Opinions on oils

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Gianni

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2008
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Location
Melbourne
So interested in peoples opinions on different oils for a ggsr. What do u guys reckon is best to use. Shell mobile valvoline Caltex ect. And what visc and stuff too. I think inhave caltex gtx or something ATM.
 
I have always used penrite hpr 15.never changed lifters yet ,so both my vr4 motors lifter are over 300,000km old and no ticking at all.even when i pulled my first vr4 motor down for a rebuild at 250,000km the main bearings werent bad.and the MG with the vr4 motor still has original tdo5h 14b turbo after 300,000km.maybe im lucky?
i am even slack and only change my oil at 10,0000km or yearly.
 
The "ideal" oil depends on how many kilometres your motors has done and what bearing clearances it has.
My general rule of thumb - buy semi-decent stuff and change it and the filter regularly (5-10k kms), and don't skimp on the filters (ie. don't buy valvoline or supercheap's no name ones.)
 
I use Elf full syn 15 w 45 ,in the evo seems to be the goods , I dont get any tappet noises , and I use a Ralliart filter also

on the normal cars I use 15 w 50 Mitsubishi oil mineral ( $32 for 5ltrs ) ( castrol/BP) but always go for genuine filters , even the Jag gets the $7 sump plug washer

Ive also used Catrol edge , and really like it , I think the cordia will be getting that oil
 
I'm on amsoil here. Plus one of their filters. Expensive but working well for what we built the engine to do.
 
I do get a bit of ticking a often. Insure I need to re do spacings on my valves. Need a big tune up I think. Who is good in melbs at that and can come to u
 
depends where you are but this guy is also mobile

http://www.4gtuner.com/index.php?/topic/14698-great-mechanic/
 
I do get a bit of ticking a often. Insure I need to re do spacings on my valves. Need a big tune up I think. Who is good in melbs at that and can come to u
There are no tappets to adjust, the lash adjusters are hydraulic. A tune up is not going to fix it.
 
Hmmm. It's like a ticking noise. What could the cause be. It's conning from left cylinder I think
 
So ggsr loggers on eBay. Where else is good to get them. I should do cams at same time. What else should I do whilst I'm doing those
 
my rule of thumb is the lower the first number in the viscosity rating the better and try to get the same second viscosity number as OEM, ie if the manufacturer said to use a 15W40 I would get a 10W40 or a full synthetic 0W40.
The defence between a full synthetic oil, a semi synthetic oil and a normal minal oil is that a full synthetic oil’s base oil (the oil they start with, before they add any additives) is man made, and is more pure then the stuff that comes out of the ground (minal oil), semi synthetic's oil is a mix of the two.

The other thin to look at is the API ratting (normally on the bottom of the front label). It's basically a grade given to it (by passing a sears of tests) to tell you how good it is, it's normally SM for petrol or CH for Diesel. The SM is a petrol ratting and a lower second letter means it is of a lower grade, ie SJ because J comes before M in the alphabet. the CH is a Diesel ratting and basically the same thing as the petrol one expect starts with a C and sometimes ends with a -4 ie CI-4.

I don't clam to know much about filters but as others have said use a good one, OEM is your best bet but ryco clam to be better im not convinced ive had a bit to do with trucks and they all sware by Donaldson.

a nuther thing to add is you can use a diesel oil in a petrol engine, but it will pick up all the shit in the engine and dump it in the filter and it will start bypassing (the theory is bad oil is better then on oil) quit quickly. It’s a good way to clean out engines if you change the oil filter every day.


PS: sorry about any spelling mestakes, i did put it throgh a spell check before i posted it.
 
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