Good News! :(

[CDJ84]

My clutch pedal no longer works! When I put it in it sticks to the floor I can move it back with my hand but I can't put it into gear.

Did a bit of research and found someone that had the same problem and it was either the master or slave cylinder you guys reckon this sounds about right?

I'm going searching for a leak first/check fluid levels. Either way where do you guys get parts from Mitsubishi?

Damn broken sh*t

 

[MDK87]

I have a friend with an RVR that did this.
Look up at the master cylinder connection rod from inside, is there any fluid leaking out?
My mate solved this by getting a 'rebuild' kit from Slacks ck brake and clutch, the cheapest place in Bris hey.
3808 9966
He actually got them to sleeve it aswell, but I don't think that it was necessary.
If it is the master cyl, pull it out and chuck the new rubbers in it.

 

[ONPSI]

i'd most probably say its your slave, usually the first to go although i'd get both resleaved if this is your problem then you know the other won't go at a later date becoming the same problem

 

[CLuTZ]

If there's no fluid around the clutch pedal inside the cabin, it'll be your slave cylinder. I had one die on me in my old RVR....

Good news is they're cheap as chups from Meek~>

http://meek.com.au/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=228

Oh, and easy as to install. I didnt even have to jack my car up, and it was lowered....

 

[CDJ84]

yep its the slave, i might see how much they are at the mitsubishi down the road if its close to the same price i'll just get it there to save time due to posting - fun

 

[CLuTZ]

yep its the slave, i might see how much they are at the mitsubishi down the road if its close to the same price i'll just get it there to save time due to posting - fun

Somehow I doubt they'll be anywhere near the $37.50 meek charges, as their ones are aftermarket, not OEM. Mitsi will be $$$

Here's a tip,

Take the fluid line off first, before the 2 bolts holding it on. Then, when you go to put it back on, put the fluid line on the slave first, then bolt it back on and bleed. Makes it a little easier, instead of trying to fuck around lining up that line :thumbsup:

 

[CDJ84]

ta man thats probably some good advice.

The slave cylinder on the Meek site looks slightly different to mine, where the line goes in is different or am I crazy?

 

[CLuTZ]

ta man thats probably some good advice.

The slave cylinder on the Meek site looks slightly different to mine, where the line goes in is different or am I crazy?

It's definitely the right one......

The yellow part is a cap that you remove- and that banjo bolt swivels....

If you look at it like this, might make it easier

 

[CLuTZ]

Oh and by the way, dont forget to keep the slave cylinder rod, as the new ones dont come with them

 

[CDJ84]

yep I was actually thinking that you could probably swivel that after I posted, good old hungover brain haha thanks again CLuTZ

Actually how does the rod attach to the piston?

 

[bazeng]

Keep in mind, some aftermarket slave cylinders can be slightly different.
Not sure about meeks but others I have purchased work the same, fit the same except for the line position. The line needs to be massaged slightly to reach.

While the slave is out, inspect your master and get it rebuilt if you have the time.
You could get a seal kit and do it yourself, but guys usually don't charge much to do it.

Another option is to take yours to a brake / clutch shop and get them to rebuild it. They may even have the seals in stock!

I remeber this was one of the first things that went wrong in my VR4.
Driving, clutch stuck on floor!! OH SHIT!! pull it up with foot and it was ok...lucky

 

[bazeng]

yep I was actually thinking that you could probably swivel that after I posted, good old hungover brain haha thanks again CLuTZ

Actually how does the rod attach to the piston?

It just sits on the centre of the piston (piston is tapered towards the centre)
Just grease, install boot with rod and keep compressed on install.
Easy!!

 

[ONPSI]

i found a difference when i changed my slave in my old coupe the bleed valve was at the rear pointing at my crossmember compared to the one that was already on the car pointing to the front but its still the same and does the same job...

 

[3zercrowd]

I had it happen to me after a 4hour trip from Albury to Canberra 450kms and it shat itself 400m from my mates place! Lucky/Unlucky which ever way you look at it.
He had minimal tools to fix it as well.
Sat morning Repco had the seal kit in stock, drove up onto his sloped driveway (well thats where it stopped that night anyway)and then it flattens out in his garage, drove up on some old disc rotors the next door neighbour had to raise the height (no jack or jack stands!) Very backyard/ bush mechanics to say the least:unsure:
You gotta do what you gotta do

Since then ive had all of my cylinders re-sleeved!

Thats my story and im sticking to it

 

[tborvr]

here you go this mite help you out http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm

 

[moonchook]

I have a friend with an RVR that did this.
Look up at the master cylinder connection rod from inside, is there any fluid leaking out?
My mate solved this by getting a 'rebuild' kit from Slacks ck brake and clutch, the cheapest place in Bris hey.
3808 9966
He actually got them to sleeve it aswell, but I don't think that it was necessary.
If it is the master cyl, pull it out and chuck the new rubbers in it.

this, had them rebuild my original HSGR one for about $99 at the time (last year) as an idea on what to expect. turnaround was the same day.

oops that was the master cylinder i should say, should read the thread properly! slave kit was cheeeap like under $20