Haltech - Help!

[VIN18M]

Ok so I bought a second hand E6x last year to run the forged 4g93T I'm putting into my Satria GTi which runs the same loom as the GSR/Evo but without allowance for a knock sensor.

The Ecu came with the correct plug to hook straight up to my engine loom, 3 bar map sensor, and boost solenoid and I'll be running this without an AFM. However being second hand there has been a little cutting of several wires and being the first fully programmable ECU I've ever dealt with I'm a little confused as to how to hook this up.

The wiring will be done by a professional but I thought I could at least hook up what I can by myself and potentially get the car running at least to run in the fresh engine.

At the risk of coming across as a complete noob, can anyone shed some light on the below for me by looking at the pics of what the kit I bought consists of?

I've tried to make this as easy as possible...

1. Laptop
2. Engine Loom
3. ???
4. ???
5. Vacuum ???
6. Vacuum ???
7. ???
8. ???
9. ???
10. ???
11. Wastegate line - out ???
12. Vacuum ???
13. Wastegate line - in ???

Thanks in advance for any light you guys can shed on this.

 

[DOUGMO]

Ok so I bought a second hand E6x last year to run the forged 4g93T I'm putting into my Satria GTi which runs the same loom as the GSR/Evo but without allowance for a knock sensor.

The Ecu came with the correct plug to hook straight up to my engine loom, 3 bar map sensor, and boost solenoid and I'll be running this without an AFM. However being second hand there has been a little cutting of several wires and being the first fully programmable ECU I've ever dealt with I'm a little confused as to how to hook this up.

The wiring will be done by a professional but I thought I could at least hook up what I can by myself and potentially get the car running at least to run in the fresh engine.

At the risk of coming across as a complete noob, can anyone shed some light on the below for me by looking at the pics of what the kit I bought consists of?

I've tried to make this as easy as possible...

1. Laptop yes
2. Engine Loom yes
3. ???not sure,powers maybe?
4. ??? not sure,could be plug for external map sensor?
5. Vacuum ??? thats the internal map, you dont need that as you have the 3 bar map - see # 6
6. Vacuum ??? yes, map sensor
7. ???
8. ???
9. ???
10. ???
11. Wastegate line - out ??? yes
12. Vacuum ??? intake pipe (or atmosphere)
13. Wastegate line - in ??? yes

Thanks in advance for any light you guys can shed on this.

If I could make a suggestion, if your going to take the car to someone, let them do it.

by all means mount it all up, mount the map sensor and boost solenoid where you want them, sit the ecu in but dont start guessing stuff as it may cost more in the long run

 

[EVOCPE]

#4 joins to #7, external map sensor
#3 would be to hook up the boost solenoid, air temp sensor etc

 

[EVO-00X]

They usually come with a patch harness diagram. In your case your patch harness diagram is # H6XPEVO123. If you email Haltech support and ask for that number diagram they will send it to you. When you get it, be sure to post the pdf back in here for others to use in future.

#1 is your serial connector to your laptop. You can use a serial to USB adapter for a USB laptop. Not all adapters work though as its pretty much hit and miss depending on how its built.
#2 obvious. Plug your yellow ECU plugs in here.
#3 is your Auxillary connector for air temp sensor, external 3 bar map sensor etc. See attached diagram of the 5-wire plug.
#4 trim plug. Used if you had a trim module like an analog turn knob to adjust boost.
#5 inbuilt 2.5 bar MAP sensor
#6 external 3 bar map sensor
#7 will connect to #3 - look at the attached diagrams for the map sensor
#8 will also connect to #3 - look attached diagrams for air temp sensor.
#9 air temp sensor plug. You will need to put an air temp sensor in your intercooler pipe before the throttle body.
#10 boost control solenoid wires should have one as a switched 12v supply and the other goes to a PWM output - you'll need the e6X patch loom drawing to find the pinout.
(On my E8, its got PWM3 on pin 26 on the 34 pin connector plug but will be different on the e6x I think)
#11, #12, #13 are shown in the attached boost solenoid diagram.

That'll sort you out I hope.

 

[VIN18M]

Legend, thanks for all of that info mate, that is unreal and such a huge help.

A few questions:

• Is there any way of getting around running a temp sensor?
• Is there any way of running a knock sensor? (or is this even necessary?)
• Would I be better off just running the 2.5 bar MAP sensor rather than using the external 3 bar? Would this be a more simplified setup?

The Haltech guys got back to me this morning regarding the harness diagram so here it is for future reference:

I have this all as a PDF document also, if anyone needs it sent to them let me know and I can email it to you.

 

[4piknup]

You need the temp sender. The temp sender in conjunction with the map sensor and the engine rpm decide how much air the engine is getting.
If you run a afm you dont need the the temp and map sensors. Your choice..

Knock sensor is a good idea. It will allow the engine to retard the timing and save engine damage. It can also flash a dash light to tell you to back off the gas.
You just need to run the wires and there is a spot on the 93t blok to screw it into.

Actually there is about 7 wires missing in the gti loom compared to the gsr loom. Knock sensor, boost solonoid is 2 that come straight to mind.
But should be ok as you wont need some other wires and you can reassign them

 

[4piknup]

2.5 bar is 35ish psi. If you want more boost you need the 3 bar map. If not, use the inbuilt one.

 

[VIN18M]

Hmm ok, temp sensor it is and internal map sensor should be more than enough, I can't see myself going beyond 18psi.

So a generic temperature sensor plumbed into the intercooler piping should be fine to run?

Also, if I were to plug the ECU in as it is just using the engine loom and plug without the air temp, map etc, could I use the tune already on the ECU for run in?

 

[4piknup]

Idk. What tune is on it?

 

[VIN18M]

It was running a forged & stroked Evo engine, evo 8 injectors,walbro fuel pump.

I'm running a forged 93t with pretty extreme 290 degree tomei cams, 560cc injectors and a 20g turbo so will still require a good amount of fuel - however timing may be the issue.

I was more concerned about having it plugged in to the loom alone, without Map and air temp sensors hooked up, just to get the car idling and to bed everything in and maybe baby it 10mins away to be wired up and tuned correctly...

 

[EVOCPE]

The Haltech ECUs don't recognise our AFM, so you need to run the air temp sensor

As with the Map sensor, what is the internal 1, coz they came out with 1.5bar, 2 bar and 2.5 bar, I suggest you to use the 3 Bar regardless

Haltech MAP Sensors

A Haltech MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure) provides instantaneous pressure information to the electronic control unit (ECU) from the intake manifold – the amount of boost or vacuum in the intake manifold. This is necessary to calculate air density and determine the engine’s air mass flow rate or in other words engine load. Engine load is used as a reference for all base fuel and ignition maps.

1 Bar Map Sensor
A 1 bar MAP sensor is capable of reading intake pressures below or equal to atmospheric pressure, for this reason a 1 bar MAP sensor is suitable only for naturally aspirated engines (ie not turbo or supercharged).

2 Bar Map Sensor
A 2 bar MAP sensor is capable of reading intake pressures up to 1 bar of positive pressure above atmospheric (otherwise known as boost). This is equivalent to around 14.7psi of boost or 100kpa of positive pressure. This sensor is suitable for turbocharged or supercharged vehicles running 15psi of boost or less.

3 Bar Map Sensor
A 3 bar MAP sensor is capable of reading intake pressures up to 2 bar of positive pressure above atmospheric (otherwise known as boost). This is equivalent to around 29.4psi of boost or 200kpa of positive pressure. This sensor is suitable for turbocharged or supercharged vehicles running between 15psi and 30psi of boost.

 

[EVO-00X]

There you go. The E6X has the wastegate solenoid on PWM output 1.
The pics are blurred with the colour coding etc. Can you forward email me the files that Haltech sent you so I can have them in good quality?
email is: [email protected]

2.5 bar is 35ish psi. If you want more boost you need the 3 bar map. If not, use the inbuilt one.

Some people get confused when they talk about MAP sensors and turbo boost
1 bar in turbo boost = 14.7psi.
But 1 bar in a Map sensor talk is actually 0 atmospheric pressure and used on normal atmo engines.
2 bar Map sensor = 14.7psi turbo boost
2.5bar Map sensor = 22psi turbo boost

 

[blackvr]

2.5 bar is 35ish psi. If you want more boost you need the 3 bar map. If not, use the inbuilt one.

2.5 bar is 35ish psi. If you want more boost you need the 3 bar map. If not, use the inbuilt one.

Actually, the Haltech internal map sensor reads absolute pressure. So 2.5 bar is really 1.5 bar boost ( 21 psi )and 1 "bar"vacuum. Its just like the external 3 bar map sensor that actually reads 2 bar boost.

 

[VIN18M]

Thanks guys, I think I'll play it safe and go with the 3bar external Map sensor.

I've started looking at temp sensors, what's everyone using? Just generic bosch units? Or something off another model vehicle? I'm also looking into weld on bungs to run one of these in the intercooler piping so it can just be screwed in, how are you guys running yours?

I'm still also trying to work out how exactly I'm going to run this new engine in and whether I should run it in on the dyno - which means towing it there, getting everything hooked up and then doing the first start on the dyno itself = more money/hassle. Ideally if I could get the car running on the ECU to at least bed in the rings and run in the cams I'd be happy.

EVO-00X - I've emailed you the PDF of the diagram above and I've also tried uploading higher resolution jpegs and re linked them to the post - they don't seem to be much better though?

 

[blackvr]

I use the VN-VY Commodore air temp sensor. They are pretty common Bosch item, and dont need recalibrating to work with Haltech. I set up a few after market ECUs up and it would be highly unlikely that you will be able to set up, start the engine and map it sufficiently to bed the rings in. You should be able to at least start it and do a systems check though, especially since this is your first crack at an aftermarket ecu.

 

[VIN18M]

Thanks mate, I was just told by a Haltech tech support guy that any GM temp sensor would work fine so Commodore sensor sounds like a good idea.

Hmm, the rings in the engine are the same molly rings that were already in the engine when I bought it, the clearances were still fine as the engine had hardly been driven but I've since had the bores honed as they were glazed. So in theory they shouldn't need bedding in again but I really don't want to glaze the bores again when I run the engine in.

 

[GeoKez]

If you can give me a few more details on your engine, I may be able to supply you a ECU map that will get you get you in the ballpark. ie, if your engine is close in config to mine (like injector size, cams, turbo) I have a selection of maps your welcome to try.

 

[VIN18M]

PM sent!

 

[p055um5]

Haltech web site software Docs etc http://www.haltech.com/downloads-2/previous-products/

 

[EVO-00X]

Yep the Haltech air temp sensor is actually a GM airtemp sensor (Holden Commodore). Usually about $30-40.
Just do a search on EBay or something as there's bound to be several for sale.