clone
self employed bum
Atters mare who have you been going to?
Gearbox rebuilders
- Thread starter Atters_del
- Start date
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Atters_del
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Townsville Gearbox Reconditioning - "the gearbox specialists" in Garbutt
Atters_del
Donating Members
Got any ideas because my gearbox is finished.. crunches 1st to 2nd.. grabs 1st gear also
4piknup
master of none
Check out jackstransmissions site. He has the testing method for checking if your clutch is dragging.
Atters.
If its not your clutch it'll be the gears obviously.
To give you an idea, I would be doing the following as a minimum if you tear it down.
A new 1st/2nd hub and slider should be on the list for replacement on any teardown. They are usually fukd up in most boxes I have pulled down and make shifting difficult due to worn or broken teeth from miss-shifting/ crunching into 2nd.
As a result, the 1st and 2nd synchros will be shot too. Might as well add new springs and keys at the same time which doesnt cost that much more.
They are on the intermediate shaft which is a lot easier and quicker to pull down than the input shaft.
If your bearing next to 1st gear is in good nick, you can remove the gears and bearing at the same time and re-use the bearing. If not replace it for $30-$40.
But as always, just like an engine, do you pull it down just to change one thing or do you reco it whilst you're there for a greater cost, however it will last you much longer.
As a minimum, this is what you need to do your 1st/2nd gear with new hub slider, synchros, keys and springs plus a new seal kit. Should cost between $350-$400 in brand new parts through your specialist.
Then add labour on top obviously.
You can take your car to a gearbox shop with this parts list and see what they can do for you.
You can save money by removing the gearbox yourself, taking it to them to rebuild, then fitting it back to the car yourself.
Good luck with it mate.
NSK R28-9 Intermediate shaft bearing (includes bearing race R-29a)
MD742419 1st synchro
MD746435 2nd double synchro
MD742445 1st/2nd springs (x2)
MD742775 1st/2nd synchro keys (x3)
MD749414 1st/2nd hub and slider
MD741818 Oil Seal - Input shaft
MD719710 Oil Seal - Front Diff Axle (inner)
MD707184 Oil Seal - Front Diff Axle (outer)
MD723202 Oil Seal - Centre Diff output shaft
If its not your clutch it'll be the gears obviously.
To give you an idea, I would be doing the following as a minimum if you tear it down.
A new 1st/2nd hub and slider should be on the list for replacement on any teardown. They are usually fukd up in most boxes I have pulled down and make shifting difficult due to worn or broken teeth from miss-shifting/ crunching into 2nd.
As a result, the 1st and 2nd synchros will be shot too. Might as well add new springs and keys at the same time which doesnt cost that much more.
They are on the intermediate shaft which is a lot easier and quicker to pull down than the input shaft.
If your bearing next to 1st gear is in good nick, you can remove the gears and bearing at the same time and re-use the bearing. If not replace it for $30-$40.
But as always, just like an engine, do you pull it down just to change one thing or do you reco it whilst you're there for a greater cost, however it will last you much longer.
As a minimum, this is what you need to do your 1st/2nd gear with new hub slider, synchros, keys and springs plus a new seal kit. Should cost between $350-$400 in brand new parts through your specialist.
Then add labour on top obviously.
You can take your car to a gearbox shop with this parts list and see what they can do for you.
You can save money by removing the gearbox yourself, taking it to them to rebuild, then fitting it back to the car yourself.
Good luck with it mate.
NSK R28-9 Intermediate shaft bearing (includes bearing race R-29a)
MD742419 1st synchro
MD746435 2nd double synchro
MD742445 1st/2nd springs (x2)
MD742775 1st/2nd synchro keys (x3)
MD749414 1st/2nd hub and slider
MD741818 Oil Seal - Input shaft
MD719710 Oil Seal - Front Diff Axle (inner)
MD707184 Oil Seal - Front Diff Axle (outer)
MD723202 Oil Seal - Centre Diff output shaft
romeo
Well-Known Member
okay so ive changed oils to redline mt90 and its alot better but still crunches sometimes. its always when im chaing below 5000rpm anything over and it seems to go in fine, im thinking maybe if i get a short shifter it would help im really hoping i wont have to buy a new clutch kit.
Was that when the car was up to operating temperature and you've been driving around for a bit? MTL-90 works best when warmed up.
Glad to hear its made it a little better, but the only solution to worn synchros obviously would be to replace them.
Hope you get it sorted.
Glad to hear its made it a little better, but the only solution to worn synchros obviously would be to replace them.
Hope you get it sorted.
4piknup
master of none
Short shifters will not be the best for synchroes either.
Try slowing the shifter action a lil bit more.
Or maybe double clutch it. Lol.
Dont rev it in the change on upshifts only the down shifts
Try slowing the shifter action a lil bit more.
Or maybe double clutch it. Lol.
Dont rev it in the change on upshifts only the down shifts
romeo
Well-Known Member
ive had 2nd and 3rd replaced which is why i cant figure out why it still does it, i let the car warm up before i drive and i drive normal for about 10min to let it warm up more, i do sometime change slowly but it would still make the crunch noise. Ill see if it gets better in the next week or so. could anyone recommend a good driveline place where i could get my tailshaft balanced?
romeo
Well-Known Member
Can some one give me all the reasons why a gearbox would crunch 2nd and 3rd gear, if I double clutch it goes in to gear really easy and smooth. The only reason I can think of is synchroes but i've that them replaced.
4piknup
master of none
Is your clutch dragging?
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
Any hardy spicer shop will be able to balance your tailshaft. request they balance at 3000 and for less than 5 grams. Tell them to call HPR if they need to install a new CV. HPR is hardy spicer perth and I work there....I also have stock of the cv
Sometimes it might even take the Goldilocks theory to shift right.
Too cold or too slow and it will crunch.... to fast and it might crunch.... but then you can make shifts somewhere in between which are juuuuust riiiiight lol.
Could be clutch, could be flywheel, could be incorrect thrust bearing height not fully pushing into the pressure plate to release the clutch, could be a minor bleed issue, could be reassembled too tightly.... too many variables.
if you park the car up in neutral, then put your foot on the clutch and try to shift straight into 2nd or 3rd gear does it crunch?
Too cold or too slow and it will crunch.... to fast and it might crunch.... but then you can make shifts somewhere in between which are juuuuust riiiiight lol.
Could be clutch, could be flywheel, could be incorrect thrust bearing height not fully pushing into the pressure plate to release the clutch, could be a minor bleed issue, could be reassembled too tightly.... too many variables.
if you park the car up in neutral, then put your foot on the clutch and try to shift straight into 2nd or 3rd gear does it crunch?
khubner1
Moderator
Hit a carpark or place you can sit in neutral without rolling depress clutch Select 1st and rev without releasing clutch if you move clutch is dragging
romeo
Well-Known Member
okay thanks heaps for all the info ill try them out this weekend hopefully and see if I can figure out what's wrong
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