

If you use a bigger on it'll likely grab, and they do shatter.

I used a much larger one like 10mm wide to port out the fire ring and smooth out and open up the entry to the port. Just stuck it in and old drill, stuff the bearings lol.

i would heavily reccomend buying a nice meatey bit to chew out the fire ring ect or you'll b there forever.

I took a bit of meat out to smooth and open up the past to the 90 degree turn for the port opening.

I have a 3 inch exhaust with an evo 3 dump i ported a little.
Though i do have a cat so will be some restriction. in the exhaust which would help it not creep.
Its running gate pressure at the moment, sits happily on 7psi.
 
Here a pic of mine almost done, see i took out a decent ammount to the opening.

Compare it looking strait down you stock exhaust housing. If can be bothered ill post a pic of a stock housing, you'll see the differnce.

I almost wonder if there will be too much resistance from the gases hitting the ledge below the opening for the wastgate port before it travels down to the turbine, now its opened up so much.

But the gate will be open when its hard on boost anyway so probably needs as much flow as it can get.

Needed a bit of a clean up but you get the idea.

Dont have one of where the flap sits.

Hope it makes sence im so hung over :thumbsup:
 

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can you weld a flange for an external gate onto a cast manifold?
To me this seems like the best option if possible. I really don't have time (or tools) to port out the housing and those aftermarket housings are ridiculously priced! This car is only my daily run around so I'm not looking to go all out on it (I have a drift car that eats all my money lol) If it's possible to weld an external gate to the stock mani I can do this pretty economically
 
streatracer said:
can you weld a flange for an external gate onto a cast manifold?
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Yes you can, whether it will be successful on the long run, anyone knows.
But would the cost of an external gate and all the pipe work etc roughly be the same as the GT pumps housing?
 
rob323 said:
Yes you can, whether it will be successful on the long run, anyone knows.
But would the cost of an external gate and all the pipe work etc roughly be the same as the GT pumps housing?
Click to expand...

To me the GT Pump housing just screams rip off. realistically it's a ported housing for the same price as a brand new turbo (unless I'm missing something?)

As far as I can see if an external gate could be fitted to the stock mani it would be reasonably cost effective (provided i can source a gate at a good price) piping would be minimal as I love a good screamer (giggety)
 
Nah mate, you got it all wrong. A GTpumps housing is about a quarter the price of a new turbo. They are also of much better quality that our standard ones. I’ve heard they don’t crack.

External is far more expensive than a home port job. Tools to do a port job cost under $100
 
streatracer said:
To me the GT Pump housing just screams rip off. realistically it's a ported housing for the same price as a brand new turbo (unless I'm missing something?)
Click to expand...
You can get a brand new genuine Mitsi turbo for $341? If so, I'll take 3.
 
rob323 said:
You can get a brand new genuine Mitsi turbo for $341? If so, I'll take 3.
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hahaha genuine mitsi? no...hell no lol. But although I like to use name brand turbos on my decent cars, I'v seen ebay spec turbos work well far too many times to rule out using them on my daily shitter :D

I'm currently tossing up whether to sell this car so while I do need to fix it before i sell it, I dont want to spend much cash.
Im not sure how much these are worth currently but surely cant be worth much more than $2500 so to spend much on it doesn't work out financially.
 
streatracer said:
hahaha genuine mitsi? no...hell no lol. But although I like to use name brand turbos on my decent cars, I'v seen ebay spec turbos work well far too many times to rule out using them on my daily shitter :D
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I have yet to see one of the cheap ebay 16G knock off turbo's last more than 1000kms (See my signature, I have helped people removed two if these which were stuffed within a couple a hundred kms), let alone 100 000kms that a genuine Mitsi one will.
I'm currently tossing up whether to sell this car so while I do need to fix it before i sell it, I dont want to spend much cash.
Click to expand...
If you are going to sell it, whack a standard 14b dump pipe on it, return the boost down to 12psi or so and you won't have the creep problems.
 

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