how do you remove a stubborn bolt? any special methods?

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RicKii``

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Jul 10, 2005
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what do you guys do to remove stubborn bolts? im trying to remove my rear suspension atm...the eyelet bolt is in the stupidiest spot, cant fit a breaker bar in there and air gun wont fit. CC and CE models are so much easier to remove.
ive wd-40'ed the nut but it wont come off at all....stressed out hard hahaha
what else can you guys suggest? im guessing it has never been touched since factory..20years ago..lol
 
Elbow grease. Sca sell it in a small bottle. Still trying to get that bolt off. What if u put a spanner on it. And then got a huge pole that the spanner will fit in so u have The leverage
 
Loctite free & release has spray worked pretty well for me in these situations, but it's not like WD-40, you gotta you like 1/4 a can sometimes for real stubborn ones lol
It also kills spiders instantly haha
I guess it's a bit expensive for the latter use though. :p
 
I feel ya pain!!

Try doing a rear diff without removing the rear cradle with the bolts between the boot floor and the diff itself!

I'd try:
Finding a spanner that fits (ring). You may need to get a curved type or some special angle that suits your vehicle. Either that or get a spanner use a large pole.
Another neat trick just to break the initial tension is to get a spanner on it and give it a good tap with a hammer. Even attempt to tap the bolt / nut a few times with a hammer to possibly loosen it in the thread.

Good luck mate.
 
Buy a mini blow torch (Bunnings for $40, very useful for a workshop), heat it up, tap it with a hammer to lossen the corrsion, heat it again and quickly get some mad leverage on it. You'll either break it or it will come out. Once it starts moving use some penetrating oil, and work the bolt back and forth till it comes out. If you dont work it it will probably snap or thread.
 
thanks guys for the responses, what ive tried is just soaking in wd40 for the whole day, tried to make it move....she didnt go no where. i might need to do the oxy heat up trick but as its close to brake cables/caliper..might not be a good idea. does anyone want to give it a go? 6 pack on offer in melbourne guyssss!!
 
Heat it up with a mini butane torch. They are cheap as chips to buy.
You could even just rest the wand of the welder on the bolt to get it hot, then try loosening it free.
 
Heat it up with a mini butane torch. They are cheap as chips to buy.
You could even just rest the wand of the welder on the bolt to get it hot, then try loosening it free.

Wow... I like this tip... I had never thot of this for extremely hard to reach locations (welding rod technique).... Love it!

You learn something everyday :D

Definately heating then cooling the bolt will help (cool it with the Loctite free and release)..

In my experience if a bolt wont budge with the aid from the impact of a hammer, Heating, cooling and lubricating the thread (penetrant)... It will probably snap off.
 
I don't understand this welding rod technique?

So is the aim to basically do like a little spot weld on the head of the bolt or something?
It would heat up pretty quickly, I could see how it would work. You've just gotta make sure you don't deposit any metal anywhere other than the centre of the head or you might not be able to get a spanner on it lol.
Have I understood it right? haha I don't think I have. I just don't know how you could touch a welding rod on it without depositing more metal.
It would be tough to do this on a nut though, unless it was a massive nut or something lol

What would be funny (or a massive kick in the face if it was yourself :p) if someone were to accidentally weld the fastener to whatever it's threaded into hahaha.
 
Could have edplained it better lol

Use the tungsten tip (tig) on top of the bolt without using a filler rod, it should heat up the bolt enough to turn, if not..... ur fugged
 
"Penetrene" works good.At my work as a maintenance fitter everything i have to do is rusted solid,Try shocking it with a hammer, e.g hit the top of the bolt with a hammer and punch ,use a punch smaller than the flats of the bolt head so you dont flare them.Then if you can get only get a ring spanner on the bolt use it then use a second spanner ring end to lock on the open jaws of the first spanner for an instant breaker bar."does that make sense to you"
 
I was referring to a stick welder, can still be done, just need to be more careful :)
 
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