Evo 1 Front LSD into my Galant VR4 Transmission (TRE Stage 2)

[alansupra94]

So I just bought a Evo 1 FRONT LSD (told it was mechanical LSD but looks like a viscous LSD to me) and I am wondering what exactly do I need to get it to work in my Galant VR4 Transmission (TRE Stage 2).

Here are some pictures:

From what initial research, I believe I need the passenger side axle cup since it is longer than the normal one and possibly the input shaft? The guy I bought it from is sending that up.

Thanks,
Alan

 

[bazeng]

Viscous are sealed units.

Yours doesn't look sealed to me.

But yes, viscous require unequal length shafts.

 

[DOUGMO]

its hard to be 100% with thos pics but it doesnt even look like a lsd at all.

Its definately not a viscous as Baz said

 

[alansupra94]

Should I took more pictures for you guys? What kind of angles do you guys recommend?

 

[DOUGMO]

get some better ones in the holes in the side, but im about 90% sure at this stage its not an lsd at all

 

[Rockabilly]

Last pic says viscous lsd
cheers

 

[DOUGMO]

as baz said though aldo they are a sealed unit, you can see the spider gears in the side on this one>??

 

[EVO-00X]

Yeah, thats definitely a viscous front LSD guys lol :lol:
Here's something I put together some time ago with pics on different angles to show you.
The viscous plates are inside a sealed unit inside the LSD.
But the holes in the sides are to lubricate the diff pinions with normal gearbox oil as expected.

 

[EVO-00X]

Oh and to the OP, yes you will need the driver's side viscous LSD cup as its a longer shaft.
Here's a pic comparing the driver's side viscous LSD cv cup to a normal open diff/mech LSD cv cup.
The part number of the viscous LSD CV cup is MR166160 and its retail price is around $400!!!

 

[alansupra94]

Yeah, thats definitely a viscous front LSD guys lol :lol:
Here's something I put together some time ago with pics on different angles to show you.
The viscous plates are inside a sealed unit inside the LSD.
But the holes in the sides are to lubricate the diff pinions with normal gearbox oil as expected.

Thank you SOOO much.

I honestly was taking a long shot and expected no one to really respond to me.

The seller is already shipping me up the axle cup and input shaft (he said I need a 2G one but he has one so he is shipping it up to me). Now the question is, you say "driver side cup" but since I am LHD, it would be the passenger side cup correct? Basically this cup is for the SHORT axle that comes out of the transmission, not the long one correct?

You guys are the best!

 

[EVO-00X]

Youre welcome
Yeah in your part of the world its the passenger side lol (the rear of the AWD transmission)
Basically you only have one CV cup coming directly out of the transmisson, the other side has a long black shaft coming out of it that bolts via a bracket to the back of the block.
Good luck with it.

 

[bazeng]

Good work Rob.
I need one of these for my auto box

 

[alansupra94]

Youre welcome
Yeah in your part of the world its the passenger side lol (the rear of the AWD transmission)
Basically you only have one CV cup coming directly out of the transmisson, the other side has a long black shaft coming out of it that bolts via a bracket to the back of the block.
Good luck with it.

Sweet. Do you know if the input shaft needs to be changed by any chance?

I look forward to my new transmission setup:

VLSD Evo 2 Front LSD + 4 Spider CD + TeamRip upgrades (stage 2) + Carbonetic Triple Plate Clutch + Rear 4 Bolt VLSD

I hope I can surprise some newer Evos and Subies on the track.

 

[EVO-00X]

By 'input shaft' do you mean the transfer case input shaft that goes into the transfer case?
If that is the case then yes. GVR4 uses a 22 spline transfer case shaft and the EVO I-III uses a 23 spline shaft.
They are easy to replace, just open the rear end case cover off the back of the gearbox, undo the circlip on the viscous coupling and pull it off.
Be careful not to lose the bearing that holds the shaft in place. Pull the shaft out (easy), put the VR4 shaft in, hold the bearing in the groove at the end of the shaft then bash the viscous coupling back on.
Finish by putting the circlip back on.
Just be careful because when you remove the end case cover, it makes the next section of the transmission case (a thin sandwich plate) just sitting there unbolted down. It will only be held down by sealer. Try not to bump or break the seal on that sandwich plate!!!
The alternative of course would be to use a different transfer case, or put the 23 spline cup inside your existing transfer case. Obviously just replacing the shaft in the transmission is the easiest thing to do and get a hold of.

 

[brisvr4]

Only the early VR4's use a 22 spline output shaft. Later models incl all aspecs use 23.

 

[Rockabilly]

what exactly do I need to get it to work in my Galant VR4 Transmission (TRE Stage 2).

Thanks,
Alan

The VR4 front crown wheel machined to suit the viscous lsd & rhs inner cv.
The crown end bearing shaft is prone to shearing off. They are a lemon.
After breaking 2 myself to prove the 1st wasn't just unlucky, they can get fooked.
Rally cars don't like them. More unpredictable than a mech lsd to drive.
You're better off getting your money back & getting a front mech lsd or Quaife atb lsd.
Cheers

 

[EVO-00X]

Tim, what version/ year model GVR4's did the Americans get? Would they have received both the 22 and 23 splined GVR4's?
The OP would just need to confrim what he's currently running. As long as he uses the right number of splines to suit his transfer case then he'll be right :thumbsup:

 

[alansupra94]

Tim, what version/ year model GVR4's did the Americans get? Would they have received both the 22 and 23 splined GVR4's?
The OP would just need to confrim what he's currently running. As long as he uses the right number of splines to suit his transfer case then he'll be right :thumbsup:

I will check tonight and let you guys know.

The VR4 front crown wheel machined to suit the viscous lsd & rhs inner cv.
The crown end bearing shaft is prone to shearing off. They are a lemon.
After breaking 2 myself to prove the 1st wasn't just unlucky, they can get fooked.
Rally cars don't like them. More unpredictable than a mech lsd to drive.
You're better off getting your money back & getting a front mech lsd or Quaife atb lsd.
Cheers

You broke them that easily? What kind of racing where you doing?

I mean I got this for pretty cheap which is the only reason I am using it. Most DSM guys don't seem to have issues with high horsepower and that crown end bearing shaft. You have any pictures?

 

[Rockabilly]

Why the talk about output shaft teeth counts ? It's a VR4 box & T/C.


Racing ? Both of them gave way going shopping ;-)
Your 58 tooth std front crown wheel won't fit = machining money.
You can get a billet crown end made of stronger steel = money
Just warning you before shit hits the fan. Gear teeth that is.
I'll post a pic of both lsds during the day.
Cheers

 

[alansupra94]

Why the talk about output shaft teeth counts ? It's a VR4 box & T/C.


Racing ? Both of them gave way going shopping ;-)
Your 58 tooth std front crown wheel won't fit = machining money.
You can get a billet crown end made of stronger steel = money
Just warning you before shit hits the fan. Gear teeth that is.
I'll post a pic of both lsds during the day.
Cheers

Okay please let me know. I am not too worried about machining cost since I have access to a welding/machine shop for free for the most part.