I'm looking for some direction...

[dvscoupe]

Hi all,

Basically in a nut shell I believe the turbo is toast on the EVO so I'm looking at getting some work done to the car.

Ok, what I want is fairly good response with strong mid and high end power with keeping the drivability of what i have right now.

Below is a list of other stuff that will be getting done...


Camshafts

1-TX264 Camshaft Set

Manufacturer ( Kelford Camtech )
264/260 Duration, 11.00/10.35mm Lift. Street / Strip cams 300-500hp range.

For full technical specifications and a printable
Cam Card, select the link below.

http://www.camshaftshop.co.nz/index.php/EVO-1-3-4G63-VR4/1-177-B-Camshaft/camshaftshop_view.tpl.html



Valve Spring and Retainer Kit

Brian Crower DSM/EVO 4G63 Valve Spring and Retainer Kit [BC0100]

Designed for high rpm, BC valve springs are wound from only the highest grade, super clean, chrome silicone alloy and feature proprietary processing procedures for consistent pressures. BC titanium retainers are CNC machined from 6AL4V round bar titanium to exacting tolerances.

Kit# BC0100 Spring# BC1100 Retainer# BC2100 Description: Single spring, titanium retainer.

Spring Pressure:
BC1100 Seat: 1.550" @ 84 lbs / Open: 1.000" @ 235 lbs / Coil Bind: 0.935" (no machine work required)



Cam Gears

I have no idea. Please help me here....

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Mitsubishi/EVO/Engine/Cam_Gears



Turbo

Once again no idea here either, all I know is that I want it to bolt straight onto my factory manifold. My options are: -

EVO 2 TD05-16G
EVO 3 TD05-16G
EVO 3 TD05-20G (I beleive this would be a good overall turbo for the 2.0 litre)
EVO 3 TD06SL2-20G



ECU


My factory ECU will be getting a flash tune - Tuner Pro Software



Injectors


What ever is required, prob be looking at 800cc I assume



I'm looking for releastic genuine feedback on my choices above

Thanks in advance
Dion

 

[GROOV3]

i have a TD05-20g and when it was a 2lt its was quite drivable. You did have to rev it to keep in boost but i was running std cams etc.

I think it was about 4500 ish full boost.

definantly quite responsive though.

was running 510cc injectors, walbro pump, 21psi ish making just over 200kws in a pretty loose engine.

 

[milkandoj]

I have a bastard evo1 turbo with a compressor wheel that measures slightly bigger than a 20g, so its like a evo3 20g in a way. Bit random but does the job. I went from a 14b to this turbo and no complains in tearms of drivability so going from a 16G is less of a step.
15psi by ~3500-3700 cant remember (been off the rd for a while). So exprect 20psi by 3800- 4000?? like groov3 said.
It has a nice gradual pull and isnt anything like light switch BB turbos that start to spool up at like 4200.
Better feel than the smaller 14b that a stock vr4 has, that hit... then nothing.
To punch out of round abouts or tight corners in second sometimes it will be building still if you dont commit in and keep the revs up i agree. For me i wouldn want bigger to be compleatly drivable.
I havent felt an E316g, just my 2c what a td05 20g would feel like.

EDIT. Wouldnt standard cams bring the turbo on quicker?
Bigger cams that arnt dialed in correctly sometimes make turbos more lazy to spool. This can be fixed with dialing them in though i believe. If you actually dial them in properly or just expreiment following the guidelines for what + or - on each cam does is up to you i guess. IM going to do the later using my butt dyno.
Cam gears, the fidanza's i recently got look good quality for what you pay. And on other peoples cars the annodising on the teath hasnt worn out like some other brands do. Other guys on here and dsm sites are happy with unorthdox, skunk2, new style aem. Dont buy the cheap shit.
Thats the limits of my opinion/knowledge for now.

 

[EVOCPE]

I would go a Kelfoed 272/272 combo
Performance springs heavy duty springs and retainers
Fidanza, Skunk2 or unorthadox cams are best bang for buck
EVO3 TD05 with 20G wheel
Chippin the ECU is fine but they can only handle to an extent
800cc is too big IMHO, i would look for either Sard 700cc, or even the EVO 560cc will do

 

[CLuTZ]

EVO 560cc's will be fine. Even if they're not, grab an adj FPR and turn up the base pressure.

I'd personally go for the TD06 25g

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger...s?hash=item3ef4fb29f0&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116


Just remember- do it once, and do it properly.

 

[shadow]

EVO 3 TD06SL2-20G - I have one of these for sale too if your interested.

 

[Dean]

Smaller Injectors definitely as mentioned.
And id probably recommend an aftermarket ECU. Better engine management capabilities, will help you get the most out of your system.
Just depends how much you want to spend really.

 

[EVO-00X]

Dion, 264 cams will be fine for what you are after as I know you want to circuit the car and have some fun in it. They offer better top end than stock cams and provide more lift and duration. Its good to see you are upgrading the valvesprings and retainers as well (something some guys fail to do when raising the rpm limit).

Its important to match the cams to the turbo you want to use. A TD05 20G (with 070 rear) might not be the best for use in the rpm and boost range you're going for so stepping up just above this would be better, and if going forged internals later it will provide scope for more boost for 21-24psi. I reckon something like a TD06 compressor cover with 20G wheel. This would be a great turbo for use on street and track and better for more top end. Obviously the Garrett BB turbos and merge collector manifolds will provide better spool and efficiency but the $$ side of it is much more expensive.

800cc injectors is way too much. The larger EVO 560cc or better yet Sard 600cc will be the way to go. An aftermarket fuel pressure regulator wont be required IMO as the stock FPR is a damn good unit and rarely fails, even with a Walbro behind it for the sort of power you will be aiming for (somewhere between 210-250kw atw, which the higher end of the figure will get you around the 11.5 second range). I've seen tuners still keep stock FPR's on cars 250-280kw atw so it will be fine.

Camgears is nothing much, same ol' same ol'... just ensure you stay away from the dodgey AEM ones and cheap Chinese imports, and try to get a hold of a set with a couple of degrees adjustment and 5 bolts keeping it in place lol.

If a flash tuned ECU is going to suit your needs then fair enough. It pays to weigh up how many times you're going to be modding and adjusting things and retuning your car to suit. IMO the Haltech E6X and E8 these days with EVO I-III plug in patch loom are a damn good investment and excellent value for $$$. These things have dropped hundreds of dollars lately.

 

[zen4G63]

new haltech platumin sport 1000, autronic SM4 or motec M400
are the way to go with engine management system,
would be one of the best u could use, cost is bit up there but u get what u pay for.

 

[brisvr4]

Personally I am running a PTE 50trim turbo. Bolts up to the manifold with no problems and will get you a nice tidy power figure with good spool.
I get 30spi at just over 4000 with a stock bottom end and 272 BC cams.

As far as management goes you might want to also have a look at dsmlink. It utilizes your stock ecu but allows you full access to all the load cells for fine tuning and will be full speed denstiy soon. Thomas is working on a version for the Evo1-3 atm.
With the 50 trim and 800cc Sards I was looking at around 75% duty at 27psi. I'd stick with the 800's as you shouldn't need to change again for a while.
I only got rid of mine and went with my 1450's because I changed to E85.

 

[ENGINR]

Shadow's 20G turbo, 560cc injectors, 264/264 cams, decent adjustable cam gears and your chipped ECU will easily see you at 200kw without sacrificing driveability.

You won't need an aftermarket FPR, probably fitting a Walbro or Bosch fuel pump wouldn't hurt.