gearbox issue

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nigel_a

YR2SLO
Joined
Feb 2, 2010
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561
Location
Brisbane, QLD
hey guys, gotta problem with my gearbox. its a gsr box and its on a 63 motor. it crunches in 2nd and 3rd at high revs while changing gears. never really hit high revs in 4th and 5th so dont know if its consitent. it also does slip at high revs while shifitng. im changing the clutch in the next few days to a exedy heady clutch. does my gearbox sound like it has an internal problem?

cheers
nigel
 
In standard form these boxes arent that fond of high rev changes......sometimes some better oil can "help" how many kms are on the box?
 
could just be your clutch, otherwise your up for new synchros. do the lot synchros and bearings and your gearbox will have a whole new lease on life. it may be expensive but you wont have to worry about it for years afterwards unless you really beast it.
 
Rev it up to 6500rpm+ and do a shift to see if it crunches. Then next time let the rpm drop to around 5500rpm and do a slow shift to see if it still crunches. If it doesnt crunch at the lower RPM then its pretty much normal behaviour for a GSR box. As Brian said its difficult to have a clean shift at 6500rpm+ without a slight crunch of some sort in 2nd and 3rd in one of these boxes, and it makes it even worse if its done a few km's and the synchros and hub and slider have some wear/damage.
Also 2nd gear is notorious for worn synchros and 1/2 hub and slider, keys and springs due to normal wear and tear plus people usually mis-shifting 2nd when they do some spirited driving. To change this stuff you need to open the box up and it aint cheap to replace with new OEM parts. It also depends on the type of GSR box you have as some came out with single synchro 2nd and others with double synchro 2nd gears or at least have been upgraded at some time to double synchros the same as the evo's had. Crunching into 3rd at high rpm is again most probably a combination of a single synchro 3rd gear and worn/damaged teeth on the gearset.
Ive included a pic to show you what a really worn slider looks like (broken teeth). Also is a shot of a worn synchro which has the teeth out of shape which will cause some misalignment when shifting.
 

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ive pulled the box out and yea clutch has had it. will try the shifts at those revs with the new clutch and see how that goes. do the gsr's have a bearing in the flywheel or on the crank? mine didnt have any. how much are the exedy heavy duty clutches? i called autobarn and they quoted me $600 for the kit. on other threads on here people have mentioned getting it for under 500? my box number is W5M33-2-NRBE lightweight synchros 2nd and 3rd. really hope mine are finE!
 
Ive included a pic to show you what a really worn slider looks like (broken teeth). Also is a shot of a worn synchro which has the teeth out of shape which will cause some misalignment when shifting.
Fark, that's some serious abuse by a ham fisted idiot right there. You? :lol:
 
Nope Rob, not me. The pics are from one of a few GSR gearboxes I bought this year with the intention of repairing and getting back out there into the Mitsu community. Each of the boxes had clapped out 1/2 sliders and synchros plus some other parts I need to replace to get them sorted. Of about 5 gearboxes I can now make 3 good ones. Ive since bought brand new OEM 1/2 sliders and hubs, new evo double synchros, new springs, new keys, new seals and other bits to replace these damaged ones and just waiting on me to install them over Xmas holidays before putting them up for sale.

Nigel, our cars dont have a spigot bearing in the flywheel or the crank, hence why the input shaft bearing cops abuse. In worst case scenarios the input shaft can flex or move about excessively. Exedy h/duty clutches will cost around $600+. A good one to go for which has had a lot of good feedback over the years from EVO/GSR owners is the Exedy heavy duty cushioned button kit# MBK-6429HDCB. Its pretty good value for money and does a decent job on most modified daily driven Mitsus. It just depends on what kind of torque you're producing.
 
When I bought my old VR4 it had an extreme clutch in it- and used to have the same issues. Swapped it out with an exedy unit and it was slapping silly.....
 
Rev it up to 6500rpm+ and do a shift to see if it crunches. Then next time let the rpm drop to around 5500rpm and do a slow shift to see if it still crunches. If it doesnt crunch at the lower RPM then its pretty much normal behaviour for a GSR box. As Brian said its difficult to have a clean shift at 6500rpm+ without a slight crunch of some sort in 2nd and 3rd in one of these boxes, and it makes it even worse if its done a few km's and the synchros and hub and slider have some wear/damage.
Also 2nd gear is notorious for worn synchros and 1/2 hub and slider, keys and springs due to normal wear and tear plus people usually mis-shifting 2nd when they do some spirited driving. To change this stuff you need to open the box up and it aint cheap to replace with new OEM parts. It also depends on the type of GSR box you have as some came out with single synchro 2nd and others with double synchro 2nd gears or at least have been upgraded at some time to double synchros the same as the evo's had. Crunching into 3rd at high rpm is again most probably a combination of a single synchro 3rd gear and worn/damaged teeth on the gearset.
Ive included a pic to show you what a really worn slider looks like (broken teeth). Also is a shot of a worn synchro which has the teeth out of shape which will cause some misalignment when shifting.
that 1-2hub isnt too bad, is stil re-usable for standard driving... i have seen utterly destroyed ones, so bad he teeth on gears have melted off....
anyway... where was i...

IF IT CRUNCHES, RUN DEX 3 IN THE G/BOX.... its so much lighter oil, and works soo well
 
i ended up getting just a heady duty exedy clutch. sucks being an apprentice, the pays shit! :( im hoping this clutch will hold roughly 200-220 kw. hoping to achieve those figures in the near future. got the box in last night, roughly 2 mm free play in the pedal. should be enough for the throw out to disengage right? will get some dex 3 oil. are those additives you get any good?
 
Wish I had seen this sooner...

I have what I have been told is the best set up for the GSR/ Early Evo (without going twin plate)

1. Clutch cover Exedy EVO 1-3 VR4 (Genuine)
2. Clutch Disc-Genuine EVO1-3 (Genuine)
3. BRG-Release Bearing EVO 1-3

It is also imperative you have made the superseded changes or you will kill your g/box:
Genuine Clutch Pedal Bracket EVO1-3
Genuine Pivot Ball - EVO1-3
Clutch Fork - EVO1-3

Also revised
Yoke Prop Shaft - EVO1-3

Edit: I run over 19psi on this set up daily
Additives are never good

Use the right g/box oil - Duragear 75W 85
 
im pretty sure we use duragear at work. will just havta see how this clutch holds up and maybe hold of on the mods till ive saved up more coin. my transfer case had a leak so i decided to open her up and it was pretty much filled with "clay". soaked it over night in the parts washer and gave it a scrub today. all the bearings are f$@kd! genuine is not an option for me as it costs to much and half the bearings havta come from japan. i found meek have a seal and bearing kit or the evo 1-3 http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=430 . could that also be for a gsr?
 
i ran approx 160awkw through a exedy equivilant of a stock gsr clutch for a whole year with very harsh driving. a heavey duty one should handle 200 no probs just depends on how harsh and where you want to make the weakest part of your driveline. ill be shooting for 220kwatw through my gsr when its done and ill only be using a exedy heavey duty. however i dont expect the clutch to last longer than a year and i want the clutch to be the weakest part of my drivetrain. a little bit of slippage helps on my launches to.
 
im pretty sure we use duragear at work. will just havta see how this clutch holds up and maybe hold of on the mods till ive saved up more coin. my transfer case had a leak so i decided to open her up and it was pretty much filled with "clay". soaked it over night in the parts washer and gave it a scrub today. all the bearings are f$@kd! genuine is not an option for me as it costs to much and half the bearings havta come from japan. i found meek have a seal and bearing kit or the evo 1-3 http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=430 . could that also be for a gsr?
if your not gonna do the clutch straight away, use dex-3 over g/box oil. its thinner and allows the synchros to do the job alot more efficiant, aslong as you dont put it on a track with dex3..... remember dex 3 normal op temp is about 150deg to 170....so it will take a bit of abuse.
if your an apprentice, find out who your work bearing supplier is and use them, they should be able to get the bearings at trade price, but dont forget you will most likely have to buy shim steel from mitsu to correctly shim your box up....

if you dont know how to shim your box up correctly, DO NOT OPEN IT!!!!! 90% of dip shits either pull apart their box wrong, and make it somebody elses problem, or dont re-shim it on assembly IT MUST BE DONE....

as for your new clutch.... i advise not to put big power through it, because it will go bang fast. ill give you an example... i put a turbo swift gti on the dyno..150kw atw... has a brand new exedy HD clutch...by the time it was tuned the cluch wasnt happy...2 days later car would not drive... it ripped all the organic material off the plate due to having too much power put through it
 
yea im not gonna open the box. already have the new clutch in. pretty sick of my car right about now haha. one problem after the other. guess i cant really complain by buying a car for 3k.
 
yea im not gonna open the box. already have the new clutch in. pretty sick of my car right about now haha. one problem after the other. guess i cant really complain by buying a car for 3k.
just go ken block and rip doughnuts in it!!!!.....that will sort out any issues it may have....
 
If you want the box freshened up I can do it for you mate.
I can also advise you on where to get all the parts that you will need at a decent price too.
You won't know what is needed until the box is apart though.
Shoot me a PM if you want to discuss it any further :)

Tim
 

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