EVO SCAN Run Need Help

[deepsouth]

Hi guys, I cannot thank you enough for your help, I really appreciate your time to reply and look at the data.
Saturday is the day I'm going to give the car a once over, I have a new coolant temp sensor to put in as well as an EBC and it needs an oil change.
I'll do the battery disconnect as well when I remove the old alarm wiring.
I think I know where the boost leak may be coming from but I'll confirm that.
Thanks Jack of all for that info re the leak tester, I have seen Jafromobile make one similar so I'll get to work making one, it certainly does help take the guess work out of chasing leaks.

VR401 the O2 sensor is a two wire sensor, I cut the old one off near the sensor and soldered in the new one. which was also a two wire and according to repco the correct replacement one, being a "universal" one.
When I replaced it we found fuel consumption dropped but the idle was still terrible and there was still lots of black smoke under boost.
I have noticed since fitting the boost gauge at least that there has been significantly less black smoke under boost. However the last month the fuel consumption has increased again almost back to where it was before I replaced the O2 sensor.

Yes I'd love to learn more about tuning, I'm doing the High Performance Academy Learn to tune course online at the moment to get a better understanding of it all, any extra information is always appreciated.

 

[vr401]

Conor is seling parts from his rvr. Get his second hand O2 sensor mate. It must be faulty. Another thing is, did you wire it correct. Some sensors don't like soldering in their lines

If you test your car from turbo outlet then you'll eliminate every posible leaks on your car.

 

[blackvr]

The 2 wire sensor you are using are a bit of a pain. I've been using 3 wire EA-EL Ford oxygen sensors for a while now in the earlier Evo / VR4/RVR setups. Reason ? They are cheap , and they are heated. Heated oxygen sensors don't cool down when you are sitting at traffic lights for example. When they cool down, the ECU reverts to open loop, and hence , the fuel economy drops off. Since using heated oxygen sensors, customers have been reporting 30-50 km more from a tank AROUND town. It doesn't make any difference on the highway, as they don't cool down. I go down to the local U-Pullit and cut a bunch of loom plugs off Falcons, and solder these copper wires/plugs into the VR4/RVRs , as then I don't have to modify the stainless wires and plugs of the Falcon sensors. So much easier and tidier fitting them this way !

You can see all this Oxygen sensor info in the Evoscan software. In particular, use the short term fuel trims to ascertain whether the fuelling its out of range or not. The STFT is a must for setting up injector scaling and latencies. It will also show if the oxy sensor is lazy and not cycling quickly. I wish all these things were available 20 years ago when I started mucking around with VR4s!!!!

 

[deepsouth]

blackvr thanks for that heads up, I'll go see the local wrecker and grab some.
Where does the third wire go? Earth? And how do I know which one is which? Are they polarity sensitive?

VR401 how else can I put the sensor in? I don't trust crimp joints if I can avoid it but if it means that the O2 sensor will work better I can put a crimp joint in.
As for the wiring I didn't think there would be a correct way, I just joined similar coloured wires together....Can I measure polarity of something on the O2 sensor to determine the correct wiring?

Excuse my ignorance my car experience is limited to bolt on things lol

 

[blackvr]

From the oxy sensor sub loom,the two white wires are not polarity dependent. One is for a switched 12v supply ( I use the red power feed for the MAF sensor( which comes straight from the main power feed relay), the other white is ground , and the black is for the sensor output,

 

[4piknup]

Get a wideband.
Innovate mtx-l ftw. Gives you a gauge in the cab to watch and you can log it in evoscan as well. Around $200. You will need it if you going to tune any car.

 

[deepsouth]

I should just bite the bullet and get a wideband, would certainly make things a lot easier.

Thanks for the wiring blackvr

 

[deepsouth]

Hey guys, so I installed the EBC today and removed a whole lot of tubing, etc and reclamped a truck load of clamps and hose connections.

I can hear the turbo spool up heaps better now, it actually sounds like it should. I replumbed my guage as well and I'm getting a solid vacuum reading as well now, a mate thought it may have a vacuum leak but it appears not.

With the ebc and wastegate pressure it's hitting boost cut at 14psi and I've started to dial in less boost with the duty cycle.

An interesting note is that after reconnecting the battery and starting the car besides the dodgy alarm playing up, the thermo fan cut in within a 1 minute of it starting and just sitting there after 4 hours of mucking around on a freezing cold day.
I have not replaced the coolant temp sensor yet and I reckon this is the thing that is faulty due to the thermo fan kicking in while it was still cold...

I'll keep you updated after the sensor swap.

 

[deepsouth]

Swapped sensor no change, fiddled more with the boost settings, in third gear i'm pulling a constant 10psi then in 4th it shoots to 14/15psi with a spike to nearly 20...It's got me beat where the leak is...
Gonna have to do the pressure test on the system next, only thing I haven't touched is the intercooler piping so that will be first port of call during the week.

 

[vr401]

Hey guys, so I installed the EBC today and removed a whole lot of tubing, etc and reclamped a truck load of clamps and hose connections.

I can hear the turbo spool up heaps better now, it actually sounds like it should. I replumbed my guage as well and I'm getting a solid vacuum reading as well now, a mate thought it may have a vacuum leak but it appears not.

With the ebc and wastegate pressure it's hitting boost cut at 14psi and I've started to dial in less boost with the duty cycle.

An interesting note is that after reconnecting the battery and starting the car besides the dodgy alarm playing up, the thermo fan cut in within a 1 minute of it starting and just sitting there after 4 hours of mucking around on a freezing cold day.
I have not replaced the coolant temp sensor yet and I reckon this is the thing that is faulty due to the thermo fan kicking in while it was still cold...

I'll keep you updated after the sensor swap.

Are you sure that after disconnecting battery when you start it up your air condition will turn on with the fan?

Logg the car and send me the logg but drop the boost down so it doesn't hit boost cut. You'll need a chip to run higher boost now

Cheers

 

[vr401]

Also, check your waste gate mate. Just pull on it to see if you can move it. Hopefully it doesn't getting jammed and causing you boost to go high.

 

[deepsouth]

Thanks VR401 I will also check those things, just out of interest on idle what should the boost guage be reading?

It may have been with the aircon as the aircon was on when I got in the car...

 

[vr401]

Thanks VR401 I will also check those things, just out of interest on idle what should the boost guage be reading?

It may have been with the aircon as the aircon was on when I got in the car...

what gauge you have. Usually manual gauge will show around 20 Hg or if it's digital then equasion is 14.7*(30-Hg)/30
It also depends on compresion of the engine and cams but from my experience around 18-20Hg

 

[deepsouth]

I thought so mine is a manual guage, it sits at 0 when on idle, when I accelerate it will drop to my -15,-20HG then move into the positive area as boost comes on....
Definitely looking like a vacuum leak then...

 

[vr401]

I thought so mine is a manual guage, it sits at 0 when on idle, when I accelerate it will drop to my -15,-20HG then move into the positive area as boost comes on....
Definitely looking like a vacuum leak then...

where is it hooked up to?

 

[deepsouth]

It is hooked up in a t off the brake booster vac line.

 

[vr401]

Try to T it of BOV line.
Did you find any leaks yet?
I have rvr ecu chiped and ready for you to try to unleash that boost/power

 

[Hyper_Mike]

Miodrag, the amount of knowledge you have never ceases to amaze me man. Nicest guy you will meet too!!

I have to send you some logs now with the Walbro and the boost wound up

 

[vr401]

Miodrag, the amount of knowledge you have never ceases to amaze me man. Nicest guy you will meet too!!
I have to send you some logs now with the Walbro and the boost wound up

Thank You

Send it over mate. We'll see what else we can do.

 

[deepsouth]

Awesome, thanks Vr401! I have not had a chance to find any leaks, got a new idle control sensor from automotive service solutions so I'll be fitting that sometime over this long weekend and checking for leaks. This week has been HECTIC so next week things should start to calm down.
I've also organised for a new custom exhaust to be done and talking to the guy he reckons looking at the current dodgy exhaust on there we may find the leak coming from the exhaust or intercooler piping.
I'm keen to try the chipped ecu but want to get everything sorted first before adding that, that way at least we will start from a known working platform and can then build from there.
Im also getting ready to get the head done and swap in some new cams as well so worth waiting for those to go in as well.
I haven't done any more log runs either, I'll fit the ICS and reset the car then go for those log runs and see what happens, more than likely it'll be monday/tuesday night.
I'll keep you posted, thanks again as always buddy, I cannot thank you enough for your help!