GH Sigma, RWD 4g63 Manifolds.

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K, so what have you chaps done for manifolds? Keep in mind i'm using a GT35r or the Turbonetics equivelant. Haven't made up my mind yet.. Can get a 35r locally with warranty for $1600..
Also aiming for around the 500rwhp mark..

Intake i'm tossing up between JMF Race and Magnus Motorsports Street..

JMF - $593 USD.

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Magnus Motorsports - $600 USD.

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There's also a few others out there... But both of these come in a RWD application for no extra cost.


In ways of exhaust manifolds i want something decent. But don't want to pay around $1400 for a custom manifold.
So i'm going to buy a FWD one, extend the runners from the plate and flip it upside down. Add in some bracing and shazam.. I hope..

Got a mate whos an awesome welder with everything. And he likes beer :beer

Dark Performance - $480 USD.

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Straight Line Specialties - $845USD.

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DN Performance - $574 USD.

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Ideas, past experiences etc etc please.. :D
 
What about a 6boost manifold???

As for intake, I'm running a JMF myself. A bunch of others are running MAGNUS manifolds.

There is a flow testing thread on this forum somewhere if you do a search.
Both the JMF and MAGNUS is in it.
 
bazeng said:
What about a 6boost manifold???

As for intake, I'm running a JMF myself. A bunch of others are running MAGNUS manifolds.

There is a flow testing thread on this forum somewhere if you do a search.
Both the JMF and MAGNUS is in it.

Rang kyle. Very short answer, not interested in doing anything. I'll go get one somewhere else.
 
Are you using the Sigma SOHC 4G63 head and block or a GVR4 DOHC head and block?
Those parts are for the DOHC, but you havent indicated which engine you are running with.
 
EVO-00X said:
Are you using the Sigma SOHC 4G63 head and block or a GVR4 DOHC head and block?
Those parts are for the DOHC, but you havent indicated which engine you are running with.

Starion 4g63 6 bolt block. VR4 NA Bigport DOHC head conversion.
 
This is the 4th time Im writing this (fkn thuderstorm outside and getting blackouts :fuuuuu:)
OK, cause I was going to suggest a Magna intake if you were using the SOHC head with throttle flange welded to the opposite side but thats no good for you if you're running the DOHC head.
Either the Magnus or JMF will flow 500hp as proven on US dyno comparisons against a variety of intake manifolds. As mentioned there is a thread in this forum that has a lot of info regarding intake manifolds and flowbench tests. If you're looking at running 30psi+ with NOS then Id look at the JMF because there has been some Magnus manifold's welds coming apart when running that sort of pressure in the intake... they are light sheetmetal intake manifolds afterall and not as strong as cast items.

Ive seen too many stainless steel exhaust manifolds fail over time. Either runners crack, flanges fall apart or welds come away on them. A steampipe manifold with a merge collector design is the way to go. The merge collector is the most important part of the manifold. Get a good one and you're 75% there. The runners and flanges can be welded in between to suit your desired placement and length :thumbsup:
 
EVO-00X said:
This is the 4th time Im writing this (fkn thuderstorm outside and getting blackouts :fuuuuu:)
OK, cause I was going to suggest a Magna intake if you were using the SOHC head with throttle flange welded to the opposite side but thats no good for you if you're running the DOHC head.
Either the Magnus or JMF will flow 500hp as proven on US dyno comparisons against a variety of intake manifolds. As mentioned there is a thread in this forum that has a lot of info regarding intake manifolds and flowbench tests. If you're looking at running 30psi+ with NOS then Id look at the JMF because there has been some Magnus manifold's welds coming apart when running that sort of pressure in the intake... they are light sheetmetal intake manifolds afterall and not as strong as cast items.

Ive seen too many stainless steel exhaust manifolds fail over time. Either runners crack, flanges fall apart or welds come away on them. A steampipe manifold with a merge collector design is the way to go. The merge collector is the most important part of the manifold. Get a good one and you're 75% there. The runners and flanges can be welded in between to suit your desired placement and length :thumbsup:

Yeah i'm leaning towards the JMF as well. As for exhaust manifolds, we are going to be bracing it a fair bit. When it breaks, i'll copy it with a stronger metal. Only prob with steampipe is you can't get the desired radiuses that you can with SS..
 
also
its upto you but id stay away from SS mani's just seen to many crack.i hope this pic scares you off from the staino manifold.not saying all SS manifolds will do this but after seeing that iv always stayed clear lol.steam pipe is a heavier manifold but i garentee u wont have to keep pulling it off to fix up the cracks and brace it
 

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These are good real life pics I took of a guy's manifold who came over to my place to show me his 2 week old SS manifold - cracked runners and welds blowing away. A real waste of money some of them. After countless re-welds and welds on top of welds and then welds on top of those welds he threw the thing away and got Frankie to make him up a steampipe manifold instead. Thing with the ss manifolds are that you never know how long its going to last... 2 weeks, 2 months, 12 months or 24 months.. depends on the wall thickness. In my opinion if you're going to spend the $$ do it right the first time. Stainless steel really isnt the best metal composition for high heat applications, and definitely not the best idea if its welded to mild steel because both metals have different expansion and contraction rates.
 
Metallurgically stainless manifolds make no sense purely due to the sheer amount of expansion they undergo.

Whenever metal expands/contracts it becomes slightly more brittle in the same direction of expansion. As the forces applied to a manifold are perpendicular to the runner (aka gravity and bounce from suspension) versus the horizontal runner, this brittleness is constantly tested. Using a stainless manifold for bling purposes is fine, but you'd want to be budgetting to replace it fairly regularly and at upto $1k a pop.... well, you get the idea I'm sure.
 
Entaran said:
Metallurgically stainless manifolds make no sense purely due to the sheer amount of expansion they undergo.

Whenever metal expands/contracts it becomes slightly more brittle in the same direction of expansion. As the forces applied to a manifold are perpendicular to the runner (aka gravity and bounce from suspension) versus the horizontal runner, this brittleness is constantly tested. Using a stainless manifold for bling purposes is fine, but you'd want to be budgetting to replace it fairly regularly and at upto $1k a pop.... well, you get the idea I'm sure.

Some of the better manufacturers offer a lifetime garantee .They seem to be made from thicker material .
and don't have the u shaped gussets/tags welded on to the runner-flange joint like the cheep ebay types BUT they are not cheep Remember quality costs $$$$ BUT WILL BE CHEEPER IN THE LONG RUN
 
Pretty much decided i'll be getting that top exhaust manifold. We'll be chopping it up anyways. So plenty of opportunity to strengthen it and put some bracing between the head flange and the turbo flange.

As well as a JMF intake.

Now trying to decide between the Garrett GT3582r and the Turbonetics GTK 550...
The GTK looks a hell of a lot nicer...
I'll post pics, cause everyone loves pics. Haha

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No update in a while, 99% sure on the straight line specialties manifold. Even though its the most expensive...

DSM turbo manifold $845.00

CNC machined steel flanges featuring our taper port head flange
304ss runners
Port matched merge collector
TIG welded
Backed w/ lifetime warranty against any cracking/defects
100% made in house in the USA!


Only question, DSM - will this fit a vr4 NA bigport?
 
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