Fast Idle Air Valve
- Thread starter Pyro
- Start date
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brisvr4
Member
You don't really need to fill the 2 centre sections up as they are just water galleries.
Fiav is disabled by filling the section shown in white.
Fiav is disabled by filling the section shown in white.
f1355spider
Well-Known Member
Pyro said:
Meek have the plates for $13, I'm sure he can mail it to you for a small fee..
http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?v=Product&id=118&pcid=29
You need to pull the throttle body off, undo 5 screws that hold the bottom of the throttle body assembly together, put the plate in between the two pieces and tigthen the screws back up. It's that simple. If your'e not that technically minded, any mechanic can do this for you.
I got one last week and blocked mine off (Aus Spec), the best mod you will ever do to make the car feel more "normal" and drivable! Whoever came up with this "WAX" system should be shot IMO.
doommachine
Well-Known Member
Pyro, I need to block mine off too, if you wanna split shipping from meek I'll give you a hand...
brisvr4
Member
Liquid metal from Super Cheap will do the job for you.
It's a 2 part metal filler.
It's a 2 part metal filler.
doommachine
Well-Known Member
I just blocked mine off today, went the cheap route and used a metal filler from supercheap (not the two part, just the regular stuff? I tested it out first on some other metal and it sticks really well.. )..
The car is SO MUCH better... my BIS screw was so far in from before fixing it the car wouldn't start. Now I can make the car idle at 850 rpm, properly.
Also, the throttle response is far sharper (even when heated up the thing must still have leaked air). For less than seven dollars, this is the best mod ever. I don't know why I put it off for so long.. oh yeah, the screws in the bloody FIAV... that's why! (thankfully the only ones that got stuck were easily accessible by vice grips..)
Oh.. to answer RTA's question, all I blocked off was the FIAV (white) section, I left the water route free. If I get defected again... bugger trying to find a way to have the water lines there but not flowing water.. haha easier to just leave it as is. I don't know if the FIAV will move and cause the sealant to come loose, but through my observation of the FIAV (when I removed the freeze plug) when the water heats up the piston moves out to block the hole... don't see the piston being able to compress the hard nub of sealant in there.
The car is SO MUCH better... my BIS screw was so far in from before fixing it the car wouldn't start. Now I can make the car idle at 850 rpm, properly.
Also, the throttle response is far sharper (even when heated up the thing must still have leaked air). For less than seven dollars, this is the best mod ever. I don't know why I put it off for so long.. oh yeah, the screws in the bloody FIAV... that's why! (thankfully the only ones that got stuck were easily accessible by vice grips..)
Oh.. to answer RTA's question, all I blocked off was the FIAV (white) section, I left the water route free. If I get defected again... bugger trying to find a way to have the water lines there but not flowing water.. haha easier to just leave it as is. I don't know if the FIAV will move and cause the sealant to come loose, but through my observation of the FIAV (when I removed the freeze plug) when the water heats up the piston moves out to block the hole... don't see the piston being able to compress the hard nub of sealant in there.
doommachine
Well-Known Member
I concur - car runs pretty terrible now (when cold. Idles PERFECTLY, but driving it kind of sucks) , luckily I have aftermarket 
I'll just make the idle speed controller do the job of the FIAV.
Also, my vacuum at idle is way way steadier,before it would bounce around a fair bit but now the needle just points at 15 - 20 depending how warm it is. Also free revving the car the vacuum needle moves much quicker.. pretty cool.
I'll just make the idle speed controller do the job of the FIAV.Also, my vacuum at idle is way way steadier,before it would bounce around a fair bit but now the needle just points at 15 - 20 depending how warm it is. Also free revving the car the vacuum needle moves much quicker.. pretty cool.
...
my car starts up on around 2000-2,500 revs and holds it there for about three minutes then goes down to normal idle speed. i understand this is probally standard but idling that high when cold must be doing some damage internally.
are these high revs normal for the f.i.a.v?
will the car run poorly for the first couple minutes if the f.i.a.v is blocked off?
my car starts up on around 2000-2,500 revs and holds it there for about three minutes then goes down to normal idle speed. i understand this is probally standard but idling that high when cold must be doing some damage internally.
are these high revs normal for the f.i.a.v?
will the car run poorly for the first couple minutes if the f.i.a.v is blocked off?
AUSVR4
Well-Known Member
Sounds like more of an issue with the TPS to me?
doommachine
Well-Known Member
Yeah the car runs shitty when cold (I reset my ISC this morning.. a WORLD of difference... more on that later), my ISC wasn't doing anything and with the idle screw set for 950 when warm, part throttle was needed to start the car (just cranking it wouldn't start the car, just make it cough) and until the temp got up to the first mark (1/4), it would cough and splutter when driving, unless you fed it more throttle. (ie, you can't idle around in first when cold).
However I have an aftermarket ECU, so it may be different with a stock car, but I'm assuming that it's a similar issue to having no choke on a carbed car, the auto choke on my monaro was screwed and it was the same, and the webers on my escort had a manual choke which typically (haha for my cars) wasn't set up when I bought it - same deal. I just set the idle on the escort for 1200 though, and honestly the cam was so big it needed it
This morning I pulled out my ISC, wound it all the way out (I got it apart without breaking it) and put it back in... when I turn the key to "on", I can hear it click now, when I turn the key I get an extra 300 rpm (I set it that way) for a second, then back to 950, and when cold it idles at 1300. Nice. I guess if you have a stock car you're going to have to live with running crap when cold.. but on the other hand, when you pull up at the traffic lights next to a cop you won't have a surging idle, or be doing 1500 rpm randomly.. worth it IMO.
However I have an aftermarket ECU, so it may be different with a stock car, but I'm assuming that it's a similar issue to having no choke on a carbed car, the auto choke on my monaro was screwed and it was the same, and the webers on my escort had a manual choke which typically (haha for my cars) wasn't set up when I bought it - same deal. I just set the idle on the escort for 1200 though, and honestly the cam was so big it needed it
This morning I pulled out my ISC, wound it all the way out (I got it apart without breaking it) and put it back in... when I turn the key to "on", I can hear it click now, when I turn the key I get an extra 300 rpm (I set it that way) for a second, then back to 950, and when cold it idles at 1300. Nice. I guess if you have a stock car you're going to have to live with running crap when cold.. but on the other hand, when you pull up at the traffic lights next to a cop you won't have a surging idle, or be doing 1500 rpm randomly.. worth it IMO.
swaped mine today with the one modded by 'doommachine' and what a difference it makes, solved my annoying idle problems straight away, my idle speed control valve still works as well... 2 thumbs up from me, and a big thanks to doom!! good shit man :twisted:
