Microtech LT10s vs Haltech E6x i have both which is better

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blackers10

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Nov 15, 2009
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Hello All,

As a few of you know I have 2 GSRs of OK condition but building 1x good one from the parts (Got ripped off on one and the other I purchased knowing it wasnt 100% but could be made good.)

I have a Microtech LT10s with a pretty crappy tune it made 160hp at the tyres apparently and from the feel/information I have about the car (currently in the running car with 550cc injectors,unsure of pump, td04 on 15psi approx(have to change actuator as it has a dodgy one on from prev owner that was causing huge overboost may be off a truck as he was a diesel fitter)
It has a hand controller and has been hard wired in as Microtech doesn't make a patch loom

In the other car (blown motor)
I have a Haltech E6X with a good tune(made 185kw at the tyres on 20psi(prev owner provided sheets and lots of receipts) with big injectors,walbro 255 pump,td05,big cooler etc
The Haltech is a plug in loom for the GSR + the auxillary sensors they require patched in etc (map sensor in the intake rather than a AFM etc)

Which is going to be better for the GSR
I have no problem running the wiring etc or ripping the Microtech loom to pieces and rejoining everything(Can safely say it was hacked a bit by the look)

The Haltech loom looks pretty simple to work out etc.

option 3 is pull the ENTIRE engine loom from the haltech equiped car and put it in the Microtech car(unsure how difficult this mission could be??)

The driving force between the swap is the Haltech is already tuned for all the mods I can bolt onto the other car so can just plug and get a dyno run for a check and be on my way with good HP and the wiring will all be swaped etc so should be safe and nothing dodgy

Thanks in advance for any input
 
Who ever is the best tuner you have access to? Its a case of an aftermarket ecu is only as good as its tuner.

I would be leaning towards the Haltec for simply "A plug and play Patch loom" to go into factory ecu plug would be available saves chopping hacking oem wiring looms which I'm against strongly.(I have had to RESTORE quite a few cars back to oem looms becuase of the car has had more issue's that it was worth due to spliced in looms for aftermarket ecu's.

Trying to cut corners to save you time or a few coins, is also against what I stand for! what for the cost of a tune , do it right and do it once
9 times out of ten when trying to save time or a little cash ends up costing you more in coin and time at the end of the day.

I know what I would do with this answer/direction thats an easy 1.

GL with your decision!
 
Without looking at the features etc, I would automatically say Haltech based on brand name and general function.

Microtech's are great for WOT tuning. AKA Micro-tap (as in on/ off water tap). Micro-crap.

But in saying that, they do run in alot of fast cars! Most being rotors.

Haltech's seem to be more like wolfs. They are a good value unit but require quite a bit of dyno time to tune. Plus plug and play is always good!
 
It's not fun that's for sure. But it can be done mate.

It's definately worth the effort to swap for the e6x, the e6x is an amazing unit to work with. I absolutely fucking hated working with a microtech on the SAE cars, we ended up changing the ECU over to a haltech and got rid of at least 7 residual issues just with an ecu swap.

Mind you there are plenty of peple using microtechs with good results... they are just generally driving EFI fitted old v8's or rotors. I don't think a microtech's operation is really suited to our vehicles as the tuning points are spaced too far apart. (From memory they are every 75rpm as opposed to haltechs 25rpm).
 
Vote 1 for the Haltech. I've tuned them all from Motec thru to microtech ( and rechipped/reflashed stock ECU's) . I've been using haltech since the early 90's and have found Haltech excellent in all regards, especially when comparing tuning resolution compared to Microtech. Fuel economy and driveability have been far easier to achieve with Haltech, especially if closed loop is enabled with the Oxygen sensor. I've yet to meet to many tuning colleagues that would voluntarily use a microtech on their own road car( as against a WOT race car).

In saying all that.... these days with easy access to rewriting stock ecu's, I am loathe to fit an aftermarket ecu if I can retain the stock ecu. The stock ecu remapped has by far given the best results in driveability , cold starts and resistance to detonation dramas by retaining the standard knock sensor.
 
haha I don't have a tuner yet..
just thinking if the haltech is the better product then why use a microtech.

plus I should be able to put on the bolt ons and go from there (with a slight retune for the differences in motor etc..where as with the microtech ill need all new tune)
 
mirotech are good for rotaries due to the fact they dont have the fine adjustments for transient throttle and idle compensation, Chook motors just need fuel and ignition basics , pistons need fuel control refinement if you are going to use it as an everyday car - go the Haltech
 
I wouldn't use either, cause as BlackVR mentioned, that don't recognise any knock sensors. Unless you like rebuilding engines and replacing head gaskets that is.
 
I would agree! (with rob) I have an E8 haltech and it is a bit of screwing around to get anytype of knock sensor input then the ability to do something with is another game!

Go for DSM link or IPVEC <- something like that

as they utilise the factory knock sensor.

JetGSR
 

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