Genuine E3

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JAP63

E III Recaro Pilot
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
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Location
Gold Coast
Can someone please explain how to know if I find a genuine Evo 3?

I've read bits and pieces but its all scattered information, like whats a reshell? why couldnt they just be imported like any other car? and whats so different about them? can they be insured?

Does this extend to other models like E1 and 2? from what i can see, theres not much difference in a well done cc gsr compared to an E3 if done properly, but obviously i want to know what im buying..

Thanks.
 
For instance, should the plate be yellow? like this one, or should it be a blue plate?
 

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where you are a it can have a yellow plate or 6TREP chassis number

but signs to look for are

1. GSR EVO has ariel on the rear quater
2. extra body welding /plates welded in
3. jap chassis number evo 1 CD9A and 2/3 CE9A which will be on the firewall
4.no fold down rear seats and its braced behind
5.180km speedo

just what I can think of at the moment
 
So if an evo 1 had a VIN: 7A8CJOD079900....Etc

What would that mean?

Theres no CD9 in that.......
 
My old VR4 was a 6T9REB VIN'd E39A facelift- the body was imported in a seperate container to the interior, driveline and engine. Once all the bits were re-united, then the car was put back together with a "rebuild" VIN, and registered in S.A, but still retained the E39A VIN from Japan.

You can still get "genuine" E3's here in Aus without yellow plates, but they would have gone through the same process that my old car did, or put back together with the '6T9REP' VIN which is from a repairable write off.
 
CLuTZ said:
My old VR4 was a 6T9REB VIN'd E39A facelift- the body was imported in a seperate container to the interior, driveline and engine. Once all the bits were re-united, then the car was put back together with a "rebuild" VIN, and registered in S.A, but still retained the E39A VIN from Japan.

You can still get "genuine" E3's here in Aus without yellow plates, but they would have gone through the same process that my old car did, or put back together with the '6T9REP' VIN which is from a repairable write off.

Why couldnt you have just imported it as per normal?

Your saying you imported 2 seperate things, the body and the interior, then put the body into the interior and it was o.k...how ridiculous!
 
with that list you guys mentioned... all of that can be changed.
any GSR can have all of that put into it.
The only way you get the 'Real Deal' is by the Chassis No. and Yellow Plate.
 
Dean said:
with that list you guys mentioned... all of that can be changed.
any GSR can have all of that put into it.
The only way you get the 'Real Deal' is by the Chassis No. and Yellow Plate.

Yeah which brings me back to this........

So if an evo 1 had a VIN: 7A8CJOD079900....Etc
What would that mean?
Theres no CD9 in that.......
 
You cannot get import approval for an evo1-5 in any state, unless its a personal import, which means the owner has owned it in japan for 1+years. Or for race/rally use only which means the shell cannot be registered as a road car in AUS.

Hence other means of registering an evo is to import it as parts and register it as a 'repairable write-off'. Or transplant all the evo stuff into an oz-spec CC shell (GL/GLXi/GSR).

From your above VIN, the car is more likely than not registered as a repairable write off (as Clutz mentioned above), or has had a full evo transplant into an oz CC shell.
-alex
 
JAP63 said:
Why couldnt you have just imported it as per normal?

Your saying you imported 2 seperate things, the body and the interior, then put the body into the interior and it was o.k...how ridiculous!


If you don't have import aproval for a race/rally car they will cut it straight down the middle if they find it. Importing the shell and the rest of the bits in seperate containers, was the only way around this...


As for no CD9A in the VIN- im pretty sure that if it was genuine then it'd either have a yellowplate, or a VIN like this, unless its just got an Aus delivered build plate riveted on the firewall

PA280184.jpg
 
evopwr said:
From your above VIN, the car is more likely than not registered as a repairable write off (as Clutz mentioned above), or has had a full evo transplant into an oz CC shell.
-alex

I see what your saying but if it were a reapirable write off or replacement car, the VIN should have
6T9REB or 6T9REP right? it doesnt have either of those though.

This car is being sold as an alleged genuine Evo 1, thats why i want to know if it is or not...If its had a full evo transplant then it is not a genuine evo 1, and if it was a genuine Evo 1, the vin somewhere should have the letters CD9A right? i cant see that anywhere in that VIN number......it also says 'Mitsubishi Lancer' on the vin plate, i thought itd say 'Lancer Evo'.

Just trying to clarify what this car is so if i got o buy it i know what it is.
 

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its called a rebuild number by vic roads

the car is approved for import and rego with the rebuild number before its shiped down and it dosnt get taken apart though, but it gets complied the same way a yellow plate car is done, but a yellow plate did cost alot more at the time and this was a easy and cheap way to get them through

as for the vin , it should be stamped on the rear of the firewall not on a plate, but you should see a jap plate also (SNDF or SNGF etc)

here is my car
japvin.jpg
 
Cheers

all that stuff helps, but still doesnt tell me if the vin

VIN: 7A8CJOD079900....

is real or not
 
its not a real evo vin if thats what your after mate.

cj in oz refers to a lancer coupe, and it wouldnt be the first time i have heard of that
 
DOUGMO said:
its not a real evo vin if thats what your after mate.

cj in oz refers to a lancer coupe, and it wouldnt be the first time i have heard of that

:(:(:(

well, at least someone on here knows and sorted it out, have a look at this add and tell me what you think.
It has a blue plate on the firewall as well...the yellow plate is down on the radiator support..weird.
And it has what looks like a vin stamped to the left side of the firewall too...has a weird bit of yellow paint round it.

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/MITSUBISHI/LANCER/details.aspx?__Ntk=CarAll&__D=evo%20gsr&__Dx=mode%20matchany&State=Queensland&R=6346720&state_id=79&keywords=evo%20gsr&Cr=7&__N=4294964597%2079%204294966896%201216%20834%20285%20257&distance=25&__Ns=pCar_PrivateSpecialFlag_Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_ImageCount_Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime%7c1&__Ntt=evo%20gsr&trecs=16&__Nne=20&__Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&silo=1003&__sid=11DBEA0FC119&Model=LANCER&seot=0&Make=MITSUBISHI
 
that number you have posted is the personal import vin# it wont tell you much.

as others have pointed out the vin# that identifys the car is the
jap chassis number marked in sivarts pic above, it looks like this car still have it intact.

that is the number you need to look at to tell if its a real one.

at a glance it does look like a one but there is no way to tell from those pics for sure. it could just be a good copy.
 
DOUGMO said:
that number you have posted is the personal import vin# it wont tell you much.

as others have pointed out the vin# that identifys the car is the
jap chassis number marked in sivarts pic above, it looks like this car still have it intact.

that is the number you need to look at to tell if its a real one.

at a glance it does look like a one but there is no way to tell from those pics for sure. it could just be a good copy.


Ahh, ok thanks, that makes things clearer, didnt understand there are 2 types of VIN used, that makes things even more confusing......
 

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