HELP Needed!!! (coil packs/igniter) FIXED !!!

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Lee

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2005
Messages
302
Location
Townsville
I have a feeling that either my coils OR my igniter have shat them self.
When I come onto boost (The second I hit boost) it has a big miss & it blows out puffs of black smoke (Fuel) when it does it.
I can drive it fine not under load/boost.

Is there a way to test them to see if they are working?
I have tryied new plugs, & changed over leads and it still has a big miss, But ONLY when under load.
I can free-rev it & it builds 5-6psi boost with out breaking down.
And it's either down to the coil packs OR Igniter.
The car is a EVO 3.
Are VR-4 coils/igniter the same? I know I'm going to have a hard time getting some replacements.
 
mm to my understanding the vr4 and evo ignitors are the same.. im not sure how to test them. if you need a set i got both ignitor and coil pack..

Jon
 
Usually if your ignitor was stuffed your car wouldnt start up, and the coils or spark plugs/gaps could be the problem. Also, if your battery has low charge or your leads were a bit dodgey it would do the same thing :wink: Stock coils are great and you really wouldnt need to change them unless you were making a hell of a lot of power and they were missing under tune. There's guys out there running 500hp+ still using stock coils so you dont need COP's yet :wink: Best to borrow someones ignitor first to check and see if it is the cause and if so, an igntior off a 4G93T GSR, or 4G93P Proton M21/GTi will also work so there's some other alternatives to look for :wink:
 
Yeah Batt Volt is pumping in at 13.7-14V and the leads are fine, changed them with another working set.
The plugs are new only done 2000klm old,
What type of plug do you use when your running 20psi+
I'm running BKR7IEX that was with the new engine.
It only miss fires under load.
 
Just a thought.
What about the spark plug gap?

Whats the chances under load the spark is being blown out with the gap being too big?

instead of 0.8 make it 0.7 or lower?

Baz had some tech articles or something on sparkplug gaps with the spark being blown out?

Paging DR Baz :lol:
 
3zercrowd said:
Just a thought.
What about the spark plug gap?

Whats the chances under load the spark is being blown out with the gap being too big?

instead of 0.8 make it 0.7 or lower?

Baz had some tech articles or something on sparkplug gaps with the spark being blown out?

Paging DR Baz :lol:

I thought of that, Changed plugs & it still did it.
And I dont think that spark plug gap can change on the go (Bigger in this case)
It's either the coils &/OR Igniter, only thing left.
 
Lee said:
3zercrowd said:
Just a thought.
What about the spark plug gap?

Whats the chances under load the spark is being blown out with the gap being too big?

instead of 0.8 make it 0.7 or lower?

Baz had some tech articles or something on sparkplug gaps with the spark being blown out?

Paging DR Baz :lol:

I thought of that, Changed plugs & it still did it.
And I dont think that spark plug gap can change on the go (Bigger in this case)
It's either the coils &/OR Igniter, only thing left.

AH, but did you actually check and change the gap though?
 
No I didn't look at the gap in detail, But I still dont understand why it would just blow out the spark (Or have very low spark) when driving.
Like I said the gap can't get bigger whilst driving.
You cant change the gap on Irridium plugs anyway.
 
Lee said:
No I didn't look at the gap in detail, But I still dont understand why it would just blow out the spark (Or have very low spark) when driving.
Like I said the gap can't get bigger whilst driving.
You cant change the gap on Irridium plugs anyway.


Iridium plugs are a waste of money. You should be using BP7ES NGK's!


try a set, they're cheaper than 1 iridium plug.
 
I get the plugs at cost, so it doesn't bother me either way.
What type of plug would you use for 20psi boost? the standard plug?
Or do you have to go a heat range cooler ect?....
 
I'd go a heat range cooler.

Do a search Lee on the forum for "Spark Plug Gap" and see that so many times its been recommended that a gap of 0.7-0.8 is the go.

Of course the gaps wouldnt have opened up that far while just driving, BUT....the gap can open up over time.

I reckon change the ignitor/coils and see what happens(cause its probably 12 years old :lol: ) and gap your new plugs to 0.7 and see what happens :wink:

I have some feeler gauges here at home if you want them too :)
 
Is the air flow meter plugged in. An evo will run well until boost with it unplugged then its like no fuel and stops. Once below boost it runs well again.
 
Andrewv said:
Is the air flow meter plugged in. An evo will run well until boost with it unplugged then its like no fuel and stops. Once below boost it runs well again.

I didn't think they ran at all without the AFM plaged in. :?
I found out that 2 of my leads are faulty, tested them last night.

So the one's I tested/swaped them with when it 1st stuffed up they are also faulty (Or on the way out)
It's getting worse now I have a slight miss at idle and it's now starting to break down when not under boost.
The coils are fine & throw a nice big spark.
I heard that the Igniter will either work OR wont work and not in between....is that true?

I have some 8.8mm Top Guns on the way.
 
Great, replace all the leads with new ones to totally eliminate them from the equation, and yeah in my experience an ignitor will either work or it wont work with no in between. Doesnt mean Im 100% right though :lol:
 
All Fixed.

All fixed with the new set of Top Gun 8.8mm spiral leads.
Back to pulling like a train again!!! :D
Thanks to everyone who replyed. :wink:

Oh BTW Dave: your leads might need replacing :lol:
 
I am getting these very same symptoms!!!

Car starts and idles fine, but as soon as you load it up she chugs along as if someone had shoved a chunk of carpet in the air-filter!!!

I just replaced the plugs and leads- gaps are all .75 and fine.

As I was replacing the leads I noticed that one of the coilpacks had suffered some serious heat damage. Where you plug the lead in it was all broken, crusty and burnt out!!!

Got a quote from a Mitzy place and it was $590.00 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Have found another source who just sells the direct replacement coils and no brackets for $170.00 the pair.

There's no way in HELL I was going to get genuine for that price.

They get delivered on Monday and I will share any developments with you all.


Cheers,
Garkus
 


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