Meek ECU chip

[FRANK-E]

or just chasing the 'wank factor' of saying "I got a Haltech or Motec (or whatever)" then an aftermarket is probably more the go.

bwaaaahahahahahahahaha

 

[BMGTZ]

[
Are you using a Ochrich ? and TunerPro RT ?[/quote]

yerp i am

Jon[/quote]

wondered if the information found at this link would help in tuning using an ostrich

http://www.lancer-evo.net/community...cu-tuning-no-more-s-out-window-check-out.html

moates were not able to offer advice on software etc So I went looking and this popped up

brian

 

[WADADLIG_EVO]

Boost cut

From my understanding, it removes the factory boost cut, speed cut, more aggressive timing, and higher rev limit.

I've asked elsewhere but just want to know if you know it since it's mentioned here but what is the factory Boost cut set at?

I think I hit it the other night but my boost gauge I think is faulty and is only showing 15psi.

WADAD

 

[grngsr]

Anyone have any comments on the powerchip available for the gsr??

 

[lozza]

Anyone have any comments on the powerchip available for the gsr??

There is still a common misunderstanding regarding "chips" (for those who know the basics you can tune out here)

There are those such as mentioned by JStyle - these can be tuned for fuel and ignition in "realtime" and are economical and keep factory sensors/settings.

Then there are generic "chips" that get written in an office in ?? and installed in the factory ECU by companies that do f***all R & D (eg powerchip). Companies like powerchip write the software without actually testing it in most cars. All they do it take factory settings, lean it out a bit here, add a bit off ignition timing there - it is a f***in joke!

Powerchip should not even be mentioned in this thread
- they are not the same as EPROM emulators such as Ostrich!

You cannot buy a chip from someone already written and expect your car to run with optimum power and economy. (read again what ENGINR said - that's exactly what I'm talking about, although the product allows realtime tuning it was installed by guessing fuel/ignition).

The only way is to have a chip or aftermarket ECU installed and have it tuned properly is in "realtime". That is - you can have it loaded up and tuned on a dyno or on the street up a long gradual hill. Obviously, on the street is dangerous, you will need a laptop, wideband O2 with your mate driving. You have to try and hold a certain load at each rpm increment while you adjust the fuel and ignition timing. You can do the set-up at home/on the street and low load (then extrapolate) and then finish it off using a tuner on the dyno. It will only take 2 hrs on the dyno for a decent dune if you set up everything else (low load, idle, cruise, decel, etc)

You can always tell if a car has a shit tune - there is black crap all around the exhaust, rich as hell from either FPR overrun or dodgy idle, too low AFR etc

Phew, now that I have finished ranting - I hope I have helped at least one person from going cheap on the most important part of their car upgrade- the TUNE.

A good tuner (and machinist) are worth every cent you pay them!

Cheers