Evo 4 Rear Suspension on GSR?

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vonapets

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Jun 9, 2010
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Hey guys,

I was looking into the schematics of doing an Evo 4 rear end conversion. I have noticed that no one has done this before (if they have it hasn't come up in the search!).
In a preliminary look at components there are obviously some issues such as ABS ring/sensor, hubs, bearings, handbrake, caliper etc. Most of which I seem to have figured out. The Evo 4 trailing arm has the same mounting point as the standard gsr/evo one at the front (non caliper) end. For the hub I am simply re-drilling my rears to be 5 stud which should be nice and simple.
There is no need to run the abs ring as the Evo 4 rear end has the hand brake assembly in the way. This can be overcome by taking the abs ring off a front cv shaft, removing a tiny bit of material from the inside and then pressing it back onto the rear shaft. Before you all complain, the front cv abs ring also has 43 teeth which is the exact same amount as the big old GSR/Evo ABS ring, its just 1/3 the size.
The handbrake assembly should work as per usual and the issues of the cables being too long should be rectified by using the matching arms for the setup not the GSR ones. As I haven't actually tried to mount it I don't know for certain.
To avoid getting Evo 4-6 rear suspension, the GSR control arms fit inside the Evo 4 hub snugly. This would allow you to run you standard swaybar and suspension while increasing the amount of room available for larger rims and brembo's while your at it.
I cant see the point in getting the Evo 4 rear subframe/cradle. I mean it might be alloy but the exhaust hanger is on the other side and there is another piece in the middle which should be welded to the bottom of your car due to the Evo 4-9 subframe having 6 mounting points rather than 4.
The only foreseeable problem is that the later Evo subframes connect to this extra bit of reinforcement which also acts as a mounting point for the upper wishbone.
Would it be possible to simply weld the items circled in red to the body or rather make a little pivot case (small 3 sided box) and weld that onto the bottom of the chassis to act as the mounting point for the upper wishbone? It would be of no use to anything when the car was reverted to the GSR trailing arm setup for whatever reason.

Has anyone tried this and reached any problems which I am not seeing at the moment? Does anyone have any advice?
Any suggestions and advice will be appreciated.

Cheers,
Dimitry
 

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if i could do it. i'd "bolt" an evo 4-9 sub frame into the jumbuck.. but its alot of work :( atm im happy with the solid alxe
 
Thanks for your responses guys, I had seen the video in the past however they welded on the entire rear floor pan which made the conversion much easier ie all the parts line up. My question was more along the lines of a Frankenstein job using some old and some new parts to achieve the same final result. I might go up to Meek and pick his brain/get him to do it for me.

Cheers.
 
Why wouldn't you run the alloy rear as it bolts in 4 of the 6 bolt points and you could always weld the centre mount to the floor easily giving a far stronger rear end?
 
If you want to use the E4 - E6 rear subframe and suspension, then you must weld in the chassis rail side pockets as seen in the video.

EVO193 said:
Why wouldn't you run the alloy rear as it bolts in 4 of the 6 bolt points and you could always weld the centre mount to the floor easily giving a far stronger rear end?
Yes. Do this also.
Your rear diff will bolt back in with its existing members. Fit the E4- E6 outer CV joints to your GSR shafts. Plug in the ABS sensors and that's about it.
The pic in the first post is no prob, the holes in the rail are already there. You just feed in the nut from a nearby slot its a little bit tricky but you shouldn't need to touch it again.
I haven't seen this done to a E1-3 or GSR yet. Its a big job, but worth it I reckon cause you can fit Brembos and wider tyre inboard.
 
If Brembos and wider rear tyres are the ultimate end goals for all the work, I think there's easier ways to go about it!
 
The conversion has stalled. I have some evo 8 rims which I wanted to throw on which was driving both my 5 stud conversion and the rear end conversion. Since I do need to cut, chop and weld I am slightly less keen on the conversion. For my purposes however I have a rose jointed rear end which I can pull in an inch and run a spacer to push the rims+tyres further away but keep them within the guards. I might still go ahead with the rear subframe swap to shed a couple of pounds.
 
is that all racefab stuff? if so the hub is essentially in the same position but you get a lot more inner clearance
 

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