is my clutch going?

[lancerevo92]

so, yet another problem. i finally got my controller fixed, it working properly....but in 5th gear i noticed if i floor it at like 3200 rpm, the turbo spools up quick, and so does the rpms, yes the rpms (back up to 1.2 bar now) it doesn't do this in any other gear, just 5th...and it seems to be getting worse. the pedal travel on the clutch is, from the pedal to the floor, about 4/5 th's to the pedals resting position the clutch engages. just to confirm, is my clutch going? and if so can a mechanically inclined person replace a clutch in these cars?

 

[tUfRiCe]

if its ure clutch youd most likely have the issue all through the gears...
as for replacing parts will need to be machined and what not...no other way to know if you can do than givin it a shot

 

[lancerevo92]

i thought replacing a clutch was striaght forward? what has to be machined? Any idea why is only does this in 5th? i checked my fluid today, it was milky with some black residue, i sucked out the resevoir flushed it with new stuff, but i did'nt bleed the lines out. could this be my problem? at 1.2 bar, i'd figure the clutch would slip in the lower gears rather than 5th, does'nt make sense to me

 

[tUfRiCe]

exactly lower gears ud expect... definately bleed it... fly wheel will need maching you have to drop the gear box etc do a search for clutch replacement u will find heaps of walk throughs tips etc

 

[GIMQIK]

i just had my clutch replaced not long ago.. it started out doing it it 5th and by the time i got it changed it was almost not drivable that was over about a month..

 

[lancerevo92]

what kinda clutch can i get for this? can it be cross refrenced with an eclipse or talon? check out summitracing.com http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...+115&Ne=100010&NeXID=100010&Ntk=KeywordSearch
i am looking for something that will last me a long time, and as a kit. Please any input is needed, it will take me a week to get it, and prolly a week after that to get it put in, if i got that much time left (daily driver)

cross refrenced eagle talon tsi AWD clutch kit, will this work? http://store.summitracing.com/partd...871099+4294900154+4294924927+115&autoview=sku

this one from ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....s=algo=SI&its=I%2BIA&itu=IA%2BUCI&otn=4&ps=42

 

[Sloth]

You need to know roughly what power you've got, how you drive, and how you want the clutch to feel and act.

- Hard take-offs, or "sensible"?
- Sudden engagement, or smoother?
- Standard(ish) pedal pressure or harder?

- Pressure plate will determine the pedal pressure and power handling.
- Clutch face (button or not) will determine aggresiveness of engagement.
- Clutch centre (sprung or not) will help determine "smoothness".

This is only a rough guide.

I personally use (& recommend) Exedy. The kits have all the bits you need (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, spigot bearing if needed). The heavy duty series has a higher rated pressure plate, but feels barely heavier that standard. You can choose the type of clutch disc (organic or button, sprung centre or solid).

Get flywheel machined (or kill your new clutch.)
Also check the pivot ball for the clutch fork, if worn can play merry hell - can't get clutch to engage/disengage properly. Worth replacing (cheap from Mitsi dealer).

While you are in there, the rear main seal should be checked and replaced if any signs of leak. Easy to do, and cheap insurance.

 

[lancerevo92]

i want the occaisionaly hard take off (like once a week)
more of a smooth engagement
almost stock pedal pressure (stiffer doesn't matter)

i have approx 290-330 hp and about the same torque (running 1.2 bar)
and how hard is it for the average joe with good mechanical skills to install a new clutch? (time)
what dimensions do i need to get?

 

[Sloth]

Exedy HD organic. any good clutch specialist can look up the part numbers.

need to remove front driveshafts, tailshaft, then transfer case to get at the gearbox. remove gearbox (F@#$ing heavy) to expose clutch. undo pressure plate bolts, remove pressure plate and clutch disc. remove flywheel for inspection (for cracks, blueing) & machining. check rear main seal on engine, replace if needed. replace flywheel, preferably with new bolts. torque to spec. mount clutch disc & pressure plate, with bolts loose enough to move disc. align spline with spigot - this has to be near perfect (10ths of a mm) or you won't be able to remount gearbox. tighten pressure plate bolts to spec.

in the gearbox housing, remove the release bearing (check the way the mounting spring is set). clean it up (brake cleaner is good). lube spline and shaft with a light smear of high temp high pressure grease. install release bearing.

now you can replace gearbox (easier said than done), then transfer case, tailshaft and driveshafts.

I have done clutches on lots of cars, and many VR4s.

In the workshop I would allow half to 1 day, using a hoist - assuming I had all the parts, and could get the flywheel machined & returned on the same day.

Allow a weekend to be safe.

 

[mattrat]

sloth funny you say about that clutch disc spline alignment. 1st time i did it by hand got it spot on, 2nd time bahah not so lucky and took 40 minutes of wrigling around to pop it on ahha..
moral (get the spline lined up)

 

[lancerevo92]

the evo 1-3 manuals provided on this site, is it enough info to do the install? and what tranny is in these cars? (manual number)

 

[youda]

The passanger side cv shaft does not have to come off, it will slide off with the gearbox. the job would take at least two days on jack stands with a carton of piss and some friends to laugh at you.

if you want a full write up pm me or 3zercrowd. lots of experience unfortunetly.

 

[lancerevo92]

so i went ahead and bought a ACT HD street clutch kit, and Gates racing Timing belt, getting it all done at the mitsubishi dealership. $880 to install clutch and supply rear main seal, $928 for the timimg belt, and they are gonna replace all the pulleys, tensioners and seals. Costly!

 

[lancerevo92]

HOLY CRAP! Just had the clutch replaced, and had them give me back the old one for observation. It has 'DK' tradmark on both the pressure plate and clutch disc, and it was a 3 pad design. The fricking pads on the pressure plate side was down to the metal, and scoured a bunch of grooves on the pressure plate, the flywheel side was almost to the metal, so it was like 3/16th of an inch thick!!! it's ammazing how i still managed to get to work (80kms a day) for 2 1/2 weeks on it when it started. i'll post pics tommorow. the new clutch engages at about 1 1/2 inches off the floor, stalled it twice trying to pull it out of the dealer lot. LOL

Any idea who makes these clutches? i googled it but nothing came up, it's made in japan too.

 

[rob323]

DK is Daiken.
If the clutch engages down near the floor, then you need to get under the dash and adjust the pushrod on the clutch master cylinder. Refer to VFAQ for a how to.

 

[lancerevo92]

Check out how worn this is

^^If you look through the hole where the clutch pad is, you can see how much pad was left on the flywheel side. Although the tip was down to the metal, seemed the clutch plate was either warped or it had a little angle on it as it goes to the center.

Even as toated as this looks, i was still able to launch the car. But i could only push ever so slightly on the throttle in 5th to accelerate before it would slip.