Fu*kn water pump

4GTuner

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Well at the moment i have a wet timing belt and what sems to be water leaking from behind the timing belt cover onto the sump,its not clean water either it looks dirty like its got oil in it.

sound like the water pump?
 
If you have oil on the timing belt, you should replace it anyway...whats harder, replacing the belt or the valves... maybe pistons if you're really unlucky...
 
If you have oil on the timing belt, you should replace it anyway...whats harder, replacing the belt or the valves... maybe pistons if you're really unlucky...
 
If you have oil on the timing belt, you should replace it anyway...whats harder, replacing the belt or the valves... maybe pistons if you're really unlucky...
 
i just done the belts.

Timing and balancer + pulleys and tensioner.

Thing is my "Smart" mechanic at the time who i instructed to do the cam seals and water pump couldnt be bothered doing it,hence my problem..
 
i just done the belts.

Timing and balancer + pulleys and tensioner.

Thing is my "Smart" mechanic at the time who i instructed to do the cam seals and water pump couldnt be bothered doing it,hence my problem..
 
i just done the belts.

Timing and balancer + pulleys and tensioner.

Thing is my "Smart" mechanic at the time who i instructed to do the cam seals and water pump couldnt be bothered doing it,hence my problem..
 
So get your "smart mechanic" to do it properly this time. You should only be up for about half an hour of labour and the cost of the pump (the cam and crank seals are usually included in the timing belt kits, well they are from Coventry anyway) as that is all it would have taken to do once the belt was off.
 
So get your "smart mechanic" to do it properly this time. You should only be up for about half an hour of labour and the cost of the pump (the cam and crank seals are usually included in the timing belt kits, well they are from Coventry anyway) as that is all it would have taken to do once the belt was off.
 
So get your "smart mechanic" to do it properly this time. You should only be up for about half an hour of labour and the cost of the pump (the cam and crank seals are usually included in the timing belt kits, well they are from Coventry anyway) as that is all it would have taken to do once the belt was off.
 
Hey well.

I got everything off and i see that the tensior sits in the way of removing the water pump...

so i gotta take out the tensioner...

if i take out the tensior do i need to have the belt set at TDC and at its markings?

all im gonna do is remove the tensioner,remove the water pump,replace the pump then put the tensioner back on...

i guess ill just wind the threaded bar in till hydraulic tensior holes line up,put a pin in,remove it then reinstall it and wind the tension back off the threaded bar..

rob you know all about this stuff....
can you answer this as well?

http://4gtuner.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=49688#49688
 
Hey well.

I got everything off and i see that the tensior sits in the way of removing the water pump...

so i gotta take out the tensioner...

if i take out the tensior do i need to have the belt set at TDC and at its markings?

all im gonna do is remove the tensioner,remove the water pump,replace the pump then put the tensioner back on...

i guess ill just wind the threaded bar in till hydraulic tensior holes line up,put a pin in,remove it then reinstall it and wind the tension back off the threaded bar..

rob you know all about this stuff....
can you answer this as well?

http://4gtuner.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=49688#49688
 
Hey well.

I got everything off and i see that the tensior sits in the way of removing the water pump...

so i gotta take out the tensioner...

if i take out the tensior do i need to have the belt set at TDC and at its markings?

all im gonna do is remove the tensioner,remove the water pump,replace the pump then put the tensioner back on...

i guess ill just wind the threaded bar in till hydraulic tensior holes line up,put a pin in,remove it then reinstall it and wind the tension back off the threaded bar..

rob you know all about this stuff....
can you answer this as well?

http://4gtuner.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=49688#49688
 
I think it would be best to have all the timing marks lined up just in case something moves and so that you can see if anything has moved.

Once you line all the marks up, lock your belt to your cam gears and lock your cam gears together (so they can't rotate), depress and pin the tensioner, then you should be able to remove the tensioner, replace the pump, refit the tensioner and everything "SHOULD" still be lined up, but at least you will be able to turn it over by hand a few times and check to make sure before you fire it back up.

Have fun scraping the old paper gasket off the block, I know I did (NOT) :evil: .
 
I think it would be best to have all the timing marks lined up just in case something moves and so that you can see if anything has moved.

Once you line all the marks up, lock your belt to your cam gears and lock your cam gears together (so they can't rotate), depress and pin the tensioner, then you should be able to remove the tensioner, replace the pump, refit the tensioner and everything "SHOULD" still be lined up, but at least you will be able to turn it over by hand a few times and check to make sure before you fire it back up.

Have fun scraping the old paper gasket off the block, I know I did (NOT) :evil: .
 
I think it would be best to have all the timing marks lined up just in case something moves and so that you can see if anything has moved.

Once you line all the marks up, lock your belt to your cam gears and lock your cam gears together (so they can't rotate), depress and pin the tensioner, then you should be able to remove the tensioner, replace the pump, refit the tensioner and everything "SHOULD" still be lined up, but at least you will be able to turn it over by hand a few times and check to make sure before you fire it back up.

Have fun scraping the old paper gasket off the block, I know I did (NOT) :evil: .
 
A c*nt of a job and what he said ^^^^^ especially making sure you've got the area clean!!! . Do it right so you dont end up bloody doing it again :wink:
 
A c*nt of a job and what he said ^^^^^ especially making sure you've got the area clean!!! . Do it right so you dont end up bloody doing it again :wink:
 
A c*nt of a job and what he said ^^^^^ especially making sure you've got the area clean!!! . Do it right so you dont end up bloody doing it again :wink:
 
How do i go about tensioning the pulley?

it says to use a special tool with dowels in order to turn it?

do i need something like that..or will the threaded bar hold it in place?
 
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